Paris Fashion Week Men’s autumn 20 included shows from some of the industry’s best-known names.
Highlights included Louis Vuitton’s cartoonish celestial spectacle, Dior’s homage to late accessory designer Judy Blame and Paul Smith’s exuberant 50th anniversary. Drapers brings you the 10 biggest trends from the French capital.
That seventies show
Wide lapels, flared trousers and roll-necks paid tribute to one of fashion’s favourite decades. Rich colours of green, purple and brown cropped up at several shows, and Officine Generale’s suiting in vintage-inspired corduroy was a highlight. The 1970s were also a notable trend from the London men’s shows – proving that it is one to watch this autumn.
Designers took inspiration from all aspects of the animal kingdom for autumn 20 – from the humble farmyard with Bode NY’s cow print coat, to the more exotic jungle, as new takes on leopard print prowled the Sacai and Dries Van Noten runways. Elsewhere, Acne Studios showed an eye-catching blue snake print suit.
The Paris designers were not afraid of colour this season. From top-to-toe fuchsia on military inspired tailoring at Virgil Abloh’s Louis Vuitton, to Berluti’s neon suiting with a casual twist of matching trainers, bold fluorescent colourways were a staple on the catwalks.
One outerwear trend that has travelled through the autumn 20 menswear shows is quilted and chunky puffer jackets. It is the bigger the better when it comes to autumn 20 coat – proving popular in Paris having already dominated the catwalks in both London and Milan. Acne Studios gave its designs a metallic sheen, while Henrik Vibskov styled his maroon version in tonal, autumnal colours – proving the puffer is anything but basic.
The sky’s the limit
Louis Vuitton’s Virgil Abloh showed his latest collection in a cartoonish cloud-print setting – which was reflected in the sky blue key pieces of his collection. The dream-like print appeared on smart, tailored items such as blazers and slim-fit trousers, as well as on Abloh’s signature casual sweatshirts. The sky blue theme continued elsewhere at the Paris shows. JW Anderson fused several trends, with a 1970s paisley print in bright bold blue, and, elsewhere, blocks of blue denim and shirting stood out at Hed Mayner, while Paul Smith showed a dramatic cobalt ensemble from bucket hat to shoes.
Strap yourself in
Tailoring was contrasted with utilitarian strapping at several of the menswear shows. Craig Green was in Paris for the first time, after moving his collections from London, and included cut-out-and-keep inspired strapping. Smart shirts were offset with hanging straps at Off-White, and Sean Suen’s futuristic suits included bib-like details.
Wallpaper and curtain prints made their way onto the runways for autumn 20. Elaborate, tapestry-inspired patterns adorned billowing outerwear at JW Anderson with paisley-esque prints in contrasting colours. Rochas showed wearable camel and black knitwear, and Palomo Spain featured sharp suiting in a dramatic fuchsia and black colourway.
In the trenches
The trench coat is a menswear staple. While the classic design may be synonymous with British style, it was a key piece in Paris for the next season. KidSuper showed a style that was customised with silk scarves and printed photos. Dior elevated its version with a keychain embellishment. Maison Mihara Yasuhiro showed flowing and artfully dishevelled trenches, contrasting with Sean Suen’s neat, tailored style.
Give it some welly
Footwear took a practical approach for autumn 20 – and the humble wellington boot moved from muddy weekend walk onto the runway. Lanvin’s yellow style particularly stood out, while Vetements opted for full-on, thigh-high waders and White Mountaineering offered up long quilted styles. There is no risk of soaked-through socks with this solid footwear trend.
A bit of all white
While myriad colours appeared in the Paris shows, there was also something for the minimalist. All-white looks were seen at Acne, Jacquemus, Officine Generale and Valentino. The last included a pop of colour in yellow, but the pale shade was most often worn top-to-toe. Acne played with proportions by teaming fitted trousers with an oversized jacket, while Jacquemus gave its look a sportswear spin, with a puffer jacket and luxe joggers – proving that no matter the product, winter white is a big trend for the autumn 20 season.