The spring 18 edition of Première Vision combined a popping colour palette with fibre innovations and fabric developments
Acid green and shocking fuchsia sat alongside heady mauve, morning blue, salmon pink and air grey in the trend area of the spring 18 edition of Paris textile trade show Première Vision, heralding a new mood of optimism and energy for the season ahead.
The influence of international colour authority Pantone’s colour of 2017, Greenery, was felt throughout the trend presentations: many displays referenced tropical prints, digitised botanicals and plant-inspired patterns against a backdrop of live foliage.
The event brought together 1,678 exhibitors – 112 from the UK – covering the entire textile supply chain, from yarns, fabrics and leather through to design, accessories and manufacturing at Parc Des Expositions from 7 to 9 February.
This season there was a big push on fashionable wearable technology in the “Wearable Lab” section, which featured 10 examples of clothing and accessories, and a showroom of four start-ups.
Japanese knitting machinery manufacturer Shima Seiki attracted visitors to its stand with its Wholegarment knitting machine, which stood out as machinery is not usually on show at Première Vision.
The exhibition floor was busy, but some commented that it was quieter than in recent seasons, and security fears cannot have helped. There did not seem to be as heavy a security presence visible at the show as at last September’s edition, although bags were checked thoroughly at the entrance and there were personnel in the venue.
Buyers from Marks & Spencer, Jigsaw, Boden, FatFace and some of the Arcadia brands were spotted perusing the stands, while Première Vision regulars Sir Paul Smith and Nigel Cabourn were also in attendance.
The UK mills had a good reason to make some noise this season: three were celebrating significant anniversaries. Yorkshire-based cashmere and wool specialist Joshua Ellis marks its 250th anniversary this year, while Lochcarron of Scotland, known for its authentic Scottish tartans, is celebrating 70 years in business, and Abraham Moon & Sons, one of the last remaining vertical woollen mills, has reached the age of 180.
The next shows will be held on 19-21 September and 13-15 February 2018.
Light and simple
Helen Palmer, director of materials, textiles and knit at trend forecaster WGSN
Lightness, simplicity, texture and the blurring of categories are some of the over-arching influences on the market for spring 18: there is a mood of femininity and volume influencing airy layering and dimensional structures.
Vegetal and natural blends become more sophisticated in texture, surface and lightness. Complimentary natural and technical yarn blends drive a new everyday luxury, while papery, dry and crisp crepe handles marry with subtle sheen or metallic glimmer to bring a sophistication and modernity to the naturals.
On the other side of the scale, we see a new emphasis of softness and comfort for textiles, played out through soft hand washes, peach- and suede-touch finishes on silk and cellulose blends, and terry, plush and velvety yarn inclusions across many categories.
Surface texture adds character and differentiation to core and novel fabrics as we continue to see discreet novel yarn inclusions, microtexture constructions and innovative finishes promising a new level of tactility for all market sectors. Linked to this, more colour effects are emerging, as a new wave of discreet chine, jaspé and mouliné yarns add a level of complexity to classics, creating hatched, etched and ikat effects
The lines between traditional formal, casual and sportswear categories blurs as the casualisation and relaxed comfort of formalwear continues to evolve along with a smarter direction for casualwear textiles, and sports performance and lifestyle fabrics further their reach within the ready-to-wear markets. In addition to this, a more androgynous or gender-neutral influence continues to break down barriers between the menswear and womenswear markets, along with increased drape, softness and comfort.
Last season’s formal pattern indulgence makes way for a renewed interest in a more artisan approach. Hand-drawn outlines, painterly water colour brushstrokes and abstracted stylised florals are key looks, sometimes in bolder scales and open, airy placements. Following from this we are seeing lighter or sheer grounds for heavier lace or embroideries, as well as fil coupé floats for a more diaphanous look. Transcultural patterns are also important, made modern this season with bolder scales, digital or glitched visuals for prints and hand-loom artisan tweeds, offering a new take on global references.
Première Vision spring 18