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Pitti Uomo autumn 17: Everything you need to know

 

 

This year’s trade show season kicked off in Florence at the buzzing menswear show Pitti Uomo. Drapers brings you the standout brands and views from the floor

Pitti 2

Pitti 2

The 91st edition of menswear trade show Pitti Uomo attracted a hot fashion crowd to Florence despite the frigid weather. The street style peacocks were out in force in the central square on the first two days – the dedicated dandies rubbed shoulders with sleek-suited Japanese, elegant Scandinavians and off-the-wall extroverts.

By the third day, festivities faded as the clouds came in, but brands Drapers spoke to were pleased with the strong turnout that kickstarted the autumn 17 season.

Buyers from leading retailers including Mr Porter, Fenwick, Trunk Clothing, Thread, Harvey Nichols, End Clothing, Selfridges and Oi Polloi in the UK, as well as international names such as Isetan and United Arrows from Japan, and Barneys New York and Saks Fifth Avenue were all spotted browsing the latest collections.

Organisers tried to warm things up with a #PittiDanceOff installation comprising gently shifting washing-up gloves, mop heads and empty shopping trolleys in the venue’s central square. It did not exactly get the crowd dancing in the aisles but did provide an interesting backdrop for the multitude of photographers trying to spot the elite of the menswear industry.

Exhibitor numbers were broadly comparable with last January at just over 1,200 brands, and there 214 new names such as US giant Tommy Hilfiger and Canadian outerwear label Moose Knuckles. Other highlights on show included Paul Smith’s contemporary line PS by Paul Smith, and collections from celebrated Belgian designer Tim Coppens, lifestyle label Golden Goose and London’s Cottweiler for Reebok.

Although wide-leg trousers, speciality fibres such as yak and increased interest from texture were common themes running through collections, some commented on a lack of strong new trends once again as both brands and buyers sought to play it safe.

Pitti Uomo ran on 10-13 January at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence. Read Drapers’ coverage below.

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