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Milan Fashion Week: the top ten trends for autumn 20

Fendi gettyimages 1202011867

Milan’s autumn 20 offering was a season of drama on and off the runways. 

The fashion crowds were abuzz with the news of Raf Simons joining Prada as co-creative director. Elsewhere, the rapid spread of the Covid-19 coronavirus in towns close to Milan caused widespread concern – Giorgio Armani chose to live stream his collection instead of hosting a traditional show. Nevertheless, the catwalks continued: presenting new forms of femininity, luxe minimalism and exuberant partywear. Here Drapers rounds up the top 10 trends to know.

Neutral attraction

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Beige, camel, caramel, oat, toffee or tan: no matter the shade, neutrals remained the dominant palette on the autumn 20 catwalks in Milan. Warm tonal suiting was a particularly popular theme – as seen at Drome and Salvatore Ferragamo, but more slouchy relaxed styles including jumpers, knit skirts and relaxed trousers were also popular across the shows.

1940s femininity

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Cinched waists, midi-skirts, sharp jackets and heritage fabrics harking back to the 1940s were popular on the Milan catwalks. The softly feminine aesthetic was shown most prominently at brands including Fendi, where a series of swirling suiting with luxe satin and leather texture detailing gave the reference a sophisticated, sensual undertone. Elsewhere, brands including Vivetta, Vien and No 21 also paid homage to the decade, creating catwalks brimming with a feminine, romantic take on power dressing.

Minimalist maxi-dresses

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Sleek and chic long line dresses in cosy, luxurious knits were a stand-out product trend in Milan. Brands ranging from Bottega Veneta to Jil Sander presented soft and minimal styles with a pared-back yet elevated aesthetic. Adhering to the overwhelming trend for a neutral palette, dresses appeared in muted tones of grey, beige, cream and black – with subtle details: a puff sleeve or subtle cut-out taking the styles beyond basics territory.

Big Sleeve Energy

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When it came to sleeves, it was the bolder the better in Milan. Giant and exaggerated puffed styles appeared across the catwalks, creating a dramatic silhouette. The boldest, most dramatic versions appeared at Moschino – where designer Jeremy Scott presented a show inspired by French queen Marie Antoinette. Elsewhere, more wearable volume was on show at Max Mara in a series of oversized blazers, and at Fendi and Annakiki, where the silhouette was worked into playful party dresses.

Fabulous fringe

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Spaghetti-like fringe detailing was a playful addition to the Milan catwalks for autumn 20. While some designers offered a relatively muted look – in black and white at Prada and Jil Sander – the most lively versions took the trend to extremes, adding vibrant injections of colour. Bottega Veneta’s bouncing skirts in lime green were a particular highlight, as was Boss’ sleek lilac midi-dress.

Disco-ball dressing

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The Italian labels love a bit of glamour, and for autumn 20 several designers offered up glittering, glimmering disco-ball style dresses for the party season. Versace’s silver mini-dress was a particular highlight, as were Prada’s delicately sequinned shift dresses, which presented a slightly more subtle take on the trend.

Keep it cosy

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Snuggle up for autumn 20. Chunky knits, oversized shapes, high necks and dramatic layering made for a super-cosy take on winter dressing. Several designers paired these OTT woollies with fluid, satin skirts, but at Anteprima and Dolce & Gabbana, jumpers were layered with knitted dresses, skirts, cardigans and accessories – proving that no matter the product, cosy textures are big news.

Leather leads the way

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Leather has been a popular trend in recent seasons across the luxury menswear and womenswear markets – and full-looks in the premium material remain a key trend to note. Italy’s leather specialists shone in this channel: sleek coats at Tod’s, Salvatore Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta came in a range of muted neutral tones. It remains a popular fabric in non-outerwear styles too, and leather trousers, dresses, skirts and shirts all made appearances.

Red alert

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Missoni’s red textured suit, Jil Sander’s vibrant scarlet shirt dress, Philosophy’s Victoriana-inspired eveningwear and former London designer Ports 1961’s shimmering, ruby gown were just some of the styles bringing audacious shades of red to the Milan catwalks. In a season dominated by neutral tones, crimson provided an eye-popping contrast.

The look of lingerie

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Having already emerged as a trend in London, lingerie detailing and sensual, sexy design details remained popular in Milan. While some designers presented elegant, boudoir bodices – a highlight was Fendi’s rose pink, satin corsetry – others took a darker take on the trend. Gucci, for example showed a series of elegant, romantic dresses topped with sturdy leather harnesses. Get ready to buckle up.

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