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London Fashion Week Men's: day one buyer diary

Crut men ss19 0286

On the first full day of London Fashion Week Men’s spring 19 edition, Harvey Nichols’ menswear buyer Danielle Grantham shares her thoughts on the collections and trends to note.

danielle grantham menswear buyer harvey nichols2

danielle grantham menswear buyer harvey nichols2

Danielle Grantham, menswear buyer, Harvey Nichols

Friday night saw Italian brand Iceberg make the jump from Milan to London Fashion Week Men’s, as the brand’s British born creative director James Long bought came “back home” for spring 19. Following that, LFWM kicked off in earnest on Saturday 9 June, with newcomer, and Drapers 30 under 30 alumnus Daniel Fletcher opened the first full day of shows with his first full catwalk show.

The day showcased a duality in London’s designers, with Edward Crutchley, E.Tautz, Qasimi and Oliver Spencer’s sophistacated, elegant designs contrasting to the playful,  streetwear style of brands such as Liam Hodges, John Lawrence Sullivan and Matthew Miller. Luxury department store Harvey Nichols’ menswear buyer Danielle Grantham shares her thoughts on the day.

fletcher

fletcher

Daniel Fletcher, spring 19

Why do you come to LFWM?

London kicks off the season and sets the tone for what’s to come. It’s great to get an early impression and spend a couple of days supporting our city and home grown talent.

How was today at LFWM?

It was certainly busy; despite a shorter schedule this season, attendance was high and there was a great atmosphere.

What collections stood out from today? 

Oliver Spencer is always a favourite of mine and did not disappoint again this season.

Oliv men ss19 0124

Oliv men ss19 0124

Oliver Spencer spring 19

The combination of lightweight fabrics and an organic colour palette are a perfect pairing for spring and summer, and maintains the romantic handwriting Oli has established across all collections. It felt particularly romantic and I was even fortunate enough to take away a bouquet of wildflowers.

What other brands are you looking forward to later this season? 

I’m excited to see the collection from Christopher Raeburn this season, he always offers something special. Nichols Daley’s autumn 18 presentation was particularly memorable, and it’ll be great to see how he follows up for spring 19.

Are there any trends emerging from the collections so far?

With trans-seasonal product becoming more relevant, I find that we see less of particular themes and colour stories but it will be interesting to see what does come from this season.

With the shorter schedule, do you think LFWM is still an important event for buyers? 

Regardless of the big name exits, for us LFWM is still relevant as it showcases local talent and it’s an important platform that highlights emerging brands.

Do you have a preference for shows or presentations? What do you take from both? 

I don’t have a preference, however I do enjoy the relaxed environment of a presentation and the opportunity you have to take a little more time to appreciate the product.

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