As the autumn 19 catwalk season drew to a close in Paris, Drapers deciphers the key pieces and stand-out trends from the latest womenswear collections.
Leopards, tigers, snakes and other reptiles have been prowling down all of the autumn 19 catwalks – a dominant trend that appears to be sticking around for another season. Outerwear was, once again, a key category for the wild prints and patterns, but Parisian designers also showed matching snake sets, and even a mix and match of feline spots and reptile skins as new ways to work the trend.
Waists were nipped in, feminising the season’s oversized silhouettes in Paris. Off-White and Louis Vuitton everything from chunky knitwear, outerwear and tailoring was belted up.
Peace and love
Pretty bohemian dresses bloomed in several collections, often with a retro 1970s flounce. Full skirt lengths, ballooning sleeves, high necklines and frilled details were all key elements, alongside ditsy prints, winter florals and soft, delicate fabrications.
A mini-trend for capes cropped up in the French capital, shrugged over shoulders in a variety of guises. At Miu Miu and Celine they were sturdy outerwear alternatives, while Loewe worked them as lighter knitwear layers.
There was a plethora of strong outerwear on show across the autumn season, but the greatest – quite literally – were the oversized shapes seen in Paris. Knee, shin and even floor-skimming lengths added a directional spin to classic tailored styles.
An accessories trend of note saw designers finesse looks with statement-making hats. From Dior to Valentino via Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh’s debut at Nina Ricci, feminine bucket hats and over-sized cloche shapes were key.
Made in Britain
Blame it on Brexit, but designers from London to Milan, and now Paris, are using classic British fabrics and patterns across their autumn 19 ranges – from the pinstripes of Savile Row and Scottish tartans, via checks, plaids and heritage houndstooths.
The heavy boots, lashings of leather and goth-meets-grunge looks seen in Milan (at Prada and Versace) appeared to carry over to Paris, where the focus was on biker-style leather jackets. Typically black and trimmed in studs and metal hardware, there were also red leather variations.
A prim and proper air continued to permeate new-season ranges in France, where a feminine, buttoned-up elegance made its way into collections. Demure pencil skirts were teamed with loose blouses and shirts, layered with polite knitwear and accessorised with classic, ladylike handbags.
Bold blocks of scarlet red caught our eye once again in Paris, having made an impact across the season in New York, London and Milan. Joining the signature Valentino red were shades worn head to toe across everything from tailoring to evening dresses.
Designers kept things cosy in Paris, and shaggy shearling and fuzzy fabrics emerged as an outerwear trend to watch. There were riffs on retro aviator jackets at Hedi Slimane’s second collection for Celine, and shaggy capes cropped up at Miu Miu.
Pumped-up, boxy shoulders were joined by boldly curvaceous, rounded styles as part of a focus on directional shoulder shapes in Paris, which adorned oversized outerwear and exaggerated dresses.
Autumn 19’s catwalk collections were once again full of smart suiting and classic tailoring, offering a variety of takes on the trend. From boxy, oversized blazers to sharply cut, body-skimming styles via twisted takes on traditional suiting – Paris offered something to suit everyone.