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London Fashion Week: the buyer's view, day one

Machine A founder and buying director Stavros Karelis analyses the first day of LFW, revealing his highlights and new labels to know.

Stavros karelis crop

Stavros karelis crop

What do you come to LFW expecting to find?

For me it is important for me to come and check what all the London brands are doing, particularly because a big number of the brands we stock show here. So it’s very important for me in that sense. But I also want to check the progress of all London’s new designers.

London is very much about new and emerging designers for us, and for most people who come here I think. People still come to London specifically for the new designers and the creative ideas that they don’t find them in any other cities.

Jaku rtw ss17 0255

Jaku rtw ss17 0255

Marta Jakubowski spring 17

What did you think of today at LFW?

It’s the first day of fashion week, so it’s an adjustment day. You know certain moods and trends will dominate the whole season, but London has such an individuality and an independent spirt – brands that showed today like Ryan Lo, Ashley Williams, Sadie Williams and Marta Jakubowski, they have their own spirt and they stay true to that and it’s great. They believe in what they do, they know they need something unique and that’s what they stick to, and that’s what I enjoy the most about them. They are set their own trends.

Rylo rtw ss17 0443

Rylo rtw ss17 0443

Ryan Lo spring 17

Which shows stood out today?

Marta Jakubowski – I’ve known her since she graduated from the Royal College of Art in London. We did an immediate collaboration. I really enjoyed her presentation today. There was a real growth. She played with colours, beautiful silhouettes, and understanding all body shapes. It was a great collection for her.

Aries – they showed a film today as part of London Fashion Week– they are already doing an amazing job and what they do is so unique. Skate brands are always dominated by menswear brands but this is so strong in that area. It’s a brand that really champions British youth and the trends in London.

Others like Sadie Williams and Ashley Williams stood out too.

Ashw rtw ss17 0791

Ashw rtw ss17 0791

Ashley Williams spring 17

What new or emerging brands have you got your eye on?

As well as those I’ve already mentioned, someone I really have my eye on is showing on day two of LFW, Paula Knorr. I think she’s one of the most promising young designers. People will pay massive attention to her in the coming seasons.

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