Catch up on the latest from Paris Fashion Week Men’s with Drapers’ round up of the top trends to know from the city of light.
What would an average working dad wear to pick his kids up from school? That was the question answered time and again this season, as the Paris set presented their new take on normcore, adding to the trend led by Martine Rose in London and Fendi in Milan. Oversized tailoring, baggy shirting, crisp smart jeans and practical, pocketed gilets gave a toned-down, casual workwear feel – a high-end take on the school run.
This sporting life
Tailored tracksuit trousers, racer stripes, zip hoodies and windbreaker jackets gave a distinctly athletic feel to the Paris collections. While young designers have been pioneering the trend for street meets sportswear for several seasons, the luxury French houses, including Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Valentino and Lanvin, are picking up on the casual aesthetic for spring 18.
Paris trend brights
From forest green at Berluti, to banana yellow at Etudes and hazard orange at Walter Van Beirendonck, bright and bold colours made a joyously vivid statement on the catwalks. While they often appeared as accents in neutral collections, some shows, such as Paul Smith, sent a parade of riotous colours down the catwalks.
Paris trend Hawaiian
Brash, bright and bold printed shirts are the latest spin on the 1980s trend that has been permeating the menswear shows. Hawaiian shirts came with intricate tropical designs and in loose fitting, oversized shaping that gave a laid-back, vintage beachy vibe. Spread collar details are also key.
Paris trend leather
Show some skin
While not the first material that springs to mind for the summer months, leather was big news on the French catwalks. Alongside typical biker jackets were more structured, minimalist styles in bold colours, including a boxy violet jacket at Ami Alexandre Mattiussi and a red leather trench at Alexander McQueen, alongside Études, Balenciaga and Berluti’s slick black styles.
Paris trend logo
Brazen brand loyalty meant the big-name designers continued their love affair with logos for spring 18. Balenciaga, Cerruti and Dior showcased their iconic typography on a series of sweaters and jackets, while a “VLTN” T-shirt by Valentino is bound to prove a lure for brand-hungry consumers. More deconstructed logomania featured at White Mountaineering and Sacai.
Paris trend watersports
Watersports at play
Already proving itself a core trend of the season, the sporty, surfer chic aesthetic spotted in London and Milan appeared again in Paris, most notably at Louis Vuitton, where pool slides and wetsuits were paired with slicked-back wet hair for the ultimate luxury surf vibe.
Paris trend suits
In stark contrast to the minimal tailoring, muted neutrals and school-run style that was so prevalent in Paris, some designers took things to elaborate extremes. Suiting appeared in lurid metallic, shimmering sequins, extravagant textures and eye-popping prints. Highlights were a disco-themed Comme des Garçons collection and an intricately embroidered Alexander McQueen design.
Paris trend shorts
The long and short of it
Menswear designers were showing some serious leg this season, as shorts in thigh-grazing lengths appeared time and again. Tailored styles at Thom Browne and Études had a schoolboy vibe, while Dior’s micro-shorts had a more rocky feel, paired with a waistcoat and skinny scarf. Across the collections as a whole, short shorts and long ankle socks were the styling tip to note.