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Spring 16: Première Vision roundup

The crème de la crème of fabric manufacturers put on a show at the latest edition of Première Vision in Paris.


Hand-drawn tribal and decorative patterns in paisleys (pictured) and William Morris-style designs are proving popular for this Dalston-based print studio, which sells to big UK high street retailers for swimwear, dresses, accessories and skirts. Ink also has demand for 1970s-style prints like a psychedelic paisley in orange and red tones. Established two years ago in London, Ink’s seven-strong team creates 30 to 50 designs a week, often from drawings or photographs. All samples are digitally printed on silk by The Silk Bureau in Worcestershire.


Liberty Art Fabrics

The first collection from new Liberty Art Fabrics head of design Tessa Birch celebrates modern and impressionist art under the name The Artist. Birch, who joined in March 2014, has split the collection into 10 design stories, each screen or digitally printed in the UK and Italy on a cotton Tana Lawn base. Fornasetti Forest (pictured), inspired by artist Piero Fornasetti and the landscapes of painter Henri Rousseau, is a standout. The hand-painted design combines ferns and leaves with small areas of geometric detail. Birch has pulled out smaller elements of larger patterns to offer a more commercial print. The minimum order is 150m.


Cotton Incorporated

The latest developments from Cotton Incorporated include a woven fabric combining contrast-colour mercerised yarns in shades of aqua and pink or orange and magenta (pictured), which when woven in a herringbone pattern give an iridescent effect. The collection includes a chunky waffle weave, screen printed with a discharge paste, which sits on top of the waffle structure, and a cotton twill in a denim-effect space-dyed yarn, screen printed with a white geometric design. Intended for streetwear, a piqué fleece fabric has been sulphur-dyed black and sprayed with a glitter spray for a high-shine metallic finish. Other styles include a cotton Spandex jersey fabric, covered first with a clear coating after which a pink coating is applied by hand to give a white to pink ombré effect.


Holland & Sherry

The Holland & Sherry Group is still riding the crest of the Made in Britain wave, according to group sales director Lindsay Taylor. The Peebles-based merchant, which acquired Yorkshire weaver Joseph H Clissold in 2007, stocks more than 3,500 patterns at its Scotland warehouse. Responding to requests for added sparkle, Joseph H Clissold has blended Lurex with extra-fine merino wool to create a striped cloth (pictured). Mohair is also selling well in a blend of 95% merino, 5% mohair. This cloth has a black warp and colourful weft, which can be dyed in a selection of colours from sky blue to terracotta. The minimum for orders is 70m.


Abraham Moon

With more traffic to the stand than at last February’s Première Vision, it was all systems go for West Yorkshire weaver Abraham Moon. The mill has added a lightweight wool worsted sports jacket fabric (pictured) to its Heritage Collection, which reimagines classic styles of the past 100 years. This particular menswear cloth dates back to the 1920s. On the womenswear side, Abraham Moon is seeing demand for lighter-weight tartans (270g to 300g), such as Dress Stuart and Dress Gordon (pictured), for dresses, jackets and skirts. Buyers also responded well to the mill’s grey, cream and black distorted houndstooth design in 100% wool. Being a vertically integrated weaver means Moon has the flexibility to offer minimum orders as low as 5m.


Royal Universal Lace

A new exhibitor to Première Vision, Royal Universal Lace moved from Texworld to target higher-end eveningwear, haute couture and bridal designers, brands and private-label clothing manufacturers. The lace specialist carries out all its manufacturing in Thailand, where it has the capacity to produce 3.5 million metres a year. Key designs include a classic French lace in neon and pastel shades, and a canary yellow tulle with hand-stitched daisy appliqué. Buyers responded well to an abstract geometric in an apricot and Lurex yarn (pictured). The minimum order for hand-embellished designs is 30m, while plain colour styles start at 55m. Sampling of 4.5m is available.



Kurkku Alternative

Founded in September 2014, Japanese fabric manufacturer Kurkku Alternative bases its entire Everloom collection on organic cotton grown in collaboration with 1,000 farmers in southern India. The raw cotton is transported from India to Japan, where it is spun, woven and knitted into casualwear fabric. The organic cotton is blended with linen, cashmere and yak fibre to create all-natural products. A standout style is a camouflage-effect fabric (pictured), created by mixing white, light grey and charcoal yarns. Minimums depend on fabric type, with knits at a 300m minimum order, wovens at 600m and denim at 1,000m.



“We’ve had a lot of enquiries about provenance - not just on the material side, but fromcompanies wanting to manufacture in the UK. They want to make the whole product in the UK.”

Ann Thomson-Krol, textiles consultant for the UK Fashion & Textile Association

“I’m loving the linen and wool mixes, as well as gauzy micro structures. The cloth has a more handcrafted feel, as well as a lot of colour and exuberance.”

Kirsty McDougall, fabric design director at tweed designer, supplier and retailer Dashing Tweeds

“Spring 16 has three main directions: a rustic aspect, which is a very British look with a soft touch, the continued influence of sportswear fabrics and the theme of transparency, which plays into the desire for layering.”

Pascaline Wilhelm, fashion director, Première Vision

  • Click here to view our video with the exhibitors and visitors at Première Vision

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