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New York catwalks: the top trends and talking points of autumn 17

From velvet, shearling and slinky suiting, through to the big debuts and anniversary collections of the latest edition of New York Fashion Week

Trend: Very velvet

Altuzarra

Altuzarra

Altuzarra

The focus on plush velvets continues for another season – the tactile fabrication makes an appearance in several collections. Tailoring and dresses were common, but it was also used in more unexpected ways, as in Lacoste’s sportier styles.

 

Trend: Hello yellow

(Left to right) Altuzarra, Calvin Klein, Lacoste, Monse

(Left to right) Altuzarra, Calvin Klein, Lacoste, Monse

(Left to right) Altuzarra, Calvin Klein, Lacoste, Monse

Mustard, lemon or pastel sherbet – whatever the shade, be sure to buy into yellow for autumn. Brighter tones will be harder for customers to wear, so the darker, mustardy palette will have the broadest appeal.

 

Trend: Great coats

(Left to right) Alexander Wang, Victoria Beckham, Michael Kors, 3.1 Philip Lim

(Left to right) Alexander Wang, Victoria Beckham, Michael Kors, 3.1 Philip Lim

(Left to right) Alexander Wang, Victoria Beckham, Michael Kors, 3.1 Philip Lim

Make an understated statement with oversized, mannish tailored coats – classic in their design but with a fashionable edge thanks to their dramatic shin-skimming lengths. Classic colours such as navy, grey and camel were abundant across the catwalks, but pep up your buy with some pops of colour too.

 

Trend: The fuzz

(Left to right) Tory Burch, Coach, Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler

(Left to right) Tory Burch, Coach, Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler

(Left to right) Tory Burch, Coach, Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler

Fuzzy shearling was all over the recent menswear catwalks and bought a cosiness to many women’s ranges in New York. While full shearling jackets or fully lined styles will be big-ticket investment pieces, fuzzy trims or contrasting collars nod to the trend in a more affordable way.

 

Trend: Get suited

(Left to right) Victoria Beckham, Prabal Garung, Gabriela Hearst, Calvin Klein

(Left to right) Victoria Beckham, Prabal Garung, Gabriela Hearst, Calvin Klein

(Left to right) Victoria Beckham, Prabal Garung, Gabriela Hearst, Calvin Klein

The suit is back for autumn 17 and it means business. From the boxy-shouldered androgynous blazers in shows such as Raf Simons for Calvin Klein through to the relaxed slouch of Victoria Beckham – the blazer and trouser combo is one to watch.

 

Trend: Political statements

Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung

There was little doubt that our turbulent times and America’s political unrest would make their way on to the catwalks, but several designers tackled them head on with bold slogans throughout their collections. Prabal Gurung closed his show with a series of statement-making T-shirts, covered with slogans like “The Future is Female”, “Break Down Walls” and “Voices for Choices”. Public School’s Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne poked fun at President Trump’s Make American Great Again with their Make America New York sweaters and caps, while Creatures of Comfort emblazoned We Are All Human Beings slogans across the closing looks of its latest offering.

 

Talking point: 10 years of Wu

Jason Wu

Jason Wu

Jason Wu

Michele Obama favourite Jason Wu is celebrating 10 years in business in 2017, and offered up a collection of 10-out-of-10 dresses that promise to score top marks. The standout ruched and draped velvet numbers, slinking sexily around the body, offered a fresh and modern take on glamour.

 

Talking point: Raf at Calvin

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

Influential Belgian designer Raf Simons’ debut at Calvin Klein was the most anticipated show of New York Fashion Week – the former Dior and Jil Sander designer made the move to America following his appointment as chief creative officer in August last year.

There was a rigorous and controlled simplicity to much of the range – nods to uniform-like workwear and tailoring blended with a whiff of 1990s styling done in bold blocks of colour. The outerwear offer was also strong, from masculine tailored coats through to quilted styles to a standout fur overcoat covered in a layer of slick plastic, like a sofa protected from wear and tear.

 

Talking point: New designers at Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta

For autumn 17, former employees of Oscar de la Renta (and Monse designers) Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia returned to their former workplace as its new creative directors, following Peter Copping’s exit last year. It was a hit and miss debut – there were some strong nods to the signature de la Renta elegance of years gone by, alongside some styles that felt a little too retro.

 

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