Heritage - be it sporting, British or just a trawl through the archives - is the watchword for menswear. Come autumn 10, you won’t just be selling fashion, but a story too.
For autumn 10, Baracuta plunders its heritage archives for inspiration. Delving into its raincoat collection, it has updated the Lancer trench coat and the 1966 classic raincoat, which returns to the collection rendered in the original taupe, red and black plaid. The collection is called The Great Escape, after the classic war movie and military detailing abounds, with epaulettes found on the double-breasted Lancer coat. Classic US sweats, a leather G9 bomber, stay-pressed chinos and a 1940s SAS hooded British smock all feature.
Traditional outdoors fabrics include the British Millerain drywax, corduroy, dogtooth tweeds, leather arm patches, and lightweight quilting. Other key fabrics include the original trench coat fabrics from military suppliers, double faced wools from dogtooth to herringbone, cashmere mixes, as well as lumber jack checks for the highlands, where the red Fraser tartan was originally developed.Some Baracuta classics including the G9 Harrington have been updated using true technical performance fabrics, with taped seams and engineered pockets, all fitted with brightly coloured waterproof double-ended zips.
Thirteen by Daniel Christian
Autumn 10 will see Manchester menswear brand Daniel Christian launch its new grungy, rock-fuelled collection, Thirteen. The collection features embroidered and graphic T-shirts, heavily crystal-embellished styles and distressed prints.
The palette is dark and grungy and silhouettes will be relaxed to chime with an edgy urban feel. Prices will be £22 for hoodies, £13 for T-shirts and £22 for jeans.
For autumn 10, Uschi von Poser, Stones’ head of design, focuses on a cool mix of vintage and smart styles. She says the range is enhanced by a certain vintage look whilst casualwear is slim-lined. Besides tech finishes, corduroy and other velvets play a dominant part. The new palette includes wineberry – which is all shades of a good red wine, blue moon – a bold turquoise, and of course the upcoming colours navy and green.
John Smedley’s autumn 10 menswear is designed to blend well-loved pieces with future classics to create an anthology reminiscent of a passionately compiled archive. The range concentrates on seasonal colours like rich blue, deep purple, dark sea green and caramel combined with key neutrals. A heritage palette of classic charcoal, black, navy, silver, and white runs alongside new additions like rosebud and feather grey and stripes, trim details and block patterns are designed to allow for dramatic combinations of rich hues.
Key pieces include the Frederick cardigan, to be worn like a lightweight jacket, with elongated silhouette and slanted pockets. Draped loosely over a Leander Sea Island cotton shirt, it works as stylish office attire or casual library-chic. New jacket style Harding, comes in a luxurious merino/cashmere blend and creates effortless, understated style.
Circle of Gentlemen
Circle of Gentlemen’s autumn 10 collection will show a larger offering of blazers, knitwear and shirts across menswear and womenswear this season and is focused on a huge Nostalgic theme. Elements and detailing from the 19th century include the use of prints on linings to the blazer silhouettes. Fabrics used within the collection are luxurious with cashmere knits, velvet blazers, and high quality Italian cotton shirts. Colours are also rich with royal blue, cognac and brown and patterns are diverse.
German lifestyle brand Jupiter will offer up the ante on its key outerwear styles in autumn 10. Technical performance driven styles include multi pocket styles in breathable waterproof membranes, while carbon cotton treatments and metallic finishes enhance the brand’s style credentials. Military and nautical styling are also significant in the range with reefer jackets coming through as a key style.
Inspired by the concept of the ultimate travel wardrobe, the autumn 10 collection from Aigle uses the brand’s heritage to conjure up vintage inspired raincoats and trench coats, duffle and pea coats. Jackets have been revised and re-visited, for a contemporary look. Down-filled military parkas, and wool-lined jackets take inspiration from explorers of the Far North. Equestrian inspiration is a key theme, with the brand taking on a Country Club feel. An authentic theme is reinforced through the use of waxed fabric, leather and velvet detailing. Key pieces include quilted jackets and polo shirts.
Best of the rest
With the duffle looking increasingly relevant as a fashion item, UK brand Gloverall is ramping up its heritage values but also going beyond the confines of its headline item to introduce more military and nautical inspired styles. International sales and marketing manager Mark Smith says: “The focus of the collection consists of Classic Gloverall, Heritage Garment - Made in London, Modern British and Luxury Gloverall. Our Iconic Monty has been adapted into new version and fits, Duffles get some interesting treatments and we have updated Reefers and other Military Coats with extensions of our genuine vintage labelling.”
The quality German trouser brand will be introducing new and innovative fabrics for autumn 10 while it also ushers in a smarter look alongside its popular washed cottons and slightly distressed five-pocket styles, which will still be important to the range. In the cleaner look doublefaced wool/cotton fabrics will be lightweight but comfortable, allowing the brand to introduce more styles including puppytooths to the UK market. More bright colours will be introduced in the soft corduroy ranges, including grape and rich red.
The Gant mainline for autumn 10 has three definitive looks. The George Town Washington look encompasses the preppy Gant essence. It is a colourful look, with strong accents and details in purple, pink, green and royal blue and pops of colour across all categories, featuring in inserts under collars and in jean pockets. There is also a new emphasis on lighter outerwear capitalising on transitional weather.
The second concept is Winter Nautical where the colouration is black, red and winter whites with accents of marlin blue. This is where we see Gant heritage, with star detailing and an emphasis on sophistication. The look is a chunky Aran knit, dark wash denim and luxurious wool peacoat.
The third drop is Santa Fe Mexico. This is earthy colours, think Mexican blue skies, washed buildings, rustic oranges. It is special knitwear pieces, Fair Isle sweaters and unique detailing, with teal accents. Warm shirting in brushed flannel and heavy stone washed cord pants are key.