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New York Fashion Week: Autumn 15 womenswear

The women’s catwalk season kicked off last week, with designers pushing dark shades and animal fabrics.

Back to black

There was a move towards the gothic this season, with all-black looks and black-on-black styling dominating several shows. Even designers famed for their bold use of colour opted for dark collections, such as Diane von Furstenberg and Donna Karan. The moody palette focused on a grungy and gothy vibe at the likes of Thom Browne and Alexander Wang, which will have a young fashion appeal that should translate well to the high street.


Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang

Caped crusaders

For an outerwear trend with a difference, keep an eye on capes. There were throw-on wool versions at Tommy Hilfiger, while Michael Kors took classic Crombies and sliced in arm holes for a cocooning option, similar to the style seen at Marc Jacobs, which came with contrasting furry top collar.


Tommy Hilfiger

Tommy Hilfiger

Fur real (or fake)

There was no denying the amount of fur on the catwalks, giving a cosy and luxurious feel to many collections. Fox, sable and mink were spotted, alongside the widespread use of high-quality imitation options. Opulent full furry coats were seen, but a more sellable trend involved fur trims and collars, alongside accessories such as scarves and stoles.


Altuzarra

Altuzarra

Playing polo

Forget revealing necklines - covering up is sexier this season. Polo-neck jumpers were spotted at shows including Victoria Beckham and J Crew, but special mention must go to Thakoon, who styled a striped knit under a silky dress in an excellent example of winter layering.


Victoria Beckham

Victoria Beckham

Prim and proper parkas

A trend prevalent in many menswear collections has now jumped onto the women’s catwalks, making the functional parka a key item to watch. The most common variations were given a luxury update, with real and fake fur-trimmed hoods and premium fabrics elevating the item, as seen at 3.1 Phillip Lim and Rodarte.


Prabal Garung

Prabal Garung

Check Mates

From a preppy plaid two-piece at Tommy Hilfiger to punky tartan trousers at Marc by Marc Jacobs, this versatile print showed up in a variety of manifestations during the course of the week. A checked coat, as seen at Creatures of the Wind, is an accessible look for women of all ages and would make an interesting addition to any outerwear offering.

 

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Fine wine

Rich burgundy is a quintessential autumnal shade, but it was a surprise to see so much of it on the New York catwalks. Easy to wear and universally flattering, deep red works well on everything from elegant daywear, as seen at Proenza Schouler, to evening gowns à la Peter Copping’s debut at Oscar de la Renta.

 

Diane Von Furstenberg

Diane Von Furstenberg

Sheep and chic

There was plenty of shearling at the men’s shows, and if New York Fashion Week is anything to go by, it
looks set to carry over into womenswear. A classic black bomber at Coach and a fuzzy white utility jacket
at Opening Ceremony gave off a 1970s vibe, while at Nicholas K a sheepskin-lined oversized parka had a modern feel.


Coach

Coach

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