The Topshop Unique show, plus other highlights from day three including Temperley, Topshop Unique and Matthew Williamson
One of the most anticipated shows of the week (partly due to the always expected celeb-spotting from Sir Philip Green’s posse) was Topshop Unique. Of course, we weren’t disappointed, with models including Cara Delevigne, Jourdan Dunn and Lily Donaldson all emerging down the catwalk. Retro sports was the key theme, with colour blocked tennis dresses, sweaters, zip through knits and cropped jackets in bold blues, reds and whites. The show was topped off with sleek monochrome party wear; sheer embellished all-white or black dresses, with floaty hems for a flirty aesthetic. Overall, ideally suited to the brand’s youthful clientele.
Jonathan Saunders took us on a trip to the British Museum for his collection, which drew audible gasps of delight from the watching crowd. Slightly heavier embellished, embroidered and foiled wrap coats and matching trousers were given a lighter feel via a spring palette of bright blues and teals, before fresh summer dresses in lightweight layers emerged. Again, a broad range of ideas were present; from florals to pinstripes, leather to chiffon. A highlight was the high waisted trousers and jackets, which came wrapped with oversized bow ties for a slightly different take on the trend.
A strong range of ideas came through at Temperley London, from mannish tailoring to Japanese kimonos and pretty spring dresses. Gingham made it’s umpteenth appearance of the season, as slouchy trousers or as one of many clashing prints across colourful skirts and dresses. From beachy holiday dresses to sleek tailored city blazers and trenches, the collection had broad appeal and something for every customer.
The light-up fibre optic dress that opened Richard Nicoll’s show signified a new lightness for spring, which evolved into flowing, flyway layers of chiffon and breezy, billowing sheer peeling off relaxed, simple dresses in soft grey, pastel lilac and shimmering silver. Nicoll’s trademark sportiness, normally hard edged, tough and urban, was in a more relaxed and softer mood, with bralets with wrapped and draped panels swishing round the body and oversized knitted jersey, while eveningwear looks were simple yet stylish, skimming the floor with sheer layers and slung from the body using 90s style spaghetti straps.
David Koma is known for his strictly cut, sexy tailored dresses for women who mean business. Spring 15 was no different, but this season his angular lines focused on asymmetric hemlines that were chopped and sculpted around the body, swirling around waists in monochrome black and white panels with flashes of yellow and blue. A wrapped shape gave just enough glimpse of leg as hems of skirts fell around the body, while splices of sheer and strips of sparkling gems created stark graphic lines around tailored tops, skirts and dresses.
Pieces were also cut and spliced at Marios Schwab, where shirt dresses had sheer sections slashed into the shoulders, architectural skirts were cut into leg-revealing wraps and a sandy trench coat was cut in half, creating a cropped mini jacket and matching wrapped skirt.
A colour packed summery show from Matthew Williamson riffed on a glamorous seventies style, with tropical floral and fauna prints, particularly hibiscus leaves, wafting across sexy billowy blouses, swishy wide leg trousers and halter neck party dresses with a focus on pink and blues.
With her signature look falling into fashion’s new favourite trend ‘Normcore’, Margaret Howell’s collection was simplistic and wearable. Tailored linens in the form of blazers, shorts and shirts featured, along with pretty pleated skirts and simple knits, in a toned down palette of beige and monochrome. Although highly commercial and lovely in its minimalism, it did feel somewhat autumnal for a spring collection.
Fluid would be a good word for the Pringle collection, with its aqua and white colour palette and airy appeal. Some clever 3D techniques across separates added interesting stand-out pieces to the sporty range.
Ashley Williams made her solo debut on day three, following three seasons as part of the Fashion East initiative. As always, pop influences appeared on fun intarsia knits, logos etched in delicate beading and printed T-shirts with arms strewn with slogans. Pretty eastern-style mini dresses embellished with oversized rubber brooches and sparkling bra tops added a youthful and kitsch sophistication.