From modern tweeds to exotic screenprints, Drapers highlights key fabric producers to seek out at Paris textile show Première Vision at Parc d’Expositions on February 16-18
Liberty Art Fabrics
Liberty Art Fabrics
Liberty’s Castaway spring 17 collection is inspired by a tropical island. The collection of prints depicts a world of aquatic flora and fauna, ocean horizons and a menagerie of tropical delights.
Forty seasonal print designs are created for men’s, women’s and kidswear. Liberty is also launching a 15 prints kidswear fabric capsule collection for spring 17. The Garden of Dreams range will feature original designs in three colourways, from multicolour to traditional blues and baby pastels.
Also launching for spring 17 is a swimwear fabric collection encompassing tropical palms, exotic animals and fruit prints.
Specialities Liberty specialises in screenprinted fabrics. Its famous Tana Lawn cotton woven fabric has been popular since the 1920s.
Minimum order 150 metres for seasonal collections
Clients Liberty Art Fabrics supplies premium fashion brands and designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Sonia Rykiel, Zac Posen and Rag & Bone.
Owner Private equity firm BlueGem Capital Partners
Location With headquarters in London, Liberty Art Fabrics also has offices in the US, Japan, China, Australia and Brazil, as well as agents in Europe, the United Arab Emirates and South Africa.
Founded Liberty of London was founded in 1875 by Arthur Lasenby Liberty, whose store featured a fabric collection inspired by his vision of an eastern bazaar.
Joseph H. Clissold
Joseph H Clissold
For spring 17, Joseph H Clissold is experimenting with new blends for jacketing fabrics, mixing wool with cotton and linen. Designs range from richly coloured large checks (as pictured) to a small selection of geometric weaves in muted tones. The mill has also branched out into 100% cotton fabrics.
Specialities The mill specialises in menswear suiting, jacketing and some womenswear fabrics, split 90% menswear and 10% womenswear. It is best known for using fine merino wool from Australia and New Zealand to manufacture a range of Super 180s to Super 200s worsted cloths.
Minimum order 70 metres
Clients Joshua Kane, Burberry and Jaeger in the UK. Clissold exports to Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy in France, and Polo Ralph Lauren in the US. The mill has noticed a rise in demand, in particular from China, the US, Germany and Italy.
Owner Holland & Sherry, a subsidiary of Tom James Company, the US-based group that specialises in the manufacture/retail of custom clothing.
Staff The 32-strong team works across pattern weaving, mending, warehousing, inspection, design, sales and production.
Location Oldgate Mill, Bradford, West Yorkshire
Expect a twist on tweeds with graphic brights and lightweight, textured leno weaves. Alongside the summer plaids in soft blends of cotton and viscose, look out for fancy yarns with sequins, ribbons, tapes and random colour effects. Linton’s spring 17 colour palette features highly saturated brights, neutrals and classic black and white.
Specialities Linton Tweeds has carved out a niche as a manufacturer of textured, novelty woven fabrics, designed and woven at its mill. Intended for womenswear, in particular tweed jackets, skirts and coats, the cloths feature a variety of decorative yarns from Italy, Spain, Japan and Germany. The manufacturer also twists its own yarns to create unique varieties.
Minimum order 50 metres
Clients Chanel, Oscar de la Renta, Simone Rocha, LK Bennett, Aquascutum, Diane von Furstenberg and Marc Jacobs
Owners Linton Tweeds is run by the Walker family, who irst took control in 1969, when Leslie Walker was appointed managing director. Walker was succeeded by his son, Keith, in 1994, who still runs the business.
Staff The mill employs 49 people, including managing director Keith Walker, design director Rob Irvine and production director Gary Brunton. Linton hired two apprentices in 2015 to work in yarn-twisting and is set to appoint two more this year.
Location Shaddon Mills, Carlisle, Cumbria
Founded 1912 by William Linton
Robert Noble will be showcasing linen and silk blends, as well as fine wool in colourful plaids. The mill produces a range of weights from fine 240 gsm (grammes per square metre) fabrics and 4-ply linen-silk blends to 400 gsm spring jacketing. Expect sophisticated fabrics in classic Prince of Wales check and dogtooth patterns.
Specialities Menswear fabrics, heritage tweeds
Minimum order 120 metres bulk manufacture
Clients Brooks Brothers, Paul Smith, Chester Barrie and Etro
Owners The Temple family (Magee Weaving)
Location Formerly based in the Scottish Borders town of Peebles, Robert Noble was bought by Ireland’s Magee Weaving in September 2015 and production moved to Donegal.
If you are in Paris for Première Vision, check out Texworld at Le Bourget on February 15‑18.
What? Texworld showcases fabric manufactured by more than 600 exhibitors from 25 countries, spanning denim and cotton fabrics, jacquards, silks, prints, functional fabrics and trims.
Who? Expect to see denim from China and casual cotton shirting from Pakistan, as well as lace and embroidery from Hong Kong and Taiwanese technical fabrics.
What’s new? Texworld has added a linen and hemp section in response to demand from the European market for natural fibres.
Highlight Eight new exhibitors specialising in knits and casualwear from Haining City in Zhejiang Province, eastern China.
Watch out for Foison Textile (Foshan) for denim and Guangdong Jianye Textile Group for knits, embroidery, lace and silk.