Pastel hues, kaleidoscopic tie dye and a soft take on tailoring were some of the stand-out trends from a vibrant spring 20 season on the Milanese catwalks.
All tied up
The 1990s trend remains a powerful influence over the menswear catwalks, and the Milan designers showed this with a kaleidoscope of tie-dye prints and patterns. Versace’s show paid tribute to late Prodigy singer Keith Flint, and featured rainbow tie-dye paired with checks and denim for a punky feel. Elsewhere, Marni’s rainbow leather shirt and trousers were an unexpected nod to the style.
Really wild show
Leopard, tiger, dalmatian and zebra were just some of the range of animal prints chosen by designers in Milan. As leopard continues to dominate in womenswear trends, the menswear catwalks are taking note – and branching out to new variations on the animal theme. DSquared2’s fiery tiger print, and Versace’s subtle ombré leopard were standouts.
Softly does it
Milan’s focus on tailoring took a relaxed turn for spring 20. Billowy shirting in silky fabrics, wider-leg trousers and crinkled textures gave a lived-in aesthetic to traditionally formal styles. Ermenegildo Zegna’s pink, shimmering crumpled suit, and Pal Zileri’s diaphanous, louche silhouettes encapsulated this laid-back look.
The check list
Checks were popular at London Fashion Week Men’s, and the Milan catwalks showed its popularity is set to prevail. For spring 20, there were new interpretations of the classic style – Fendi and Marni both made use of oversized, distorted and textured checks.
Oversized silhouettes, zip detailing, fringing and stud embellishments gave a dark, grungy glamour to leather looks in Milan. Biker and bomber shapes were both popular, and zipped vests also made their way down the catwalk. Philipp Plein’s studded biker jacket was a standout, dramatic style in a collection that heavily referenced glam rock.
The utility trend has been prevalent across the menswear catwalks for several seasons now, and is heading in a more sophisticated direction for spring 20. Milan collections took a more refined approach than the bold, street- and sports-influenced looks that have been seen before – the use of muted monochromes and neutrals lent a toned-down aesthetic to the look.
The new neutral
A soft colour palette of oat, toffee, beige, camel and brown dominated the Milan catwalks. The palette took on a fresh, summer feel, and tailored tonal looks were particularly popular.
Milan’s designers looked to the Far East for inspiration this season, as prints and shapes alike were influenced by Asian styles. Chinese mandarin collars appeared in tailored looks in several collections, including at Giorgio Armani, while Japanese wrap jackets were decorated with blossom prints at In Nom Uh Nit. Elsewhere, bold prints at Palm Angels and Spyder featured vibrant, eye-catching Eastern-inspired designs.
Powder blue, soft rose, mint green and lemon yellow suffused the Milan palette with softness, continuing a trend that emerged in London. The shades were used across tailoring at Pal Zileri and Miguel Viera, while Ermenegildo Zegna and Numero 00 presented looks that were more influenced by streetwear, such as pastel windcheaters and bomber jackets.