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Menswear Autumn 12

The heritage trend is still strong, with tweeds leading the way. Meanwhile, there is a renewed emphasis on trousers, be they slimmer, wider or in new fabrications.

Barbour

Name Ian Bergin Job title Head of menswear

Design Overall the collections have two key focuses: motorcycling and Barbour’s industrial and country heritage. We take inspiration from our archives and combine that with intelligent updates on fit and styling, while trying to think about what products our founder John Barbour would be designing today.

Fabrics We use Gore-Tex and lightweight membranes as well as traditional wax and quilt to try to provide a contemporary product offer. Interesting new developments include the use of traditional beeswax waxed cotton, which makes the fabric feel tougher and moulds around your body, giving a worn-in fit that is genuinely tailored to you.

Silhouettes Our SL fit products, originally developed for Japan, are classic in their construction but slimmer and more flattering in the way they fit the shoulder and lie close to the body.

Prices As a reflection of rising manufacturing and material costs our prices have risen slightly, but we offer great-quality products for a fair price.

Ben Sherman

Name Mark Williams  Job title Head of design

Design The concept for autumn 12 is a subversive mix of mods and rockers; the two were never meant to mix and we’ve created a premium look where they finally do. This season the collection pushes more into the premium world using directional fabrics with luxury trims.

Fabrics Buffalo and nappa leather feature heavily within key outerwear pieces, while refined iridescent twills, 1,000g meltons and bi-colour canvases trimmed in real shearling all add to the rich mix. For knitwear we blend mohair and wools, merino in extra-fine turtle necks, and 1950s-style flecked yarns.

Silhouettes Biker parkas with buffalo leather sleeves, boxy 1950s ombré shirts and slouchy trousers in Japanese denims and twills are all key. We’ve been doing the skinny pant look now for some time and feel the time is right to look at a fuller trouser.

Prices Prices have seen a slight increase for autumn 12, and are now more consistent with those of our main global competitors.

DS Dundee

Name Marcus Rigg  Job title Designer

Design Drawing inspiration from the rich traditions of rural Scottish outdoor tailoring with references to shooting and Highland walking, we blend these ideas into a modern man’s wardrobe. There is a strong casual addition to this season’s collection including chinos, selvedge denim jeans, outer shirts, polos and sweatshirts.

Fabrics We use tweeds which reflect traditional gentlemen’s sporting pursuits such as fishing and shooting. We’ve also used waxed English cotton fabric and Shetland wools for outerwear.

Silhouettes We keep the cut of our suits slim and clean with a 2sb jacket to maintain a modern look. We’ve introduced a slightly boxy cut standalone unstructured tweed blazer and an A-line wool 3sb overcoat, which update traditional pieces.

Prices We’ve managed to cross-cost and counter-source quite a lot of production which has helped get the prices much keener.

Minimum

Name Henrik Lehn Job title Menswear design manager

Design Autumn 12 leads us back to a more authentic time, inspired by heavier-quality, Native American patterns and a palette of ethnic colours, while the other part of the men’s collection has been inspired by the 1950s New Yorker street look in the style of Mad Men and Pan Am. Corduroy shirts and trousers, wool coats, waistcoats and herringbone-patterned blazers are among the key items for the important masculine 1950s mood.

Fabrics Key fabrics are tweeds with herringbone, plaid or other patterns, heavy twills and Italian lambswool. Our key fabrics can be put together in a complete look, whether smarter or more casual, but most important of all is that the customer gets the feeling of quality.

Silhouettes The offer focuses on a more slim-fitted look, a look Minimum is known for. The fitted items go very well with blazers and bow ties.

Prices We aim to maintain prices, although there might be a small increase due to the rising dollar and fabric prices.

Original Penguin

Name Ann Payne Job title Senior vice-president design and merchandising/creative director

Design Taking inspiration from 1950s American classic film On the Waterfront,  we’ve developed rugged bottoms, chunky-knit jumpers and heavy flannels worn by the dockworkers, contrasted with details of dressy suiting, proper topcoats and more sophisticated shirting from the mobsters who are dressed to kill but look sharp while doing it.

Fabrics I’d say various weights of flannel are the direction for us, although we’re also offering dressed-up dobbies, wool-rich donegals, cavalry twills, cashmere, merino blends and fancy blends, duofold cottons, cords, washed and waxed cotton sateens and garment-dyed canvases. 

Silhouettes Toggle coats and pea coats are a main focus in outerwear, while the shawl collar is still important to us for sweaters and knits. We’re also finding that crew-neck jumpers are taking over in importance from the traditional V-neck.

Prices To be confirmed.

Farah

Name James Pearce-Roberts Job title Head of product

Design Our theme right now is ‘Pioneers’, where each division of the brand reflects an era of pioneering excellence, taking influence from their work as well as their sense of style. The 1950s is back, so I’m backing the printed shirts and boxy wool jackets, while it’s also going to be a big season for grunge-inspired looks so knitwear is set to do well.

Fabrics Everything in the range is lo-tech for autumn 12. Natural fibres play a massive part – merino, lambswool, cotton and leather make up the majority of the range.

Silhouettes The key piece will be the crew-neck knit, be it textured, patterned or plain, as it’s unfussy and easy to wear, plus guys are looking for an alternative to the cardigan which is beginning to look tired.

Prices We’ve worked really hard to keep prices the same, which has been tough.  The areas I’m most pleased with are the knits and coats which, although technically and visually upgraded, are still in line with last autumn.

Merc

Name Eunju MacMahon Job title Head of design

Design We’ve mixed current and upcoming trends with vintage clothing to create styles that are unique and modern, while paying homage to our mod roots. There’s a lot of excitement around our pea coat, waxed parka, and the updated duffle coat, and we’re sure our brushed-cotton shirts will also be popular.

Fabrics Our outerwear will feature waxed cotton while knitwear will include cashmere and angora mixed wool, which feels luxurious to touch. In addition to this we’ve added wonderful textures to the collection in the shape of denim-effect jersey and brushed cotton.

Prices The quality of fabrics this season is based on feedback from our customers, and I’m delighted to say that, through great sourcing efforts, we are able to offer great pricing for our autumn 12 collections.

Luke

Name Luke Roper Job title Creative director

Design The key design themes for autumn 12 are a homage to the style and culture of the early 1980s. Key styling includes tapered drop-crotch chinos teamed with workwear angles on classic Harrington jackets.

Fabrics Mixed fabrications are once again key, seeing cotton twill mixed with 12-gauge knitwear and country checks mixed with nylons, which help the diversity of the collection. Also, new cotton silk polo fabrics give more natural warmth while allowing the skin to breath.

Silhouettes Slim tapering on trousers with a more grown-up drop crotch has widened the denim and chino area and given it a more commercial slant. With the three areas of Luke including the Black Country Overalls denim offer, mainline and limited edition we offer different silhouettes from slim (limited edition) to a looser, more casual look in the denim range.

Prices We’re fighting hard to keep the same pricing architecture for the season but without ever compromising our quality.

Religion

Name Darren Collins Job title Chief executive and creative director (menswear) 

Design We’ve focused more on layering and contrast fabrics throughout a large outerwear offer this season – all classic British coats and jacket shapes with a Religion dark signature. We’ve also expanded our denim range while introducing footwear for the first time for men.

Fabrics Juxtaposing heavy wools with coated cotton or leather on contemporary classic silhouettes is key. Reversed canvas and twills add great texture and interest to our trouser range combined with heavy wash processes. The focus of this season’s knitwear is texture with mohair mixes, bouclé effects and blended yarns giving everyday styles a whole new character.

Silhouettes Skinny jeans are taking more of a focus over the slouchy styles we’ve been doing over the past few seasons. We’ve been perfecting the fits of our oversized T-shirts and our slim fits in the form of deep V-neck shapes while experimenting with varied lengths on T-shirts and knits, which gives the silhouette variation between front and back.

Prices As always, the brand remains committed to the needs of our consumer by continuing to create design-led fashion at affordable prices.

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