Your quick-click catch up on all the goings-on from New York Fashion Week, including the key shows and emerging trends.
Marc Jacobs’ glittering glam rock rave
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Marc Jacobs closed the spring 17 edition of New York Fashion Week with a glam rock rave, each model sporting huge piles of dreadlocks in their hair and ever bigger platform shoes on their feet.
The clothes were a mix and match affair of high and low, street and couture, piling on sweet pastel colours with a mad mix and match of fabrics, prints and embellishments.
Sparkly marching jackets, feather strewn negligee dresses and ruffled puff ball sleeve baby doll dresses were teamed with every day denim, embroidered hoodies and Jacob’s take on a bomber jacket (cropped and frilled with an oversized ruffle).
Turn up the contrast at Michael Kors
It was a show of contrasts this season at Michael Kors. Soft, masculine tailoring sat alongside floral and feminine ruffled dresses, while oversized coats and jackets were followed by micro-shorts and mini-dresses in colours flitting between neon and neutral. Clashing prints and florals were scattered throughout.
The collection was nevertheless coherent. Relaxed glamour and soft silhouettes maintained a theme, punctuated by deep necklines, cinched waists and feminine accents even in the more masculine items.
Both cut-outs and maxi-length sleeves popped up once again at the Kors show – they look set to emerge as dominant trends from New York after also featuring in collections from Vera Wang and Proenza Schouler. Key pieces include the sweeping floral maxi-dresses, as well as the oversized jumpers – all of which characterised the easy, simple aesthetic characteristic of Kors’ designs.
Ralph Lauren’s cowgirl glam
Ralph Lauren was the latest New York Fashion Week designer to join the “see now, shop now” straight-to-consumer movement, presenting an autumn 16 collection that dropped into stores immediately after his show.
The collection gave a glamourous update to Lauren’s signature city cowgirls with an American western theme.
Buffalo checks covered shirts and shirt-jackets, while cowboy shirts with embroidered yokes and fringed leather jackets and suede were key, often teamed with elegant tailored trousers or glittering eveningwear skirts.
Western graphic patterns covered skirts or decorated just the hem of column dresses, alongside a range of long, fringed dresses.
The collection ended with a punch of colour for evening – glittering sequin styles in bright pink, blue and yellow came with ombré hems.
Prarie rebels at Coach
Creative director Stuart Vevers’s girl gang was a band of rebels this season. Motorbike studded, patchworked and fringed leather jackets toughed up light and whimsical prairie floral dresses, anchored with fringed platform creeper boots lined with heavy hardware studding.
The airy, girly floral print and embroidered dresses came in soft semi-sheer fabrics, given a new season grungy, rebellious edge via more studding, leather fringing and thick black ribbon ties, alongside dark floral colourings.
Dreamy scenes from Rodarte
Kate and Laura Mulleavy continued the dreamy prettiness of their collections for spring 17.
Layered and lacy dresses came with puffed-up ruffle shoulders and skirts full of frills falling from waistlines. Layers of delicate mixed fabrics, embellishment and decoration were topped with shaggy shearling coats.
In contrast to the sisters’ classic romantic fairy dresses came tougher styles, including their takes on studded leather jackets and dresses, pierced with safety pins.
Vera Wang’s shoulders and sleeves
Sleeves, shoulders and short skirts were the three key themes in the almost all-black Vera Wang spring 17 collection.
Shoulderless tops, often cropped at the stomach, bared chest and arm flesh with dramatic cutaways, and featured elongated sleeves, sometimes covering the hand, sometimes hanging down to the knee.
Skirts and shorts came extra short, occasionally layered with peplum panels or masked under a semi-sheer maxi-length tube skirt.
Proenza Schouler pack a punch
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez injected bolts of fresh, bold colour in their latest Proenza Schouler collection, pepping up the monochrome black and white base of much of the range with a graphic punch.
Stripes were a key motif, starting off as a classic horizontal Breton across a nipped-waist blazer, and evolving into draped panels and pleated sections wiggling across waists and hanging from hips on asymmetrical three-dimensional skirts, chopped up into blocks on clingy dresses and skirts, and even racing around colorful intarsia panelled furs.
Drapey asymmetrical details are an emerging New York trend, here giving movement to skirts and long dresses, some of which came with wrap-over bodices (also seen at Sies Marjan) or knotted tie-front details.
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Oscar de la Renta’s interim range
The spring 17 collection from Oscar de la Renta was created by its in-house design team following the departure of Peter Copping, and while it awaits the arrival of its new creative directors, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia of Monse.
The best looks this season came in the opening section of the show: white styles with high necks, long sleeves and low hems that lent a casual, peasant feel to the brand’s typically more formal dresses.
A new chapter at Diane von Furstenberg
It’s all change at Diane von Furstenberg, where former London Fashion Week designer Jonathan Saunders has been newly appointed as chief creative officer.
While the feel of the brand’s founder was there, Saunder’s creative flair, eye for colour and love of print breathed new life into the label.
There were echoes of Furstenberg’s signature wrap dress – some literal nods and some more subtle winks. Asymmetry was at play across the range, updating hem lengths and decorative panels and frills, on dresses and tops with one sleeve missing and across pieces created by the smart combination of two colours, fabrics or prints.
Alexander Wang goes surfing
The big surprise at Alexander Wang’s spring 17 show was the unveiling of a unisex collaboration with Adidas. Featuring tracksuits and sporty tops edged with the classic three-stripe branding and subverted upside Adidas logo.
The main collection opened with shirting and suiting fabrics used in new Wang ways, across skimpy boxer shorts or wrapped and tied into little tops and matching button-up A-line skirts or skin-baring mini-dresses.
Classic Wang came through in more signature streetwear styles that took a surfer slant this season. Pops of neon pepped up panelled hooded crop tops and lace-trimmed neon bralets and shorts. A sequined wrap skirt looked like a beach towel, while a furry coat teamed with flip flops could have been a pool-side dressing gown.
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Easy, breezy velvet at Victoria Beckham
Ease, movement and relaxed asymmetry were key stories in Victoria Beckham’s latest range. Soft and slouchy dresses came in crushed velvets and creased silks in pops of lilac and iridescent blue, draped and folded or cut with interesting panels and straps. Pleats and ribbed knits added linear motifs alongside graphic stripes, while wallpaper floral prints were another point of interest.
Bras stood out as a key construction element to Beckham’s new relaxed dresses, or worn under lightly tailored jackets with nothing else.
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Tommy Hilfiger goes straight to consumers
Tommy Hilfiger’s first foray into its #TommyNow straight-to-consumer strategy launched with his autumn 16 collaboration with social media star and model of the moment Gigi Hadid. The “show now, shop now” collection raced down the runaway and straight into stores, available to buy right away.
There was an overall nautical theme, which went from shrunken sailor jackets and long tailored coats and capes complete with golden buttons, to nods to boho in airy maxi dresses printed with sailor tattoos and a sportier streetwear-inspired section: think bomber jackets, tracksuits and oversized hoodies emblazoned with a Tommy anchor and other nautical embellishments.
One to watch: Sies Marjan
Sander Lak’s debut Sies Marjan collection was a one-to-watch highlight of last season’s New York Fashion Week. His second collection packed just as much punch and will keep his stockists, which already include Barneys in New York and Matchesfashion.com, happy.
Eye-catching colours included fluorescent yellow, bright pink and bold orange worn in monotone outfits and tonal combos. Much of the collection focused a directional twist on wearable pieces, and garments were elevated with panels, drapes and criss-cross details: think tops and dresses with wrapped details hugging the chest, or slouchy dresses draped around the body.
An American favourite at Altuzarra
There was a fun and frivolous air to Joseph Altuzarra’s latest offering, his signature slinky dresses being pepped up with fruity cherry prints and zesty lemon embroideries.
Frills and ruffles swept across his pencil skirts shapes, trimmed the straps of matching mini bra tops (see Victoria Beckham for more) or edged the hem of gingham shirt dresses. Snakeskin also featured heavily, printed across denim or covering a cherry-embellished trench coat.
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Kanye West revealed his latest collection with Adidas on day one of New York Fashion Week, amid controversy surrounding the rapper’s “multi-racial women only” model-casting request.
Called Yeezy Season 4, the collection evolved West’s set signatures. The palette focused on dirty whites, sandy neutrals and blush shades in full tonal looks, alongside splashes of dirty khaki camo. The silhouette focused on two areas: oversized and slouchy – seen on roomy hoodies, baggy knit dresses and enveloping military-tinged coats – or, contrastingly, bodycon, in myriad bra tops, tight bodysuits and ribbed skirts, finished with thigh-high heeled boots.
Tom Ford kicks off ‘see now, buy now’
The season of change kicked off with a glamorous New York Fashion Week start at Tom Ford, where the designer launched his first “show now, shop now” collection of straight-to-consumer clothes, “closing the gap between runway and retail”. Look out for brands such as Thakoon and Tommy Hilfiger following suit.
In another unusual move, Ford showed his autumn 16 collection designed to drop straight into stores, rather than the spring 17 offerings that most other designers will be showing this fashion week.
The clothes mainly focused on a sexy cinched waist and midi-length pencil skirt silhouette, strapped with leather belts and dripping in gold jewellery. Cosy winter tweeds and wools were contrasted with leather and fur in typical Ford fashion.
Maxi coats and chubby intarsia furs in coloured panels were another standout, while metallic fringing and sparkling sequins were the order of the day for eveningwear.