Updates on classic looks, relaxed tailoring and the return of camouflage were the big stories for Milan’s spring 18 menswear shows.
From Fendi’s relaxed suiting, to Prada’s jumpsuit manifesto and fresh takes on classics, the menswear catwalks in Milan made subtle statements for spring 18. Alongside the typical Milanese tailoring there was a more relaxed, urban, surf-inspired undercurrent to some collections – suiting was set alongside bombers and blazers, while classics such as checks, stripes and camouflage came in traditional types and fresh updates.
A new brand of tailoring is taking hold this season, spotted in London and now Milan – relaxed and slightly undone with an office-wear edge. The look is being pioneered particularly strongly by Silvia Venturini Fendi at Fendi, where models were clad in billowy trousers, loose ties and unstructured outerwear such as trench coats and bomber jackets, rather than the traditional suit blazer. The style also appeared at No21, Marni and Prada: menswear is getting back to business.
Jumping in at Prada
Miuccia Prada made a strong case for the male one-piece this season, as she showed three separate tailored jumpsuits in her spring 18 menswear offering. Not only that, but matching tops and trousers were styled to replicate one pieces, giving a tailored utility feel.
Part Venice Beach, part surf holiday, there was a summery feel on the Milan catwalks this season, with floral and beach-themed prints on sportswear separates. No21 showed board shorts and shirts with a painted surfer motif, Marcelo Burlon featured a sunset-tone palm print bomber and at GCDS, a hoodie decorated with leaping swordfish caught the eye.
From rosey blush to bubblegum, the pink trend continued as big news in Milan. Ermenegildo Zegna, Prada and Fendi all showcased muted pink suiting, while brighter tones stood out on streetwear-led looks from GCDS and Versace.
Designers were taking their cues from sportswear stripes for spring 18 – think vintage football kits and 1970s athletics. The result was a plethora of wide stripes in contrasting colours. A burgundy and mustard knit top was shown at Prada and Marni paired a multi-striped rugby shirt and shorts combo with red lace-up basketball shoes.
Safari styling popped up throughout the Milan catwalks in a multitude of guises, giving a fresh take on the utility trend. Colours varied from soft sandy tones to khakis and stone. In addition to traditional utility jackets, combat trousers appeared at Diesel Black Gold while Les Hommes paired cargo shorts with safari-style waistcoats.
Camouflage made a comeback in Milan – both traditional and modern interpretations appeared across the board. A muted camouflage trench coat stood out at Munsoo Kwon, while the pattern got a modern revamp with distorted graphics and bold palettes at MSGM and Palm Angels.
Heritage checks cropped up at Milan, dotted throughout designers’ collections – from the subtle green and white squares at Wood Wood and check blazers at Daks to more modern and bold check-on-check looks at Moncler Gamme Bleu, where plaid puffa jackets, shirts, shorts and even socks were paired together.