Everyone knows London’s got talent, but with so many up-and-coming labels to choose from at LFW, which should you check out? Here’s six to start with…
Not everything is what it seems with Central Saint Martins graduate Faustine Steinmetz, a rising star who focuses as much on the fabric as the shape and cut - spinning, dyeing and weaving all her own fabrics. “We use old artisan techniques to recreate garments that would normally be made using industrial techniques,” she explains. A case in point is her version of standard denim jeans reinvented in new and unusual textiles such as a handwoven mohair.
|Presentation: the ICA at 10.30am to 12.30pm on September 12 |
Exhibition: All week, west wing, ground floor, Somerset House
Born in Rome, based in Milan but showing in London, Flavia La Rocca’s eponymous brand merges an innovative concept, ethical processes and Italian craftsmanship. La Rocca says: “[The brand is] modular because all the collections are built on the modular concept, where clothes are composed of interchangeable modules that, through the use of hidden zippers, can be detached and mixed together.” Despite this approach of a never-ending wardrobe of combinations, the individual pieces are strong enough to stand alone. “The brand is also sustainable, because all pieces are made of recycled, regenerated, organic or natural fabrics, while everything is made in Italy with high quality,” says the designer.
|Exhibition: all week in the Designer Showrooms at Estethica, Somerset House |
Having caught Drapers’ eye with her graduate collection at the London College of Fashion last year, Tokyo-born Keiko Nishiyama makes her post-university debut as part of LFW’s off-schedule event, the Ones to Watch show at Fashion Scout.Her innovative use of print and pattern in her graduate collection breathed new life into the now perennial summer staple of florals, so her first full collection is brimming with promise.”My brand is especially particular about both delicate textile and detail, inspired by Japanese and European-British culture,” says Nishiyama. “This season I was intrigued by aquariums, and the collection’s icon is the mermaid.”
|Show: part of Ones to Watch at Freemason’s Hall, 1.30pm on September 12 |
One of the most hotly tipped emerging designers of the season and a recipient of Topshop’s Newgen sponsorship for the first time this year, Dublin-born Danielle Romeril offers a modern take on relaxed, feminine dressing in interesting and innovative fabrics. “It’s vibrant, sporty-meets-feminine womenswear,” says Romeril of her namesake brand. “This season the collection is inspired by a wild camping trip I took in the Wicklow mountains in Ireland. While gathering firewood to cook my breakfast I imagined a girl gang living in the wilderness in an idyllic summer. “There are lots of utilitarian references evident in the clothes, and there is a very defined silhouette which is something new for me.”
|Presentation: Somerset House at 1.30pm to 3.30pm on September 13|
Design duo Kim Trager and Lowell Delaney make elegant yet effortless womenswear, or “understated, thoughtful luxury” as they put it. “This season we were inspired by rural Russia and the idea of finding beauty in the most ordinary,” says Delaney. “We brought together a slightly psychedelic vision of normality, the idea of looking into what we would normally take for granted.” This is translated into silhouettes of long, uncomplicated lines mixed with a feminine military feel for spring.
Presentation: Vinyl Factory Space, 2.30pm to 4.30pm on September 12
Created by trained artist and former Donna Karan designer Negarin Sadr, this eponymous womenswear label is “fresh, playful, minimal and transitional”, according to the woman herself.The easy and wearable shapes have an effortless feel that will appeal to a broad range of ages and tastes, focusing on silk shirts and outerwear as the brand’s signature pieces. For spring the collection comes with miniature collars for a clean look and fresh pleated panels, alongside cap-sleeved dresses in soft pastel shades and a co-ordinating skirt, top and blazer jacket set, featuring a fresh yet subtle version of printed stripes.
|Exhibition: all week, south wing, first floor, Somerset House |