From joyous jumbo dresses to a rainbow parade and fresh takes on layering, these are the trends to know from London’s womenswear catwalks.
- As well as the season’s key trends below, read the Drapers verdict on LFW and find out what key buyers thought of the spring 20 collections in our daily buyer diaries.
Big dress energy
Designers turned up the volume for the new season with a focus on BDE – big dress energy – as oversized dresses and exaggerated silhouettes were seen everywhere. While the extreme styles of the catwalk made a statement, a more pared-down yet equally pumped-up dress and skirt shape will trickle down to the mainstream.
Bold and bright colours packed a punch on the London catwalks in solid, saturated blocks. Although Victoria Beckham’s purples and greens stood out, there is a whole spectrum of rainbow shades to buy into.
Over the top
A fresh approach to layering emerged in London this season, where thin, diaphanous separates in varying degrees of transparency and opacity were worn in an artful, collaged way. Emerging names Charlotte Knowles and Supriya Lele were the best examples, where a play on layering and sheer fabrics created a contemporary yet covered-up sexiness.
Bet on a blazer for spring 20, as tailoring remains a mainstay of collections and a must-buy. In London, designers elevated boxy blazers with details such as regal sashes at Erdem and embellishments at JW Anderson.
The feeling’s neutral
The “new” neutrals trend that began to emerge in London last season, introduced by Burberry, carried forward into another season. Think beige, cream and camel mixed and matched in a palette of similar shades across entire outfits – as much a colour trend as a styling trend, as designers went tonal.
In the trenches
Transitional trenches remain a key spring style, already noted in the New York collections. In London, the city’s creative designers reworked trenches to offer something fresh – chopped up and deconstructed at JW Anderson and trench coat stalwart Burberry, or featuring interesting additions, such as pleated silky panels at Huishan Zhang.
Bunches of lilacs
Pastel tones were a trend of note from New York Fashion Week, and while the palette did carry over to the UK capital, it was the soft purples and lilacs that were prominent here, across everything from girly dresses to classic tailoring.
Ready to ruche
Ruching details wriggled their way into many collections this season, creating gathered and pleated details across many different styles. Alongside classic gathering, several designers introduced pull strings and toggles to create more defined ruching and sculpt designs around the body.
Back in the black
Although colour, print and pattern bought an optimistic air to many collections, there was a significant amount of black at LFW, which is unusual for a spring season. Worn in head-to-toe blocks, stark black allowed interesting silhouettes to shine and accented designers’ fabric choices – for example, Supriya Lele’s sleek and sexy rubber coat.
A twist on lime
A palette of greens also made an impact in the spring 20 collections of LFW. The freshest tones focused on zingy limes and bright slime green shades.
The 10 trends of London Fashion Week spring 20