We round up Milan Fashion Week’s big stories - plus the key trends, from the asymmetric to the tailored.
New Launch: Giamba
Giambattista Valli, who shows his extravagant couture and ready-to-wear collections during Paris Fashion Week, launched his diffusion line Giamba in Milan last week. Named after the designer’s childhood nickname, it is a slightly more casual, daywear-inspired offer compared with his signature evening gowns and couture creations. It focused on feminine and flirty babydoll A-line minidresses in a pastel pink and monochrome palette, teamed with sheer layers and floral prints embellished with 3D appliqués.
Key Show: Prada
Miuccia Prada always marches to the beat of her own drum, and her eponymous mainline collection always stands out as a Milan highlight, with its influence inevitably trickling down through all levels of the market. This season had a wearable and everyday feel, livened up with crafty vintage fabrics with a slight 1970s spin. This included rich brocades with trailing raw hems on prim knee-skimming dresses and separates, or patchworked across pieces. The collection was topped by neat tailored coats picked out with contrasting top stitching.
Label to know: MSGM
Unlike London and New York, Milan is not particularly known for its emerging labels and new names, but Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM is one to take note of. Stocked in the UK at Browns and Matchesfashion.com, the label is quickly gathering fans thanks to its original silhouettes and fresh print and pattern combos. This season, neon floral lace was cut into short minidresses, while birds fluttered across simple dresses, wrap-front skirts and prim coats, either as colourful prints or 3D appliqués.
Celebrating 20 Springs: Marni
This season was the 20th anniversary of Consuelo Castiglioni’s off-kilter label Marni, which has risen to prominence since 1984 thanks to its original silhouettes, fun patterns and crafty fabrics. For spring, there were signature voluminous shapes, such as tops with extra-long sleeves, flouncy asymmetric dresses and wrapped and frilled skirt panels topped with oversized judo belts. The opening restrained monochrome looks were taken over by bold and graphic florals, providing the vibrant and playful punch the brand is known for.
Debut: Jill Sander
Former womenswear design director at Prada and creative director at Vionnet, Rodolfo Paglialunga made his debut as the creative director of Jil Sander, following the eponymous German designer’s departure last year. He stuck with the clean minimalism the brand is famous for, showing a wearable, uniform-like spin on pared-back masculine-meets-feminine dressing. Skirts and wide shorts fell on the knee, with the most interesting styles wrapped with overlaid fronts (another trend to watch), often teamed with collared shirts layered under sleeveless knits, fluted mid-sleeved jumpers or cropped patch-pocket utility jackets.
- For more coverage, including additional catwalk images, see www.drapersonline.com/product/catwalk