The spring 20 edition of textile trade show Première Vision took place in Paris on 12-14 February 2019. Drapers rounds up the trends and talking points from the show.
The spring 20 take on florals is bold, bright and dramatic. Oversized flowers, clashing colours and swirling, distorted prints make for eye-catching and unusual designs. Classic flowers such as pansies and daisies appear in swirling, eclectic colour combinations. Some designs take a darker approach to the trend, and make use of decaying bouquets and sinister sharply outlined petals. Eyelet embroideries, cotton cut-outs and geometric embroidery are popular for the season, while 3D floral patches in exaggerated volumes also appear in accessories.
A perennially popular pattern, stripes are fresh and playful for spring 20. They appear across lace and silky fabrics in styles ranging from deck-chair bold to subtle wide bands. Stripes are also used on less-typical textiles: for example on lace or pleated materials, giving a sense of geometric movement. Pre-printed designs such as florals disrupt the patterns with hatched or barred striping.
All that glitters, glistens or shimmers makes an opulent impact for the new season. Embroidery, silk and lace feature metallics and monochromatic shimmers, creating iridescent and crystallised finishes. Patterns are less central here, hidden under lace or sparkles, beading or sequins. Embroideries and guipure lace are adorned with mother of pearl – a hybrid of raw and refined finishing.
Traditional textile designs and international art are a popular trend for the new season that give a sense of exotic excitement. Lush palms, foliage and saturated-colour flowers allude to tropical climates. Zebras, giraffes and parrots are popular motifs, and tribal-inspired embroidery and lace, featuring abstract geometric shapes, are also key. Indonesian and African influences are particularly popular, and designs feature stylised but crisp, neat designs in a vibrant array of colours.
In a season brimming with exotic influences and dramatic florals, colours are unsurprisingly dazzling for spring 20. Flat-tint motifs appear on a vast scale, giving an abstract effect, while motifs such as florals and foliage feature bold colour combinations that add a graphic effect. Collage effects, solid tints, texture and traces of brush strokes add dimension to designs.
Leathers are finished with an opulent gleam: iridescent and luminescent fabrications are a key trend. Pearl finishes, marbling and silver leaf details all feature, but gold tones are softened and mattified for a subtler approach. Leather is feather-light: stretch lambs’ leather is particularly popular, moving away from the more technical, rubbery textures of previous seasons.
There’s nothing natural about this season’s take on nature. Animals are drawn with a playful character, and are adorned with jewels, fantastical patterns and mythical inspirations (chimeras and extinct insects are popular). Outlines are precise and delicate, offsetting the wild and unusual subject.
Dizzyingly subtle colour combinations bring a hypnotic and captivating haze to fabrics. Delicate colour changes, tonal graduation running the entire length or width of fabric and watercolour spray gives a soft-focus finish. Everyday fabrics feature paler and more muted tie-dyes compared with recent seasons, and eveningwear fabrics are subtle and simple – so much so they almost appear plain, but feature minute nuances in their tones.
A tale of two denims
Spring 20 denim is a story of contrasts. Uniform treatments: soft and regular washes and snowy whites are popular. However, alongside this drama reigns supreme, with jacquards, prints and embroidery appearing on denim to give a multi-tonal finish.
Synthetic fabrics have long dominated the sports and performance world, but a new wave of natural fibres with technical advancement are making headway in textiles. Wool, cotton and linen give a soft and sophisticated look with added performance elements. Breathability, rain and wind resistance are key properties of the new technical natural fabrics.
The mood from Première Vision
Peter Ackroyd, global strategic advisor, Woolmark
PV is truly a global event now, and still has high-quality standards for exhibitor entries. It delivers high-quality buyers and visitors, and also provides good-quality sportswear buyers, which is great for us for our “sports wool lab”.
No buyer comes to PV without sustainability high on the agenda and wool is naturally sustainable and renewable and non flammable.
Regarding Brexit: 93% of what we wear in the UK is imported, so of course it will have an impact on the way we trade.
Michela Delle Donne, marketing director, Eurojersey
The mood is good on day one. It is very dynamic and we have had a varied supply of customers. Customers and buyers come from the US Germany, France and UK. We have seen plenty of Italians, as we are an Italian brand
For now, the issue of Brexit hasn’t affected us, but we shall see after March. We work closely with UK brand Sweaty Betty, and we can only see an increase in our trade with them.