From a fresh take on tailoring to minty fresh colours via denim and utilitarian sportswear, Drapers dissects the top menswear trends from the spring 20 edition of London Fashion Week Men’s.
While a casual look has dominated much of menswear for many seasons, the tide continues to turn back to tailoring. It was particularly notable how London’s newest names and rising stars took on the trend for spring 20, with fresh updates and twisted takes on the classic blazer and suit.
Most commonly used for classic jeans, the humble denim fabric was elevated in London, reworked and tailored into a host of new styles. There were smart shorts at E Tautz, while emerging designers Bethany Williams and Bianca Saunders created neat jackets, and Nicholas Daley showed matching denim overcoats and trouser sets.
A prominent colour trend for spring 20 focused on a fresh palette of peppermint greens, which stood out among the overall soft pastels of the season. A subtle colour in isolation, it caught the eye when worn in head-to-toe matching or tonal combinations, and was widely seen in sporty and streetwear shapes, as well as classic tailored items.
A 1990s favourite – the cargo trouser cropped up in several collections this season. Often tapping into fashion’s current trend for throwback styles from the decade, roomy leg widths or cargo-meets-track pant styles were key.
Pastel shades were a catwalk trend during the last edition of womenswear shows, but moved into menswear ranges in London. Look out for dusty blues, sherbet yellows, pretty pinks and lilacs making a mark this season.
If there is one must-have item for menswear buyers come spring 20, it is the printed summer shirt. Short sleeved, often boxy in shape and featuring a warm weather-ready spread collar and exposed chest, take your pick from London’s best selection.
Patch it up
Patchworks were evident at many of the London shows. There were pieces decorated with patchwork applique, while elsewhere, patchwork prints replicated the look. At Studio ALCH, new and sustainable fabrics were created in a patchwork style by heat pressing recycled plastic bags together.
Ready for combat
The sports-meets-streetwear trend shows little sign of waning, but it marched into a futuristic, military direction for spring. Think urban tracksuits elevated with sleek panelling, functional pockets and utilitarian strap details – protective yet ready to combat the future.
Game, set and match
Summer-ready co-ordinating sets packed a punch in many ranges – some sets were were based on colour, but the best looks worked prints across T-shirts, tops and jackets with matching shorts or trousers.