Brands take a refined approach to autumn 12, with interest coming from military influences and panelling.
Name Gavin Skelton Job title Senior menswear designer
Design The new Boxfresh identity is a combination of four key elements – Boxfresh Archive, Streetwear, Workwear and Military. We feel this relates to our consumer as streetwear has cleaned up and become a lot more sophisticated. It’s refined streetwear.
Colours We try to create three key colour stories each season. For autumn 12 our stories include autumnal browns and greens, winter berry reds and frost blues.
Fabrics Heavy canvas for a workwear feel, wax cottons for heritage pieces, flecked sweats, knits, jersey for texture and interest in appearance. For shirting we’ve used a mixture of dry handle stripe stories for workwear influences and a much heavier washed-out program for a vintage feel.
Silhouettes Our key silhouettes include the fishtail parka. This particular parka has a very high facing with an angled front placket. Also key is our melton wool hooded bomber jacket, a typical lads’ shape coat with a cropped silhouette and high face.
Prices We’ve had the fortunate experience of reducing RRPs due to fantastic efforts from our supply chain.
Name Steve Atkinson Job title Head of menswear
Design The key theme for autumn 12 is ‘outdoor for indoor’, taking the trend for everything outdoorsy and gentrified and applying our Gio twist, which will bring it to the street and make it relevant to our market. Other themes include workwear and a camo-style military reworking. The main inspiration for any Gio collection is the street, whether in London, Tokyo, New York or LA.
Colours Petrol bomb, tobacco, canvas, tank green and winehouse.
Fabrics Herringbones, cords, canvases and nap textures.
Silhouettes We’ve focused on a tapered silhouette, which best suits the direction of the collection and advances our guy’s look without it being a huge departure.
Prices Given the current market situation we’ve tried hard to maintain our wholesale prices and if possible reduce them.
Names Nick Barber and Kerstin Groeber Job titles Head of design men’s; head of design women’s
Design For the new Bench Denim collection, we based a lot of our research on music culture and the type of fits and washes that were prevalent among followers of different genres.
Inspiration The details on each piece form a direct link back to our own heritage, with distinctive pocket stitching inspired by the off-centre/quarter zips that define our outerwear, and square badging and rivets used to reinforce the full stop of the Bench logo.
Silhouettes Men’s has straight and slim cuts in a variety of washes plus a new anti-fit shape that sits low at the waist for a more relaxed fit tapering towards the ankle. For women, there is a variety of slim and skinny shapes.
Prices The introduction of basic shapes on men’s styles has resulted in a lower opening wholesale price point of £18, rising to £24 for selvedge denim. The women’s range starts at £16 and rises to £22.
Name Marie Lauga Job title European women’s designer
Design For autumn 12 we’ve created a collection where our customers can still find the feminine pieces that have contributed to the brand’s success, but we’ve also really tried to work on the warmer pieces of the collection we call ‘Modern coastal classics with a twist’. We’ve created a larger selection of sweaters, jackets and winter accessories.
Fabrics On ‘Indigo Blue’, we have chambrays and fleece. For ‘Cocooning on the coast’, we’ve selected fabrics that are softer and more fluid, such as flannel and viscose. And for ‘Town’, we looked for delicate fabrics such as silk or cashmere.
Silhouettes Feminine, delicate dresses get topped by chunky cardigans. Denim and graphic tees embody a laid-back, bohemian vibe. And look out for this season’s essential piece, the poncho, in all its forms, from a sailor-style canvas version to an ultra-comfortable soft wool option.
Prices In our clothing collection prices remain consistent, starting at £22 for a tee and going up to £160 for jacket.
Name Gerald Bultot Job title Head of design
Design Our collection is inspired by the classic preppy Americana of the 1970s, as well as the playful roots of the Lee brand. We revisit key styles that have become iconic pieces of design, such as the Lee Rider denim jacket, the Loco jacket and the Lee 101Z jeans.
Colours The palette includes shades of blue and burgundy, offset by warm earthy tones. We add playful elements with shots of bright colour in cords as well as in knits.
Fabrics For women, we play with super-stretch coated denims to give a leather-look effect. On both men’s and women’s we introduce options in bottoms using cords and felt fabrics.
Silhouettes For men, we wanted a denim look that was still fairly smart and modern – the Icon 1930 jeans paired with a blue chambray or check shirt deliver this look. For women, we showcase stretch deluxe jeans paired with simple yet stylish knits and shirting, as well as a choice of more styled ‘going out’ looks that highlight our overdyed and coated jeans and jeggings.
Name Rachel Kan Job title Designer
Design We’ve redefined the androgynous look with a more feminine, fun slant, including shirt dresses with bow ties and prints including spectacles and moustaches, on an understated colour palette. Other key design themes are woodland creatures with in-house designed prints of lions and foxes. For the party season we introduce panther prints and body-con dresses.
Colours The key colours for autumn 12 have to be burnt oranges, teals, rusts, reds, mustards and electric blue with a highlight of pink.
Fabrics Our collection is very tactile and includes furs, cable knits, fluffy angora, yarns, tweeds, yarn-dyed coat checks as well as printed chiffon on crêpe for our signature printed dresses.
Silhouettes Our key silhouettes are the shirt collars with bow ties, shirt dresses and pinafore dresses that can all be layered up for winter with separates such as jumpers, which definitely add a different dimension to these wearable items.
Name Olivia Pietroni Job title Head designer
Design Outerwear is one of the key design themes behind the collection. We focused on strong jacket design and translated classic outerwear fabrics and details right through the collection, from knitwear to T-shirts. The overall silhouette is louche and effortless. Sportswear-influenced, it is contemporary men’s clothing that needs to be easy to wear while aesthetically exciting.
Colours A muted palette with subtle contrasts of dark charcoals, soft greys, polar blue, deep teal, ice white, and varying brown and navy hues.
Fabrics Combinations of laminated knit, jersey neoprene, marled nylons, waffle and moss stitch knit, tonic nylons, brushed cotton drills and baby cord. We’re excited to be returning to Fila’s roots by using Italian fabrics. These are twists on classic outerwear and sportswear fabrics, giving a new dimension to the uncomplicated designs of the collection.
Prices Use of high-quality Italian fabrics, intricate design details and trims along with our return to European clothing production all push this Fila Contempo range to compete with higher-end brands. This premium clothing design and construction is reflected in our wholesale prices.
Names Norbert Schneider and Rainer Knapp Job titles In-house designers
Design Subdivided as usual into field jackets, flight jackets and cold weather jackets and parkas, Alpha Industries is staying traditional with its core styles but has added some fashion-forward items for autumn 12. The main inspirations come from the heritage and history of the brand, from its military base to its street culture emphasis.
Colours The key colours will be navy, mustard, burnt orange, green and silver blue, but of course also our basic colours of black, sage green and khaki will still play an important role in our collection.
Fabrics The key fabrics will be our nyco satin, two-tone nylon and our special lightweight flight nylon. We’ve also added some new fabrics like down to give the jackets a special twist.
Prices With some jackets we’ve used some very premium fabrics, so some of the jackets will be sold at more premium prices.
Name Daniel Savory Job title Creative director
Design The collection draws from a range of eclectic influences including the Pacific Northwest’s hunting and outdoor clothing, the Californian early 1980s surf/skate scene and an array of music and pop culture references. The key themes blend original detail with contemporary styling and colourways that will allow the customer to integrate the pieces easily into their wardrobe. The TS x New Era cap collaborations will be successful alongside the selvedge chino and cords which are both directional yet easy to wear, plus the US Navy-style wool watch cap is totally on trend.
Colours Frogskin camo, navy, woodland green, grey and orange.
Fabrics Herringbone twill adds authenticity and a rugged quality to outerwear, while nubuck and leather on footwear brings a luxe element.
Anything else to add? Autumn 12 will see the first Trainerspotter footwear range available from Size? and selected indies.