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Paris Men's Fashion Week: Autumn 15

While building on the trends seen so far this season, Paris Men’s Fashion Week added its own twists.

ALL SEWN UP

Patchwork may be one of the more daring trends to emerge from the Paris shows, but the reality is surprisingly wearable. Using tonal swatches of grey and black, Junya Watanabe, Yohji Yamamoto and Kris Van Assche presented patched tailoring that offered a refreshing alternative to the classic dinner suit.

 

Julien David

Julien David

QUILTY CONSCIENCE

As predicted in our Menswear Special (January 17), this season the padded jacket sheds its sporty stereotype in favour of a more sophisticated feel. At 3.1 Phillip Lim and Japanese label Sacai, quilted gilets were layered over knitwear and under woollen coats. Elsewhere, Paul Smith’s long-line padded coat looked both practical and stylish, and Louis Vuitton style director Kim Jones demonstrated how quilting can be worked into a subtle pattern.

 

Phillip Lim

3.1 Phillip Lim

CHECKED OUT

From classic tartan and Prince of Wales checks to modern geometric prints, checks are set to be big news. The beauty of this print lies in its versatility. While there is sure to be a market for Valentino’s bold two-piece suit, buyers can also tap into the trend via a simple plaid shirt, as seen in this more accessible look from French designer Julien David.

 

Agnès B

Agnès B

FLOCK TO SHEARLING

Sheepskin jackets are already confirmed as a key trend, so it came as little surprise to see shearling back on the menu in Paris. Instead of the classic camel coats seen in London and Milan, the Paris collections highlighted the use of this sumptuous material as a textural contrast collar, whether against denim at Dior, wool at Lanvin or leather at Hermès.

 

Hermès

Hermès

THE POWER OF THE PARKA

Confirming its place as a must-have, the parka featured once again at the Paris shows. While the furry, oversized hood is non-negotiable, there is plenty of variety when it comes to fabrics and finishes. Kris Van Assche delivered high-shine technical fabrics, while designers such as Gosha Rubchinskiy opted for luxurious wool, elevating this urban classic from street to smart.


Kris Van Assche

Kris Van Assche

SLOUCHY SUITING

We spotted several pairs of slouchy trousers at the Milan shows, but it was in Paris that the trend for this directional cut was truly cemented. Wooyoungmi’s louche take on tweed and Yohji Yamamoto’s layered suiting both gave off a relaxed, undone air, while Dries Van Noten’s double-breasted cream number is a nod to 1970s disco.

 

Wooyoungmi

Wooyoungmi

LONG STORY


Another important outerwear trend to note is the oversized coat. Seen in London at the likes of Gieves & Hawkes and JW Anderson, super-long silhouettes played a key role at both Raf Simons and Dior Homme in Paris. Although these almost floor-sweeping styles may be a little extreme for some shoppers, Paul Smith’s slightly elongated wool overcoat will have broader appeal.

 

Dior Homme

Dior Homme

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