Our first instalment from Milan’s Men Fashion Week. The major trends from the first half of Milan Men’s Fashion week.
Catch some camel
Spotted at some shows in London and confirmed in Milan, the use of creamy camel shades makes a nice change from the typical winter palette of black, navy and grey. It was most commonly used in Milan across outerwear, particularly on smartly tailored single- and double-breasted wool coats, but was also noted on knitwear and even as an alternative option for suiting.
Cut to the chase
Menswear trends often involve slight tweaks to classic staples and this season designers turned their attention to collars. First seen at the likes of Burberry Prorsum, Cmmn Swdn and Xander Zhou in London, Milan confirmed a trend for cut-away collars on coats and jackets. Sitting wide across collarbones, these were often worked in contrast fabrics and updated simple coats or jacket shapes.
Back to work
There was a slight military feel to the way designers in Milan interpreted the functional workwear-style jackets first seen at London Collections: Men. Again, the key design feature was for statement flapped patch pockets, on the chest, hips and sometimes sleeves. More often than not they featured on light or cropped jackets, but transitional overshirts offered another option.
One of the hottest items at both LCM and on the stands at Pitti Uomo was the parka coat. Milan served up the
typical fur-trimmed hoods and technical fabrications, but there were also several updates on offer. Brands like
Les Hommes exaggerated the silhouette, turning it into a statement oversized option. Other names, such as Neil Barrett and Corneliani, took things in a smarter and higher-end direction with sharply tailored wool.
Next autumn will see the return of shearling and sheepskin, with many designers working fuzzy fabric into their offers. First seen this season at Topman Design at LCM, the trend continued in Milan. Coats came with shearling linings and sheepskin outers, with wide collars, lapels and cuffs given shearling trims. Natural cream and camel were key, but dyed versions, such as Ermenegildo Zegna’s black, might appeal to shoppers.
Slouch for it
Slim silhouettes were all over Milan again, particularly at Prada, so it was interesting to see some designers go in a different direction with roomier trouser shapes. The floor-sweeping cut and dramatic slouch on the catwalks of Jil Sander and Bottega Veneta might be too extreme for some shoppers, but a general move towards wider trousers is a trend to watch.
Bombers go luxe
We’ve been talking about them for a number of seasons, but sports-inspired bomber jackets continue to make their way into designer ranges. While the shape is often the same, including a cut-off collar and elasticated waist, this autumn designers played with fabrication. Leather, fur and thick wools lent a luxury feel, while thickly woven knit styles at Corneliani or rich jacquards at Dolce & Gabbana offered a fresh approach.