The autumn 17 edition of Première Vision Paris drew the crowds to view the newest textiles and prints
Première Vision Paris assembled 2,000 exhibitors offering everything from the latest textile fabrications and print designs to fibre developments, leather and accessories last week.
Buyers from UK multiples were in attendance: Marks & Spencer, Next, Asos and Topshop, as well as buying group AIS, Seraphine and Paul Smith. Oranisers said that luxury brands were out in force early on at the show and most exhibitors reported busy stands.
The number of exhibitors was down slightly to 1,898 from 1,924 last year but some reported bigger crowds this season, particularly from Asia and eastern Europe. Some commented that there were fewer domestic and US buyers than in previous seasons, and suggested it may have been down to security concerns.
Eser Ogucu, marketing team lead at Sanko Tekstil, praised the number of international buyers present.
“We’ve definitely seen everyone who we wanted to see. There’s been groups from around the world, mainly from east and north Europe, but also lots from Turkey – our domestic market – and some from Russia.”
The event’s organisers identified two distinct colour stories as trends for this year’s show. Muted pinks, blue and purples contrasted with splashes of bright fuchsia and sky blue. Autumnal burnt oranges and light brown were also popular, as were bright, cobalt blue and teal, which Drapers spotted repeatedly around the show.
Pascaline Wilhelm, Première Vision Paris fashion director
Pascaline Wilhelm, fashion director of Première Vision Paris
“Fashion is going through a great deal of change at the moment – it’s in what I like to call a ‘happy mess’. Rules about gender and materials are changing and autumn 17 is going be a more creative and less traditional season. Colours are sophisticated. It’s not the time for high shine gold and silver. It’s about muted metallics and blues, pale pinks and chocolate browns.
Silks will be very big. It’s a less casual season that isn’t as concerned with being ‘cool’ and focuses more on structure and tailoring. Outerwear has been very interesting. We’ve seen large yarns, checks and puffy fabrics to make really oversized garments and on the other hand, some very light fabrics that feel like a second skin. Linings are also becoming more interesting. Bright linings are one way to play with colour and we’ve also seen different textures, like fleecy knits or shearling.
There is a touch of fantasy even in everyday fabrics. Decorative jacquards have been big for blouses, trousers and casual dresses. Similarly, in eveningwear laces and embroidery have been very popular, although still sticking to the more muted colour palette.
In menswear, there’s been a return to tailoring and some really interesting shine effects on traditional twills and herringbones. We’ve seen something similar with wools, which have a lustre or lighter threads running through them to provide points of light.
There has been a real move towards leathers that feel natural and untreated. Even if they have been treated, they need to feel as untouched as possible.”