Drapers introduces the 15 emerging menswear and womenswear designers that have been awarded Newgen support for 2017/18.
Last week it was announced that 15 up-and-coming menswear and womenswear designers would be given the British Fashion Council’s Newgen support for 2017/18, as part of a reformatted approach to the initiative that has in the past supported designers including Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane and JW Anderson.
A Cold Wall
A Cold Wall
Launched in 2015 by Samuel Ross, A Cold Wall has quickly established itself as one of the leading names in London’s evolving and elevated streetwear scene.
Having worked with Off-White’s Virgil Abloh and on projects with Nike and department store Barneys New York, the brand made its London Fashion Week Men’s debut for autumn 17 and already counts SSense, Gr8 in Tokyo and London’s Harvey Nichols as stockists.
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
Fashion East’s theatrical provocateur party boy graduates to NEWGEN sponsorship this year, bringing his Scottish via East London spectacle to the London Fashion Week Men’s catwalk once again. Loverboy is both the Central Saint Martins alum’s fashion brand and a cult Dalston club night, merging a decadent DIY club kid style with his signature androgynous tailoring.
Design duo Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty make up Cottweiler, London’s subversive sportswear fanatics. Applying immaculate Italian textiles and techy functional fabrics to design-led takes on menswear staples, the pair’s recent London Fashion Week Men’s show was a highlight of the city’s autumn 17 season. Other projects include an excellent collaboration with sportswear giant Reebok, which debuted at menswear trade show Pitti Uomo in Florence in January.
New name to know Michael Halpern made his debut at February’s London Fashion Week, bringing his sensational sparkles and unabashed glamour to the UK’s womenswear catwalks.
A recent graduate of the esteemed Central Saint Martins MA fashion course and a current consultant to the Atlier Versace couture team, the American-born designer shines bright as one to watch.
With a sold-out Stüssy collaboration already under his belt and another project with outerwear specialist Mackintosh as creative director of its designer-focused line Mackintosh 0001, Central Saint Martins graduate Kiko Kostadinov has quickly caught the eye the menswear industry thanks to his modern, technical take on uniform dressing.
Kent-born menswear designer Liam Hodges counts more than 30 international retailers as stockists just three years after graduating from the Royal College of Art. He focuses on a refined DIY style that blends urban basics with signature graphic details and cut-and-paste prints.
Born in Poland, raised in Germany and based in London, Marta Jakubowski is a womenswear designer known for her bold colour and inspired reworkings of classic styles. Her autumn 17 range packed a colourful punch, as 1980s tailoring was reworked into sexy takes on suiting.
One of the eight finalists in this year’s LVMH Prize for emerging designers, Central Saint Martins graduate Molly Goddard has quickly made a name for herself thanks to her unwavering love of ruffled tulle and fun, exuberant dresses. She made her catwalk debut at London Fashion Week for autumn 17, and her signature styles already hang on the rails of London’s Browns and Dover Street Market, as well as in international stores.
Nicholas Daley will make his London Fashion Week Men’s debut next season thanks to Newgen support, having launched his menswear brand for spring 15.
A graduate of Central Saint Martins with experience working on London’s Savile Row, Daley’s label is dedicated to preserving British craft via fresh updates to classic men’s staples, and all production is done by British manufacturers.
London-based but Frankfurt-raised, Paula Knorr is a Royal College of Art alumnus who graduated in 2015. Her signatures include metallic sheen splashed across the female form, a penchant for statement trousers and a sensual approach to silhouettes. Famous fans include the musicians Björk and Solange Knowles.
Phoebe English – Man
Phoebe English Man
Phoebe English founded her womenswear label in 2011, immediately after graduating from Central Saint Martins’ MA fashion course – stockists now include London’s Dover Street Market and Hong Kong’s IT. She debuted her menswear collection four seasons ago, following the same style of precision and utilitarian luxury – all made in the UK.
Ireland’s Richard Malone left the fashion BA course at Central Saint Martins in 2014 and his 12-look graduate collection was immediately snapped up by Irish department store Brown Thomas. There is a retro quirk to Marlone’s womenswear designs, often featuring artfully constructed items in bold gingham or eye-catching stripes, and silhouettes that merge into beautifully abstract forms across the body.
From Machine A in London to Beams in Tokyo, Sadie Williams is racking up key global stockists for her emerging womenswear label. She graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2013 and has been impressing buyers ever since with her sparkly yet tomboyish shapes and penchant for graphic patterns.
Since her graduation in 2014, it has been quite a meteoric rise for menswear designer Grace Wales Bonner, who won the Emerging Menswear Designer prize at the British Fashion Awards the following year and the LVMH Prize for young designers in 2016.
Her label, already stocked internationally by Matchesfashion.com, Selfridges and Joyce in Hong Kong, focuses on beautiful tailoring and opulent embroidery, balancing European and African inspirations.
One to Watch – Richard Quinn
Print maverick Richard Quinn was born and raised in London, graduating from the city’s Central Saint Martins in 2016. His unique approach to print won him the H&M Design Award that same year. He will be supported by Newgen’s One to Watch fund.