From jungle dresses to a new simplicity, Drapers analyses the key trends and new directions from the spring 20 Milan womenswear collections
The all-black looks that cropped up in London also stood out on the Italian catwalks. Less typical in spring collections, the focus on black helped to accentuate designers’ shapes and silhouettes, such as Prada’s wasp-waist dress with sheer overlay.
There were two types of floral blooms on the Milan catwalks. On one side, photoreal tropical foliage spread over designs, including Versace’s reworking of its famous ‘jungle’ dress originally worn and then re-modelled by singer Jennifer Lopez in the Instagram moment of the week, while elsewhere bold and abstract painterly flora burst across ranges.
Pure and simple
An air of pared-back simplicity was a welcome “palette-cleanser” in Milan, where the catwalks have been dominated by a “more is more” approach to maximalism for several seasons. At Jil Sander, it found form in chic minimalist shapes, often oversized and boxy, while at Prada, a simple sweater and pencil skirt were the unassuming highlights of the show.
Add a touch of luxury to your offer with spring leather pieces, which appeared everywhere in Milan. The city’s classic heritage brands were best at reworking signature leather into new season styles – see brand of the moment Bottega Veneta and its creative director Daniel Lee’s plethora of leather looks.
Sweet and sour
Buy bold for spring with punchy shades and saturated tones – think rainbow brights worked in blocks and mixed and matched.
Tailoring is the trend that appears not to wane for another season, as smart styles continue to make their way into a whole range of collections. As at New York and London fashion weeks, the boxy blazer made the most impact, in longer lengths and featuring strong shoulders.
Shades of lilac are coming through as a new-season update to the perennial pastel palette, and yet more designers worked variations of purple into their spring 20 collections in Milan.
Utility details lent a safari feel to a handful of designs in the Italian fashion capital. Patch pockets were the key element, presented in crisp fabrics with clean lines to update the workwear look.
Take the plunge
Plunging necklines revealed slashes of skin across Milan, as extra-deep V-shaped necklines graced dresses and tops for a dressier eveningwear trend to note.