Throughout this season’s edition of Première Vision, there was a strong focus on sustainable innovation and textiles.
The dedicated Smart Creation area brought 50 of these businesses together in one place, but innovations were dotted across all five halls of the show. Drapers selects five stand out sustainable exhibitors from the show.
We Are SpinDye
Swedish ingredient brand We Are SpinDye aims to provide its customers with “clean colours” by using a unique dying method that vastly reduces water consumption, chemical usage and carbon dioxide emissions. In its process, called “master batch”, the colour is spun directly into the recycled polyester yarns as they are produced. This process eliminates traditional bath dying from the production process, reducing water usage by 70%, chemical usage by 90% and carbon dioxide footprint by 30%.
As the colour is embedded within the yarns, SpinDye fabrics are colour fast, and resistant to sunlight and washing. These attributes have made the technique a popular tool in the outdoorwear sector and brands using the fabrics include Fjällräven, as well as Filippa K’s sustainable line.
Italian wool producer Manteco has revolutionised its production in recent seasons, and for autumn 20, 80% of its entire collection will be made from post-consumer waste wool.
Working with certified suppliers of waste wool from around the globe, the company takes the old materials and respins them into new yarns at its headquarters in Prato, Italy. Rather than re-dying the textiles, yarns of different colours are blended to create new shades, thus saving water and chemicals.
For autumn 20, it is collaborating with Lenzing for a wool and Tencel blend range, which it hopes will increase the usability of its fabrics for the end consumer by creating warmer and softer yarns.
This Viennese dye house prides itself on using completely ecological, plant-based dyes in its fabric production. Working with organic merino wool yarns, it has developed colourfast, light-resistant dyes that are derived from a variety of plant extracts. The yarns are dyed on the cone, which also saves water in the production.
In addition to dying yarns for sale, the company also produces its own womenswear clothing collection – Rudolf – which uses entirely plant-based dyed materials.
Greek cotton supplier Varvaressos is seeking to clean up the notoriously murky cotton industry with a closely monitored, traceable supply chain.
The business produces cotton in Greece, using drip irrigation systems that deliver water and fertiliser directly to the cotton plants, thereby using 40% less water than is typically needed. To help minimise carbon emissions, all cotton is grown and spun within a 193km radius.
In addition, the company has introduced QR code traceability for its partners. Consumers can scan a QR code on items and see the precise origin, amount of water saved, name of mill and distance travelled by the cotton in the item.
Piece & Co
US fabric production company Piece & Co acts as a social enterprise, and supports local communities and artisan techniques. It works with more than 5,000 artisan producers in 16 countries to create its fabrics, all of which comply with rigorous social, sustainable and ethical standards.
One fabric on display, an Indian batik, was created with 100% Global Organic Textile Standard cotton by nine artisans in India. The producers also work with a network of local subcontractors and suppliers in the production of the cotton to ensure a low carbon footprint.
Recycling was a huge buzzword across the show, and Recover took an interesting spin on the trend, creating new yarns out of waste fabrics. Recover collects pre- and post-consumer cotton waste and scraps of ready-dyed fabrics and spins them into new fibres, so there is no need to re-dye them. The business focuses on collecting waste from partners whose supply chains have low environmental impacts.
A partnership with the University of Valencia is helping the business to develop a tool to track energy and water savings, and is also working to introduce a tool to collect its own unused products from customers.