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Paris catwalks: the top trends and talking points

Drapers rounds up the designer moves, biggest news and trends to know from the autumn 17 womenswear catwalks of Paris Fashion Week.

In the red

From left: Chloe, Alexander McQueen, Giambattista Valli, Wanda Nylon

From left: Chloe, Alexander McQueen, Giambattista Valli, Wanda Nylon

One of the season’s most eye-catching colour trends, bold reds stood out across the Paris catwalks. Appearing on everything from evening dresses to tailoring – and just as popular for footwear and accessories – the hue looked most vibrant when worked in head-to-toe tonal blocks.

Balenciaga couture

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Vetements co-founder Demna Gvasalia continued his rethinking of Balenciaga for autumn with twisted outerwear, deconstructed trenches and printed dresses, but looked back to founder Cristóbal Balenciaga’s archive to celebrate the brand’s 100th anniversary. Couture dresses in bubble silhouettes and voluminous trapeze shapes were brought back to life. The Gvasalia twist? Bold stripes and deep pockets, teamed with matching oversized bags – introducing functional couture.

The big easy

From left: Loewe, Sacai, Valentino

From left: Loewe, Sacai, Valentino

Several designers opted for a roomier take on dresses for autumn, as long and fluid shapes gave a more casual, easy air to modern, elegant shapes. Some were floor-skimming and featured demure high necks and long sleeves, while others came with statement-making asymmetrical hems. And relax.

Tisci’s greatest hits

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In February, Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci left his role after 12 years. The in-house design team has created an interim autumn collection made up of Tisci’s signature looks – delicate lace, graphic sweaters, razor-sharp tailoring and sequinned peplums – all worked in solid blocks of on-trend red. Rumours continue to swirl about what Tisci will do next. Versace? Watch this space.

In the trenches

From left: Stella McCartney, Maison Margiela, Nina Ricci

From left: Stella McCartney, Maison Margiela, Nina Ricci

The trench coat emerged as the outerwear shape of choice in Paris, from the classic in camel, to chopped-up versions at Maison Margiela and Balenciaga, and new styles in unusual fabrics or featuring exaggerated epaulettes and elongated outlines.

Au revoir, Chloé

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Following January’s announcement that she would be leaving after six years in the job, Chloé creative director Clare Waight Keller filled her last collection with swingy 1960s printed dresses and boxy tailored coats in autumnal colours.

Sartorial sisters

From left: Celine, Jacquemus, Lemaire, Isabel Marant

Masculine tailoring has been big business on the catwalks of every city this season, and Parisian designers continued the trend. Boxy blazers with strong shoulders appeared everywhere, while traditional tailoring fabrics such as heritage checks, pinstripes and plaids added to the sartorial mood.

Dries scores a century

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Belgian designer Dries Van Noten celebrated his eponymous brand’s 100th show with something of a retrospective. There was a generation-spanning who’s who of more than 50 of his favourite models from throughout his career on the catwalk, and a selection of his signature eye-catching prints through the years were splashed across the sophisticated collection.

A blue period

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While blue washed over much of Paris Fashion Week, it was best shown at Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second ready-to-wear collection for Dior, where tonal shades of deepest blue were worn head to toe. A chicly commercial colour combo when teamed with black, the look was also spotted at shows including Céline and Nina Ricci.

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