From a return to the 1970s, to heritage checks and pops of yellow, these are the womenswear trends, colours and fabrics of note from the autumn 19 edition of New York Fashion Week.
That 1970s show (left to right): Anna Sui, Coach, Michael Kors and Longchamp
The 1970s are back (again) for autumn 19, and New York designers looked to the decade’s melange of patchworked patterns, floral prints, textured finishes, fringed edges and exuberant mix of rich colours for their new collections. Among the key items to channel the trend are long and floaty dresses, and furry, sleeveless gilets and jackets.
Tuxed up (left to right): Tom Ford, Self-Portrait, Carolina Herrera and Alexander Wang
Tailoring pervades into autumn 19, but the newest direction from New York this season focused on slick, black tuxedo suits. Borrowed from the classic menswear style, they came sexy and fitted at Tom Ford and Self-Portrait, or slashed with peek-a-boo cut-outs at Carolina Herrera. Alexander Wang took borrowing from the boys literally, showing oversized menswear-style blazers worn as dresses.
Plaid culture (left to right): Tory Burch, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and Proenza Schouler
Heritage patterns – checks, plaids, tartans, herringbones and houndstooths – lent a classic smartness to many designs. The patterned blazer is the hero item of the trend with the most commercial appeal, alongside patterned outerwear. Designers such as Tory Burch took the trend to an extreme in head-to-toe checks and plaids, and mix-and-match looks.
Animal crossings (left to right): Alexander Wang, Coach, Marc Jacobs and Anna Sui
It was a case of two trends in one item via patterned outerwear with textured finishes. At Anna Sui and Alexander Wang, long furry coats featured feline spots and stripes, while Coach applied the logo-mania trend to its patterned, furry outerwear.
Shifty shades (from left): Tom Ford, Gabriella Hearst, Michael Kors and Oscar de la Renta
Head-to-toe tonal outfits channelled a modern sophistication in New York, and several designer brands sent out matchy-matchy looks. Neutrals such as grey, off-white and black were common, while camel and beige palettes looked fresh alongside autumnal shades of deep green and rust.
Go mono (from left): Longchamp, Rodarte, Jeremy Scott and Alexander Wang
Graphic monochrome looks stood out thanks to their stark simplicity this season. The trend cropped up across a variety of styles, from the frilled, girly dresses at Rodarte to Alexander Wang’s casual, boyish shirts and blazers. It don’t matter – as long as it’s black and white.
Leather report (from left): Khaite, Proenza Schouler, Sies Marjan and Zimmermann
Leather and leather-like fabrics whipped a sense contrast into a handful of the Big Apple’s autumn 19 ranges. At Zimmermann, for example, the brand’s signature delicate dress silhouettes were toughened up in head-to-toe leather, while elsewhere floor-length floaty coats and classic macs were reworked with a sleek new leather look.
Get ethereal (left to right): Adeam, Carolina Herrera, Khaite and Gabriella Hearst
Among the prints, patterns and 1970s energy of New York, floor-length, voluminous dresses in purest white were a serenely eye-catching style to note. Often frilled and peplumed, oversized balloon sleeves were also a key feature – one to watch for eveningwear alternatives.
Winter sunshine (left to right): Adeam, Tory Burch, Self-Portrait and Noon by Noor
The “Gen Z” yellow of 2018 – so called thanks to its surge in popularity last year – has spawned a plethora of yellow mutations for the new season. From mustard tones to saffron shades, the range of yellows bought a pop of colour to several collections.