Milan’s autumn 20 offering was a season of drama on and off the runways.
The fashion crowds were abuzz with the news of Raf Simons joining Prada as co-creative director. Elsewhere, the rapid spread of the Covid-19 coronavirus in towns close to Milan caused widespread concern – Giorgio Armani chose to live stream his collection instead of hosting a traditional show. Nevertheless, the catwalks continued: presenting new forms of femininity, luxe minimalism and exuberant partywear. Here Drapers rounds up the top 10 trends to know.
Beige, camel, caramel, oat, toffee or tan: no matter the shade, neutrals remained the dominant palette on the autumn 20 catwalks in Milan. Warm tonal suiting was a particularly popular theme – as seen at Drome and Salvatore Ferragamo, but more slouchy relaxed styles including jumpers, knit skirts and relaxed trousers were also popular across the shows.
Cinched waists, midi-skirts, sharp jackets and heritage fabrics harking back to the 1940s were popular on the Milan catwalks. The softly feminine aesthetic was shown most prominently at brands including Fendi, where a series of swirling suiting with luxe satin and leather texture detailing gave the reference a sophisticated, sensual undertone. Elsewhere, brands including Vivetta, Vien and No 21 also paid homage to the decade, creating catwalks brimming with a feminine, romantic take on power dressing.
Sleek and chic long line dresses in cosy, luxurious knits were a stand-out product trend in Milan. Brands ranging from Bottega Veneta to Jil Sander presented soft and minimal styles with a pared-back yet elevated aesthetic. Adhering to the overwhelming trend for a neutral palette, dresses appeared in muted tones of grey, beige, cream and black – with subtle details: a puff sleeve or subtle cut-out taking the styles beyond basics territory.
Big Sleeve Energy
When it came to sleeves, it was the bolder the better in Milan. Giant and exaggerated puffed styles appeared across the catwalks, creating a dramatic silhouette. The boldest, most dramatic versions appeared at Moschino – where designer Jeremy Scott presented a show inspired by French queen Marie Antoinette. Elsewhere, more wearable volume was on show at Max Mara in a series of oversized blazers, and at Fendi and Annakiki, where the silhouette was worked into playful party dresses.
Spaghetti-like fringe detailing was a playful addition to the Milan catwalks for autumn 20. While some designers offered a relatively muted look – in black and white at Prada and Jil Sander – the most lively versions took the trend to extremes, adding vibrant injections of colour. Bottega Veneta’s bouncing skirts in lime green were a particular highlight, as was Boss’ sleek lilac midi-dress.
The Italian labels love a bit of glamour, and for autumn 20 several designers offered up glittering, glimmering disco-ball style dresses for the party season. Versace’s silver mini-dress was a particular highlight, as were Prada’s delicately sequinned shift dresses, which presented a slightly more subtle take on the trend.
Keep it cosy
Snuggle up for autumn 20. Chunky knits, oversized shapes, high necks and dramatic layering made for a super-cosy take on winter dressing. Several designers paired these OTT woollies with fluid, satin skirts, but at Anteprima and Dolce & Gabbana, jumpers were layered with knitted dresses, skirts, cardigans and accessories – proving that no matter the product, cosy textures are big news.
Leather leads the way
Leather has been a popular trend in recent seasons across the luxury menswear and womenswear markets – and full-looks in the premium material remain a key trend to note. Italy’s leather specialists shone in this channel: sleek coats at Tod’s, Salvatore Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta came in a range of muted neutral tones. It remains a popular fabric in non-outerwear styles too, and leather trousers, dresses, skirts and shirts all made appearances.
Missoni’s red textured suit, Jil Sander’s vibrant scarlet shirt dress, Philosophy’s Victoriana-inspired eveningwear and former London designer Ports 1961’s shimmering, ruby gown were just some of the styles bringing audacious shades of red to the Milan catwalks. In a season dominated by neutral tones, crimson provided an eye-popping contrast.
The look of lingerie
Having already emerged as a trend in London, lingerie detailing and sensual, sexy design details remained popular in Milan. While some designers presented elegant, boudoir bodices – a highlight was Fendi’s rose pink, satin corsetry – others took a darker take on the trend. Gucci, for example showed a series of elegant, romantic dresses topped with sturdy leather harnesses. Get ready to buckle up.