As New York Fashion Week kicks off today, Drapers rounds up the key debuts and designer musical chairs to know for the coming month of catwalk collections.
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The most talked-about change this season will be the new “see now, buy now” and “straight to consumer” models as designers rip up the rulebook. This brave new world begins in New York, where Tom Ford (who is showing a combined men’s and women’s autumn 16 not spring 17 collection) and Tommy Hilfiger (who is showing a seasonless offering and collaboration with model Gigi Hadid) will arrive in store immediately after both shows. Time will tell if catwalk hype and social media buzz turns into transactions. Read more about this here.
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Burberry will continue the “see now, buy now” movement at London Fashion Week, next week, when its new “straight to consumer” collection will be shoppable as soon as it hits the catwalk. Also expect to see a seasonless men’s and women’s collection shown together as one holistic collection. Chief executive and chief creative officer Christopher Bailey was reportedly inspired by Vigirina Woolf’s novel, Orlando, so look forward to pieces that reference a range of historical eras and are influenced by Woolf’s time-travelling, gender-fluid protagonist.
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Maria Grazia Chiuri will unveil her first collection as Dior’s new creative director, after she left her role as co-creative director at Valentino in July. Dior’s spring 17 collection will be the French fashion house’s first ever under the creative lead of a woman.
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Chiuri’s departure for Dior leaves Pier Paolo Piccioli to lead Valentino alone. Will we see a new direction?
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Hedi Slimane is out at Saint Laurent and Anthony Vaccarello is in as new creative director. Expect sexy dresses and split thighs, but will Slimane’s successful grungy signature stay?
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Lanvin’s new artistic director, Bouchra Jarrar, will make her fashion week debut at the French house following Alber Elbaz’s shock departure late last year.
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In more moves, London’s Jonathan Saunders has taken the leap across the Atlantic to join Diane Von Furstenberg as its new creative director following the shuttering of his eponymous women’s and men’s wear brand. Bright colours and bold prints are forecast.
Olivier Theyskens is making his return, launching an eponymous label at Paris fashion week following positions at Rochas, Nina Ricci and Theory.