The mood was upbeat and positive at Parisian textile shows Première Vision Paris (February 16-18) and Texworld (February 15-18), with hordes of visitors making their way to the French capital to view the latest fabrics for spring 17. Drapers rounds up the key cloths catching visitors’ attention in Paris.
Première Vision: Vanners
Not many companies can say Chanel was the first client on their booth, except that is silk weaver Vanners. Haute couture quality was visible in abundance, from a rich forest green and antique gold silk blend floral brocade to a cream snakeskin fabric outlined with iridescent yarns and overlaid with a white abstract leopard print. The Sudbury-based weaver also put a premium twist on camouflage, breaking up the red, purple and green pattern with a sheer stripe.
5 metre minimums
Première Vision: Mahlia Kent
From the moment PV opened visitors were lining up to catch sight of Mahlia Kent’s fancy fabrics. Among the visual feasts was a chunky check clashing neon green and pink with lilac and white, peppered with strands of gold. The French mill displayed its penchant for extreme fringing with an Aztec-patterned fabric woven using purple, aqua, sunshine yellow and orange paper yarns. Other highlights included denim woven with coral, rust and cream stripes and random stitching with the appearance of lines of genetic code.
5 metre minimums
“I come to every session of PV to look for fabrics and meet agents. I always have a hit list of people I want to see, and I tend to concentrate on the UK and European mills. I would say this session of the show is not as busy as normal, although the spring edition always tends to be that bit quieter.”
Studio Andreea Mandrescu
Première Vision: Studio Andreea Mandrescu
Unusual rubberised textures were the focus at London-based Studio Andreea Mandrescu, in particular a silk chiffon fabric overlaid with inky grey-coloured silicone pebbles. The atelier also attracted attention with its blush pink silk organza hand painted with a dainty lily motif, the outlines of which were traced with a silicone for textural detail and a white lace hand painted with blue silicone.
Taylor & Lodge
Première Vision: Taylor & Lodge
Chosen for its crease recovery and natural sheen, the high content of mohair in Taylor & Lodge’s spring 17 collection struck a cord with visitors, particularly a sophisticated navy and grey stripe merino wool and mohair cloth. The Huddersfield mill also presented its first 100% cotton cloth in a bold cornflower blue and white deckchair stripe. Sales manager William Halstead noted growing demand for heavier 300gsm to 400gsm spring weights to distinguish between British cloths and their slicker, lighter weight Italian counterparts.
65 metre minimums
“I come to Paris to see all the British mills that don’t show in London, this is definitely one of my favourite shows of the season. While I do like to see some Italian shirting fabric manufacturers, I mainly like to use British mills. I come to see the colour and the PV trend areas are great. While Milano Unica in Italy is a more focused on masculine fabrics, there is so much more on offer here at PV, although the spring show is about 75% the offer at the autumn show in September.”
European Confederation of Linen and Hemp (CELC)
Première Vision: European Confederation of Linen and Hemp (CELC)
Synonymous with summer, linen branched out into a variety of weights and styles on the CELC Master of Linen stand, which brought together a selection of cloth from PV exhibitors. Highlights included an olive linen and silk mix cloth with a contrasting lilac slub from Italian weaver Linificio e Canapificio Nazionale, and a lightweight blush pink cotton and linen cloth with a dainty micro-diamond jacquard weave by Tessitura Monti. Irish weaver John England’s 100% linen fabric in muted shades of nude and green had an appealing gauzy stripe, while the mill’s robust linen cotton mix black and red tribal motif attracted attention.
Dutch fabric manufacturer Knipidee noted a real uptake in activewear fabrics among its womenswear accounts, with clients opting for a soft double-faced jersey and fleece-backed fabric in shades of grey, pastel green and pink. Comfort stretch in general appealed, in particular a cotton, polyester and Lycra cream and blue cloth in an Incan style jacquard weave with pinpricks of colour.
500 metre minimums
“I’m pleased the show is really busy and I think the offer is more creative than ever. Our exhibitors have pushed themselves to try new things, mixing different yarns and styles in subtle, but interesting ways to change the equilibrium. We are a truly international show on the global textile calendar.”
Woolmark Wool Lab
Première Vision: Woolmark Wool Lab
Presenting its take on spring 17, the Woolmark Company’s Wool Lab trends comprised a plethora of fabrics incorporating Australian merino wool. The Italian selection impressed, in particular a dove grey wool cloth overlaid with a metallic silver sprawling tree motif from finishing specialist Dyloan Studio. Standing out among the others was a wool silk fabric handwoven by artisan weaver Arte Viva in a chequerboard pattern, combining fluffy sprigs of white material stitched together with blue, sage green and pink yarn.
Première Vision: Kirsty McDougall
First time PV exhibitor Kirsty McDougall was attracting interest from the US, UK, France and Italy for experimental handweaves, in particular a fluffy mushroom coloured mohair fabric, which had felted and brushed and feature oversized floats. The Dalston-based weaver’s chunky wool tweed incorporating yarns made from velvet and upholstery vinyl proved popular with visitors, as did a navy silk cloth inlaid with black and blue ombre ostrich and goose feathers.
“Agents and buyers have been responding really well to the new-found confidence of the British mills. They are experimenting more than ever, becoming more trans-seasonal and embracing spring qualities such as blends of linen, fine wools and cottons.”
Première Vision: Alan Litman
Nottingham lace master Alan Litman flexed its creative muscle for spring 17, offering a white web lace embroidered with delicate flowers, which had been embroidered at the centre to create buds sticking out from the lace for a 3D effect. Other highlights included a wave-shaped repeat mesh in black or white trimmed with gold metallic detail, trailing like the body of the Chinese dragon.
3 metre minimums
Texworld: Vinayak International
Hand-embroidered in Calcutta by Vinayak International’s in-house specialists, the cloths on show from the Indian mill displayed impressive detail, especially a grey nylon floral lace finished with an assortment of blue and grey beads and silver sequins. Perfect for eveningwear, other standout cloths included a striking royal blue fishnet lace with areas of lilac cording and blue beading and a white web lace base, embroidered with a large cream and black roses, traced with small seed beads and micro sequins.
6 metre minimums
“It seems a bit quiet as it takes time to get through the ticketing system and extra security measures, but I don’t think people have been put off attending by the terror situation. PV is on the textile calendar, you just know you need to come. The quality of the people here is really good.”
Première Vision: Heathcoat Fabrics
Despite being a heavyweight in the technical textiles sector, Tiverton headquartered Heathcoat Fabrics is growing its footprint in the fashion market. The mill’s UK-made flame-retardant nylon and polyester dress nets are increasingly being used for wedding dresses, petticoats and tutus, with the costume designers on Strictly Come Dancing firm fans. A voluminous hexagonal structure dress net in fluorescent blue and peacock caught the eye, as did a finer diamond structure nylon net for wedding dress overlay shades of pink.
40 metre minimums
Texworld: Shaoxing County Yaoliang Textiles
Specialising in polyester embroidery, China’s Yaoliang Textiles presented lace with a charming hand sketched appearance in lilac, magenta and buttercup yellow. Visitors also responded well to polyester mesh base printed in an abstract leopard print, overlaid with a laser cut floral design in grey, white and pink, finished with gold highlights.
1,000 metre minimums
“It’s important to exhibit at shows like Première Vision in terms of visibility and as part of the overall trade advertising programme. It’s important to have a presence and stay relevant. This show attracts a big international audience and we’ve seen smaller brands from the UK and France, as well as big players like Target and Wolverine. With the growing number of trade shows it’s becoming quite fragmented and it’s difficult because you can’t be everywhere.”
Première Vision: Abraham Moon
For spring 17 Abraham Moon went big on wool worsted leno weaves (a cross weave creating a strong yet sheer fabric), with the 260gsm gauze cloth impressing in a palette of fresh spring greens ranging from aqua to olive and a vibrant grass green, as well as eye-catching burnt orange and red. The Leeds-based mill also presented the same wool worsted leno weave with a soft, jersey-like finish in a bold plaid ranging from grey and blue to forest green and heathery chocolate brown.
240 metre minimums