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Paris Men’s Fashion Week spring 20: nine trends to know

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Sugary pastels, arty layering and luxe leather dominated the Parisian catwalks as some of fashion’s most high-profile names, including Dior, Louis Vuitton and Celine, showed their spring 20 collections in the French capital.

Artistic licence

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A louche, romantic and almost childlike aesthetic pervaded the Paris runways this season, encapsulated by a relaxed, quirky use of layering. Loewe captured this look most succinctly with knits, stripes, and clashing colours and textures that lent a playful, bohemian vibe.

Tickled pink

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Paris was awash with rosy shades across the catwalks. The trend pervaded both tailored and more streetwear styles. Paul Smith’s oversized salmon suiting took the look to the extreme, finished with a shirt and shoes in the same hue. At Li-Ning 1990s-leaning sportswear came in similar candy tones.

French future legion

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The trend for utility dressing endured in Paris. The catwalks presented a fusion of urban and futuristic themes, and added a hint of desert dressing. The look was most notable at Dior, where Kim Jones presented a refined vision of urban utility in his all-white outfits – complete with a gleaming trekking hat.

Spot the leopard

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Leopard has well and truly made its way to staple status across the menswear catwalks this season, following its heavy use in London and Milan. The Parisian designers took a characteristically chic approach, as leopard suiting at Sankuanz and Dries Van Noten, and a cosy abstract leopard jumper at Hedi Slimane’s debut Celine menswear show.

Show some skin

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The catwalk may have been showing for the summer season, but dramatic leather looks were central to many collections. The fabric took a sleek, minimalist direction for spring 20 at Berluti, Jil Sander, Loewe and Raf Simons, which showed clean-lined silhouettes in rich brown and tan tones.

Shirt tales

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Nothing says summer like a floral shirt. That was the message from the Paris designers, with numerous bold and brash shirts on display for spring 20. Floral prints were popular, and silhouettes were relaxed and slouchy. Valentino’s dragon print shirt with a zip fastening was a particular highlight.

Power of flowers

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Bold and dramatic florals stood out on the Paris catwalks. Particularly impactful on outerwear, jewel-toned flowers shone on patent leather and satin textures. Louis Vuitton’s distorted floral trench was a stand-out style, as was Dries Van Noten’s sunflower coat.

The Canadian tuxedo

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Denim, denim and more denim gave the Paris catwalks an indigo hue for spring 20. Fully denim looks were a popular theme – with Balmain and Loewe presenting denim suiting. Elsewhere Valentino’s relaxed triple-denim assembly made the case for bright blue indigo shades and Celine introduced the flare shape for the menswear buyer – a daring alternative to the skinny jean.

Buckets of pale

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Pastels have been the defining trend for spring 20, and Paris presented its candy-coloured offering with added luxury weight. Virgil Abloh’s collection for Louis Vuitton was almost entirely in pastel shades, and Balmain, Berluti and Dior all also focused heavily on a soft, sweet palette for the season ahead.

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