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Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Autumn 15

Our first instalment from Milan’s Men Fashion Week. The major trends from the first half of Milan Men’s Fashion week.

Catch some camel

Spotted at some shows in London and confirmed in Milan, the use of creamy camel shades makes a nice change from the typical winter palette of black, navy and grey. It was most commonly used in Milan across outerwear, particularly on smartly tailored single- and double-breasted wool coats, but was also noted on knitwear and even as an alternative option for suiting.


Prada AW15

Prada AW15

 

Gucci_AW15

Gucci AW15

 

Emporio_Armani_AW15

Emporio Armani AW15

 

Antonio_Marras_AW15

Antonio Marras AW15

Cut to the chase

Menswear trends often involve slight tweaks to classic staples and this season designers turned their attention to collars. First seen at the likes of Burberry Prorsum, Cmmn Swdn and Xander Zhou in London, Milan confirmed a trend for cut-away collars on coats and jackets. Sitting wide across collarbones, these were often worked in contrast fabrics and updated simple coats or jacket shapes.

Ermenegildo_AW15

Ermenegildo Zegna AW15

 

Neil_Barrett_AW15

Neil Barrett AW15

 

Corneliani_AW15

Corneliani AW15

Back to work

There was a slight military feel to the way designers in Milan interpreted the functional workwear-style jackets first seen at London Collections: Men. Again, the key design feature was for statement flapped patch pockets, on the chest, hips and sometimes sleeves. More often than not they featured on light or cropped jackets, but transitional overshirts offered another option.

Salvatore_Ferragamo_AW15

Salvatore Ferragamo AW15

 

Gucci_AW15

Gucci AW15

 

Calvin_Klein_Collection_AW15

Calvin Klein AW15

 

Costume_National_Homme_AW15

Costume National Homme AW15

Parka life

One of the hottest items at both LCM and on the stands at Pitti Uomo was the parka coat. Milan served up the
typical fur-trimmed hoods and technical fabrications, but there were also several updates on offer. Brands like
Les Hommes exaggerated the silhouette, turning it into a statement oversized option. Other names, such as Neil Barrett and Corneliani, took things in a smarter and higher-end direction with sharply tailored wool.

Diesel_Black_Gold_AW15

Diesel Black Gold AW15

 

Versace_AW15

Versace AW15

 

Corneliani_AW15

Corneliani AW15

Feeling sheepish

Next autumn will see the return of shearling and sheepskin, with many designers working fuzzy fabric into their offers. First seen this season at Topman Design at LCM, the trend continued in Milan. Coats came with shearling linings and sheepskin outers, with wide collars, lapels and cuffs given shearling trims. Natural cream and camel were key, but dyed versions, such as Ermenegildo Zegna’s black, might appeal to shoppers.

Neil_Barrett_AW15__1_

Neil Barrett AW15

 

Vivienne_Westwood_AW15

Vivienne Westwood AW15

 

DSquared_AW15

DSquared2 AW15

Slouch for it

Slim silhouettes were all over Milan again, particularly at Prada, so it was interesting to see some designers go in a different direction with roomier trouser shapes. The floor-sweeping cut and dramatic slouch on the catwalks of Jil Sander and Bottega Veneta might be too extreme for some shoppers, but a general move towards wider trousers is a trend to watch.

Bottega_Veneta_AW15

Bottega Veneta AW15

 

Jil_Sander_AW15

Jil Sander AW15

Bombers go luxe

We’ve been talking about them for a number of seasons, but sports-inspired bomber jackets continue to make their way into designer ranges. While the shape is often the same, including a cut-off collar and elasticated waist, this autumn designers played with fabrication. Leather, fur and thick wools lent a luxury feel, while thickly woven knit styles at Corneliani or rich jacquards at Dolce & Gabbana offered a fresh approach.

Corneliani_AW15

Corneliani AW15

 

Dolce___Gabbana_AW15

Dolce&Gabbana AW15

 

Neil_Barrett_AW15

Neil Barrett AW15

 

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