Harvey Nichols menswear buyer Olly Smith shares his top brands and highlights from the final day of London Fashion Week Men’s autumn 18 shows.
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olly smith, buyer at harvey nichols
After Cottweiler caused a stir on day one and day two was headlined by the exuberant London protégée Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, the final day at LFWM presented a melange of established names and new faces. The agenda setting Craig Green opened the day with a dramatic warehouse presentation, followed by a catwalk debut for design duo Blood Brother and a jazz quartet in a church, decked out by Nicholas Daley. Drapers caught up with Harvey Nichols menswear buyer Olly Smith to hear his highlights from the day.
Nicholas Daley autumn 18
Why do you attend LFWM?
I attend LFWM to get an early gauge on what we can expect for the upcoming autumn 18 season from both established and up and coming brands.
How was today at LFWM?
There were a lot of interesting brands showing today so I was keen to see what would be on show. Plus a Monday out of the buying office is a rarity.
I was excited to see how the Blood Brother boys would put together their first show, plus the presentations from emerging talents Nicholas Daley and Paria Farzaneh were bound to be immersive experiences and they definitely delivered.
What collections stood out today?
As mentioned, Blood Brother did not disappoint. To be honest, if you start with a soundtrack of Madonna’s “Lucky Star” and finish with “Oi” by More Fire Crew, you’re in for a good time. Snake prints, zebra furs and neon isn’t an obvious combo, much like the songs. but everything came together marvellously.
Paria Farzaneh autumn 18
Home-grown talent Nicholas Daley also pulled together a crop of the UK’s most talented jazz players for his presentation, which was a deeply moving audio and visual experience.
Last but certainly not least, emerging talent Paria Farzaneh showed that we better keep paying attention to what the UK has to offer in terms of young designers. Paria has an exceptional talent for mixing both Western and Iranian culture in her collections, and a little Persian restaurant was the perfect back drop for her first presentation. Big things are coming from this young lady.
What other collections have stood out to you at LFWM?
We’ve enjoyed a strong autumn 17 from Cottweiler in store, and the autumn 18 collection also proved strong. The Natural History Museum’s fossil room also served as a perfect introduction to the brands first use of leather, alongside the technical features we expect from the brand.
What are some of the trends, colours or themes that have stood out this season?
I think each person in attendance can take away something different. No real strict trends stood out to me, and I find that extremely refreshing.