Your browser is no longer supported. For the best experience of this website, please upgrade to a newer version or another browser.

Your browser appears to have cookies disabled. For the best experience of this website, please enable cookies in your browser

We'll assume we have your consent to use cookies, for example so you won't need to log in each time you visit our site.
Learn more

Smart purchases: buyers' picks of spring 20 menswear

Buyers from Harrods, Matchesfashion, Browns, Selfridges, Mr Porter and Machine-A share the stand-out collections, key trends and top product buys from the men’s catwalk season.

Simon Longland, head of menswear, Harrods

Simon longland head of menswear and sports at harrods crop

How would you sum up the spring 20 season?

[There was] confirmation of the transition from the sports and streetwear trend that has defined menswear for several seasons towards an elegant, refined and fluid approach. It was refreshing to see this change across a broad spectrum of brands and aesthetics.

What were your favourite collections?

In London, Edward Crutchley set the tone for decadent and luxurious tailoring that featured in almost every other show. In Milan, Fendi embodied one of the moods of the season, which was escape, whether to a far-away place or, in Fendi’s case, to nature in a garden. The colour palette was drawn from nature: shades of khaki, earth and stone. With design details drawing from workwear and utility, while transporting us to the green surroundings that made up the colour palette of the collection.”

Fendi spring 20

Fendi spring 20

In Paris, Dior was an elegant and emotive affair. The styling edged on futuristic with boxy tailoring and muted colours.

What trends stood out?

The shift from literal streetwear was marked by a return to elegance: fluid shapes, rich fabrics, and modern tailoring with loose silhouettes and oversized shirts.

The colours were placed on two ends of the scale: neutrals and white paired with khaki as seen at Fendi, or bold statements using head-to-toe colour blocking and print.

Loewe spring 20

Loewe spring 20

What were your key pieces of the season?

The summer coat, such as a billowing technical parka in pastel colour or all-over print [as seen in collections such as Fendi]. The Dior x Rimowa hard case bag and the tunics from Loewe.

 

 Damien Paul, head of menswear, Matchesfashion

Damien paul, head of menswear, matchesfashion

Damien paul, head of menswear, matchesfashion

How would you sum up the spring 20 season?

I thought it was all quite exciting – it’s always nice to seek out the interesting and the innovative and to watch partner brands move and develop. I do many showroom appointments as well as the shows. It’s more than just the catwalk, so I see a lot of product. Paris was stand-out brilliant: a truly invigorating market full of new ideas and exciting shifts in menswear. Paired with the worst traffic I’ve ever known, it was a hectic eight days.

What were your favourite collections?

In London, both Bianca Saunders and Craig Green stood out. Craig has a strong sense of his brand identity, propelling it forward season upon season. It’s influenced by the external world but is ultimately his vision.

Marni gettyimages 1156153830

Marni spring 20

In Milan, I just loved Marni and the fact that, while there were multiple layers and fabrics and bags being dragged around, the clothes were anchored by strong tailoring.

Paris is hard because I loved so many collections: Rochas for beautiful and brilliantly crafted modern luxury in amazing unexpected fabrics; Rick Owens for mixing sequins, leather and multi-laced panels with a Champion collaboration – the show was bold and intoxicating; Loewe for evolving fashion and craft in an unexpected way; and also Ludovic de Saint Sernin for developing a strong identity that stretches beyond gender and celebrates sensuality.

What trends stood out?

I can see commercial value in all the trends I liked. The pink and orange [palette] first emerged in London and never went away. Leather for summer, which may seem odd but is entirely sensible given that a lot of this product drops in January. Boots for summer – again more sensible than you’d think. And personally, I loved the long, flowing shirts we saw in a lot of collections. Finally, hats are the new trainers – they were everywhere.

Ludovic de saint sernin gettyimages 1157838445

Ludovic de Saint Sernin spring 20

What were your key pieces of the season?

Where to start? Anything from the brilliant Lemaire, the longer-length shirt from Jil Sander, a collectable one-off painted T-shirt finished by Raf [Simons] himself, some Loewe suede, some Bode trousers, some Ludovic de Saint Sernin silk, Fendi in general …

 

Fiona Firth, buying director, Mr Porter

Fiona firth buying director mr porter 2016crop

How would you sum up the spring 20 season?

This season felt like a true celebration of spring and summer – colour and texture were central themes for most collections and there was a sense of lightness woven throughout a number of shows and presentations.

What were your favourite collections?

I always look forward to seeing Oliver Spencer’s collection come to life in London – he is a master at creating modern, relaxed tailoring pieces in great colourways that men really want to wear.

Gettyimages 1148743663

Oliver Spencer spring 20

[Florence menswear trade show] Pitti Uomo provides us with an opportunity to connect with some of our most-loved Italian brands. Altea and Brunello Cucinelli always resonate exceptionally well with our customers, and I’m really looking forward to bringing both spring 20 collections to Mr Porter.

Brioni’s presentation was a particular highlight for me in Milan – the collection included beautifully constructed tailoring pieces in a range of ultra-luxe fabrics. I also enjoyed Fendi’s elegant, outdoor-inspired silhouettes and Massimo Alba’s relaxed casualwear in an amazing colour palette.

Raf Simons and Loewe stood out this season in Paris, as each collection rang true to the designer’s aesthetic and vision without comprising the commercial viability of the range. Sacai was another favourite show of mine for its great outerwear and strong use of layered tailored and casual pieces.

Gettyimages 1157585913

Sacai spring 20

What trends stood out?

Soft, muted pastels in pink and green were used throughout a number of key collections, especially within tailoring and lightweight knitwear. We also saw the return of fluid, lightweight trousers and shorts with added volume – longer, pleated and rolled-up shorts were all particularly dominant this season, as were the draped, silky boxer-styles we saw styled alongside printed shirts and chunky summer sandals.

What were your key pieces of the season?

Soft, unstructured jackets that can be worn as shirts. Elegant tailoring or shirt and trouser sets in pastel tones. Voluminous trousers – think drawstring waists, cargo-style pockets and workwear-inspired pieces.

 

Lee Goldup, menswear buyer, Browns

Lee goldup mw buyer brownsfashioncrop

How would you sum up the spring 20 season?

I’ve found the spring 20 season incredibly creative and inspiring – all the fashion weeks were very busy and well attended. I’m looking forward to seeing the customer engage with the brands and products we’ve bought into when they go into store. 

What were your favourite collections?

In London, Kiko Kostadinov – I loved the collection again this season and felt it was one of his strongest yet. It had an amazing combination of strong colour palette, fabric and shapes. I particularly liked the jockey-inspired satin pieces.

Gettyimages 1154458461

Kiko Kostadinov spring 20

In Milan, it was Prada. Although the brand showed in Shanghai and only did a presentation in Milan, it was the best thing I saw. The colour-blocked nylon and Gore-Tex was incredible.

Alyx stood out in Paris. For the second season in a row I was incredibly impressed. Designer Matthew Williams’ take on modern tech tailoring and elevated streetwear is where it’s at right now. I also loved seeing his wife, Jennifer, walk the show, as she’s such an important part of their team.

What trends stood out?

Boxer shorts, satin shirts, draped double-breasted jackets, vests, mint green, lightweight long coats – spring 20 has been an exciting season and we are always thinking of how the Browns customer will wear these different pieces, so we want to make sure there is lots on offer.

What were your key pieces of the season?

I particularly love the belted coat at Alyx, the quilted pink jacket at Craig Green, red leather parka at Bottega Veneta and the floral print Jacquemus jacket. It is hard not to pick something from Jacquemus, which was the most Instagrammed show of the season – his setting [a lavender field in Provence, France] was visually stunning.

 

Jack Cassidy, buying manager for men’s designer, designer street and tailoring, Selfridges

Jack cassidy2

Jack cassidy2

How would you sum up the spring 20 season?

Spring 20 was a really strong season – everyone seems to be on the same page. I’m really excited to see the product land on the shop floor.

What were your favourite collections?

We have worked with A Cold Wall for some time now and were so thrilled to open its first ever retail concept space last October. Designer Samuel Ross and his team really didn’t disappoint this season in London.

Gettyimages 1154998832

A Cold Wall spring 20

Versace’s show in Milan was an impeccable showcase of what the brand is all about – bold colours and amazing graphics all put together in the iconic Versace way that was a lot of fun, and a real highlight of the all Milan shows.

In Paris, Kim Jones at Dior seems to be going from strength to strength. We were really excited to see his collaboration with artist Daniel Arsham.

What trends stood out?

This season was a very bold season. Whether it be bright colour blocking, full pastel looks or graphic prints, more is most definitely more for spring 20.

Gettyimages 1157439128

Dior Men’s spring 20

What were your key pieces of the season?

The Martine Rose clown print T-shirt, Dior Men suit, and Raf Simons T-shirt.

 

Stavros Karelis, buying director, Machine-A

Stavros karelis crop

How would you sum up the spring 20 season?

This season’s menswear shows were extremely strong, and many brands set the bar quite high. London and Paris were hectic, especially combining the on-schedule shows with the gems discovered at cool presentations and independent shows.

What were your favourite collections?

For London, the show that stood out for me was Stefan Cooke. The craftsmanship, ideas, shapes, use of material and colours and the execution was at such a level, it was my absolute highlight.

Gettyimages 1157842931

Alyx spring 20

In Paris, Raf Simons’ show was absolutely incredible. It was a testimony to why he is the favourite designer of different generations of people and considered to be one of the best and most influential menswear designers. He created an extremely sophisticated collection. His core audience fell in love instantly and his new audience will follow.

At Dior, Kim Jones showed one of the strongest collections I have ever seen. He has the ability to create a collection that feels secure. Super strong, pushing the boundaries of creativity in a settled yet substantial way and creating desire in all of us to want everything. He is a mastermind of menswear.

Matthew Williams of Alyx also had a fantastic show. He is undoubtedly the designer of the moment for the young generation of customers.

Finally, I think Kenneth Ize is one of the most promising stars of this generation. He presented incredible craftsmanship at [trade show] CIFF Paris.

What trends stood out?

Pastels are a great look this season. Tailoring is at its highest peak – knitwear, too. Shoes and bags are the strongest products in terms of commercial value. I think shirts, tailoring, tailored coats and knitwear will be in huge demand – every piece that can be used as good layering.

What were your key pieces of the season?

Raf Simons’ sleeveless coats with pins and sample fabrics. Dior x Rimowa bags and boiler suits. Alyx black crocodile leather jacket. Stefan Cooke’s brown diamanté-cut knit and button-chain bag straps.

Have your say

You must sign in to make a comment

Please remember that the submission of any material is governed by our Terms and Conditions and by submitting material you confirm your agreement to these Terms and Conditions. Links may be included in your comments but HTML is not permitted.