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Première Vision and Texworld: autumn 16 highlights

From double-size birdseye checks and snowboard denim to micro sequins and metallic threads, Drapers rounds up fabric trends from the autumn 16 editions of Paris exhibitions Première Vision (September 15-17) and Texworld (September 14-17).

Oversized birdseye check from Joseph H. Clissold

Oversized birdseye check from Joseph H Clissold

Première Vision: Joseph H Clissold

Led by designer Kenneth Forsyth, Joseph H Clissold has proved a hotbed of creativity for autumn 16. From spiral diamonds and dice weaves to ghost dots and large-scale herringbones, the West Yorkshire weaver has ramped up the design elements of its cloths to offer customers the unexpected. Standout qualities include an unusual double-sized birdseye, using two colours in the warp and one in the weft to create a two-tone effect, and a wool denim woven with a four-fold yarn to give good crease recovery.

Minimum: 70m

01274 721455

Snowboard denim by Tejidos Royo

Snowboard denim by Tejidos Royo

Première Vision: Tejidos Royo

While wearing jeans on a ski slope may seem like an alien concept, Spanish denim specialist Tejidos Royo asked customers to think outside the box with its latest innovation: snowboard denim. The seamless fabric is created by weaving together two layers of fabric – one organic cotton, the other a mixture of Invista’s Coolmax and Thermolite insulating fabrics – in a sandwich-like construction that is both breathable and fast-drying. Another highlight is the 360-degree-stretch Hug Denim, which mixes two-ply combed cotton with Lycra in both the warp and weft to give a bi-stretch effect designed for athleisure garments.

Minimum: 1,000-3,000m

020 7723 1225

Pascaline Wilhelm, fashion director of Première Vision

Pascaline Wilhelm, fashion director of Première Vision

Viewpoint: Pascaline Wilhelm, fashion director of Première Vision

“We’re seeing the subtler use of technology, for example to make a fabric lighter, softer or more supple, so the overall look is more sophisticated. Our exhibitors are also investing a lot in the evolution of colour, through finishing techniques, embroidery or prints. The notion of 3D in colour and the revolution of digital printing are also very important.”

Lace bonded onto a polyurethane base fabric from Doorim Tec

Lace bonded onto a polyurethane base fabric from Doorim Tec

Première Vision: Doorim Tec

Counting Karen Millen among its clients, Première Vision newcomer Doorim Tec showcased a stylish selection of polyurethane synthetic leather and suedette cloth featuring printing, foils and laser etching. Standout fabrics from the South Korean manufacturer include a silver foil-printed black velvet, a quilted suedette coated with a blue metallic foil and an aqua polyurethane base fabric bonded with a layer of navy blue lace.

Minimum: 300-500m

020 7723 1225

Super stretch denim from Foison Textile

Super-stretch denim from Foison Textile

Texworld: Foison Textile

Chinese denim specialist Foison Textile showed off its skill for blending, mixing cotton, polyester and cellulosic fibre Tencel for soft-drape denim. Another cloth in the autumn 16 collection blended cellulosic fibre Modal with cotton and polyester to create a soft lightweight 7.10z denim in candy pink, suited to both jeans and shirts. Foison also embraced colour, presenting a cherry-red 9.40z blend incorporating 46% cotton, 44% Tencel, 2% polyester and 8% Lycra DualFX to give the jeans a super-stretch quality and strong recovery, ideal for skinny styles.

Minimum: 3,000m

+852 9462 1930

Magee Weaving's bright plaid

Magee’s bright plaid

Première Vision: Magee

Irish weaver Magee caught the trend for oversized patterns with its jumbo herringbone plaid with an overcheck in a larger yarn size. This overcheck is a twist yarn, blended from wool, alpaca and lambswool, chosen to add texture and give a graphic appearance. The fabric has already been used for a bomber jacket. Another standout cloth features a 100% lambswool giant square patchwork with a traditional herringbone texture in muted berry shades, designed for jackets, waistcoats, coats and skirts.

Minimum: 100m

+353 749721100

A cross stitch rose design on an organza base from Schwarzschild Ochs

A cross-stitch rose design on an organza base from Schwarzschild Ochs

Première Vision: Schwarzschild Ochs

The Dolce & Gabbana trend for floral brocade and heavy embroidery caught the imagination of visitors to the Schwarzschild Ochs stand. A charming cross-stitched pink and red rose motif on a clear organza base and a rich blooming rose on a black mesh base proved particularly popular. The company’s signature micro sequins were also in demand, particularly on a cloth incorporating clustered micro sequins forming a floral design, stitched onto a feather-light cobweb mesh base.

No minimum

020 7387 2775

Beryl Gibson

Beryl Gibson

Beryl Gibson, textile consultant

“Colour is becoming much more sophisticated and the British mills in particular are more confident in their use of it. As a result, colour has calmed down and for the autumn 16 season we are seeing more smoky shades and darker palettes, but the mills have amped up the design features in terms of texture and pattern.”

Sherry Alpaca from Holland and Sherry

Sherry Alpaca from Holland & Sherry

Première Vision: Holland & Sherry 

Rare fibres in unusual blends were the order of the day at Holland & Sherry. For the first time in 30 years, the Scottish mill brought alpaca back into the collection with its Sherry Alpaca blend of wool, alpaca and silk. The lofty handle of alpaca, woven in a two and two twill, gives the fabric substance, while the bright scarlet and maroon houndstooth adds a sense of style. Other highlights for autumn 16 are Fusion, a Super 160s merino, cashmere and silver mink, and Chequers, a milled version of the same fabric, which diffuses the design to give a softer, retro feel.

Minimum: 20cm

07843 462242

Starburst hand embroidered design from ABM International Trading

Starburst hand-embroidered design from ABM International Trading

Texworld: ABM International Trading

The Mumbai-based embroidery specialist stood out from the crowd with a stunning starburst design in royal blue on a tulle base. Embroidered by hand, the constellation of stars is brought to life by mixing micro sequins and delicate circular beads to form the small stars and large midnight blue diamond-shaped beads for the centre of the larger stars. Other highlights from the selection include a design of silver and pewter beads and sequins joined by seams of delicate metallic thread, and a clustered floral design in gold, pink and apple green, featuring large sequins in the shape of leaves and scattered crystals.

Minimum: 6m

+91 22 66972803

Lumix stretch denim from Kipas Sportswear

Lumix stretch denim from Kipas Sportswear

Première Vision: Kipaş Sportswear

High elasticity, comfort and an ultra-soft finish are the key characteristics of the new Lumix concept from Turkish denim specialist Kipaş Sportswear. The company reported a great reaction from high street retailers for this mix of cotton, cotton-coated polyester and elastane, designed to be soft due to the combination of double cotton and offering power stretch recovery courtesy of the elastane. While this fabric is aimed at women’s skinny jeansmakers, the weaver is also working on a men’s comfort stretch variety using slightly less elastane to retain the feel of traditional denim.

Minimum: 3,000-5,000m

07803 983807

Electric blue intended for light weight bomber jackets

Nylstar electric blue cloth, intended for lightweight bomber jackets

Première Vision: Nylstar

Spanish nylon yarn specialist Nylstar set its sights on the premium fashion market with its new Meryl Signature collection of fabrics for ready-to-wear. Designed for dresses and swimwear, Nylstar’s take on neoprene is a lighter-weight, more breathable alternative mixing its nylon Meryl yarn with elastane. The Meryl Signature collection also features two fabrics made from 100% Meryl Air nylon yarn, a feather-light electric blue cloth intended for bomber jackets and a digitally printed wispy floral pattern fabric for kaftans and beachwear.

Minimum: 300m

+34 972 358 200

Digitally printed chiffon by Shaoxing County Greet-Treasure

Digitally printed chiffon by Shaoxing County Greet-Treasure

Texworld: Shaoxing County Greet-Treasure Import & Export

Digitally printed chiffon was the specialism on display at China’s Greet-Treasure, which boasted an array of attractive designs including a hand-drawn paisley in coral and yellow, and a simple colour-blocking cornflower blue poppy motif. The manufacturer’s cotton and polyester fabric followed the same floral theme, this time digitally printed with a large-scale orchid, peony and fern pattern in inky blue and yellow, and overlaid with white floral embroidery.

Minimum: 1,000m

+86 18606 755085

A light weight twist on the traditional men's jacketing from Robert Noble

A lightweight twist on the traditional men’s jacketing from Robert Noble

Première Vision: Robert Noble

Bought earlier this month by Magee, Robert Noble decided to look back at its rich archives for autumn 16 as the mill sought to give its classic cloths a modern twist. Responding to the trend for lighter-weight jacketing, head of design Elspeth Anderson refreshed the traditional gamekeeper tweed in a lighter version with a soft refined finish, which still includes the texture and complex colour of twist yarns, without adding to the weight.

Minimum: 100m

01721 720146

Art Nouveau inspired poppy bud design from Fabra Tekstil

Art Nouveau inspired poppy bud design from Fabra Tekstil

Texworld: Fabra Tekstil

Based in Turkey’s textile heartland Bursa, jacquard weaving specialist Fabra showcased a selection of strong graphic womenswear fabrics in black and white with hints of blue. A standout from the collection is a lightweight polyester and elastane fabric woven with a fluid poppy-bud design, clearly influenced by art nouveau florals. Other highlights include a bold diamond motif with the appearance of a deconstructed houndstooth in cotton, polyester and elastane, and a graphic geometric repeat pattern, with a daisy inset in the centre of the diamond.

Minimum: 300-700m

+90 533 374 9950

Graphic houndstooth from Harris Tweed Hebrides

Graphic houndstooth from Harris Tweed Hebrides

Première Vision: Harris Tweed Hebrides

A thriving fashion accessories business has influenced the autumn 16 range from Harris Tweed Hebrides, which features smaller-scale patterns that can cross over from handbags and purses to dresses and jackets. Strength of colour is another characteristic of the season, epitomised by a graphic houndstooth in dusty pink and lilac or navy and aqua with a retro 1970s vibe. Another key piece is a micro herringbone with flecks of colour running through to give added depth, a look achieved by using yarns combining up to eight different shades.

Minimum: 50m

01851 702862

Laser etched denim developed by Cotton Incorporated

Laser-etched denim developed by Cotton Incorporated

Première Vision: Cotton Incorporated

Laser technology continues to excite the research and development team at US cotton authority Cotton Incorporated, who have been working with Italian laser finishing specialist Jeanologia on a series of prototypes for the athleisure market. One development includes a 100% cotton fabric woven to give the appearance of knitted denim and then distressed with a laser. Based in North Carolina, the R&D team have recently purchased their own laser, which they have been using to etch patterns, striations and holes into the fabric surface.

+1 919 678 2433

Fancy furry wool yarns highlighted by the Wool Lab trend tool

Fancy furry wool yarns highlighted by The Wool Lab trend tool

Première Vision: Wool Lab

Birgit Gahlen, key account manager at The Woolmark Company, sums up the three key trends in wool fabrics and yarns for autumn 16.

Latest effects: Laser cut, bonding, printing on wool, tufted yarns and fancy furry yarns.

Influence of active sportswear: Promoting the performance benefits of merino as a breathable, water-resistant fibre ideal for multi-functional garments.

Blending: Blend of wool with other natural fibres such as silk, alpaca and cotton to create trans-seasonal garments. The blend with cotton, in particular, has been requested by denim fabric manufacturers to utilise the machine washability and warmth of wool.



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