Our second instalment from Milan Men’s Fashion Week and Pitti Uomo.
Fresh start Gucci
Kering-owned Gucci closed Milan Men’s Fashion Week by appointing Alessandro Michele as its new creative director. This followed the exit of long-standing design chief Frida Giannini ahead of her announced departure date. Formerly Gucci’s accessories designer and associate to Giannini, Michele gave a glimpse of his brand vision with the autumn 15 collection, which he reportedly redesigned at the last minute. He introduced a soft, androgynous feel with soft silky shirts and chiffon pussybow blouses, but outerwear will be the real winner. Tailored double-breasted jackets came with furry collars, a trend that’s been seen all over Milan, alongside a duffle coat with a silhouette sure to be influential come next winter.
Marni’s sharp contrasts
Each season Pitti Uomo invites a brand to take the headline catwalk slot as its guest designer. Creative director Consuelo Castiglioni, who founded the label in 1994, presented a fairly staid collection of knits and single-breasted tailoring pepped up with statement patchwork fur sweaters and outerwear. The broken suits, featuring tailored blazers and trousers of contrasting colours, looked freshest, while the fluffy yellow knit popped up in other collections, including Andrea Pompilio and No 21.
Getting creative with ports 1961
Milan Vukmirovic made his first appearance in the newly created role of creative director for menswear at Ports 1961, after being appointed in July 2014. He offered up a range of classic yet covetable staples, with highlights including long-line pea coats, toggled duffle coats, a sporty bomber and a parka-style jacket for outerwear, chunky panelled jumpers, belted shawl-neck cardigans for knitwear, and slouchy wide-leg trousers. In a smart move each item was offered in various styles, so buyers could pick from an array of colours, prints, patterns and various levels of decoration and embellishment. His social media-inspired #FollowMe jacket was one of the week’s talking points.
Happy 20th, DSquared
DSquared, the Italian label designed by Canadian twins Dean and Dan Caten, opened Milan Fashion Week with a catwalk extravaganza to celebrate the label’s 20th birthday. The collection was full of signature denim with a shot of Americana and a fun, rock ‘n’ roll edge. Key trends were functional outerwear layers, such as oversized quilted coats and cropped parkas. Shearling and fur also featured, with shearling-trimmed collars set to be big news next season.