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Autumn 13 preview - Menswear

Heritage still dominates, with freshness provided by fabrics and splashes of colour.

BARBOUR

  • Ian Bergin, Head of menswear

Barbour

Barbour

Design Barbour’s archive and historic associations inspire the heritage lines, but silhouettes and fabrics are refreshed and modern. The Barbour International collection takes its inspiration from the brand’s motorcycling heritage and Steve McQueen’s participation in the 1964 International Six Day Trials when he wore Barbour as a member of the US team. The Heritage ranges take two iconic Barbour coats as their inception: the hooded, military Durham,
and the countryman’s favourite, the Beaufort.

Colours Outerwear turns to the dark side, with colours traditional for the British winter. Black, tan, olive and brown reign. Mid-layers and trousers are bolder: blue, grey, brown, mustard, and the subtle colour on Fair Isles, Tattersalls and tweeds.

Fabrics Wax cotton and quilt are the twin engines of outerwear, but merino wool and tweed fabrics made in the UK are in the ascendancy.

Silhouettes Heritage creates a slim, fitted and modern silhouette. Cords and chinos follow the line of the leg, and the season’s notable jackets also take a slim line. The new Beacon Heritage range is tailored long and lean.

Prices Our prices have mainly held.

CAMEL ACTIVE

  • Joseph Lim and Johannes Fischer, Art director and creative director

Camel Active

Camel Active

Design The Tracing Heritage collection is inspired by the hunting traditions of the people of the Eurasian Steppe who hunt with trained eagles. Accordingly an eagle feather is used as the central theme. The mix of contrasting materials, Central Asian-inspired patterns and striking design elements give it a versatile style.

Colours Earthy neutral and blue tones from midnight to worker, fruity olive and slightly dusty beige-brown form the basis of the colour range. Saffron, cinnamon as well as tobacco and pumpkin subtly point the way towards the autumn/winter trend. Fresh yellow and fiery red on one side and warm orange and turquoise on the other provide the true highlights.

Fabrics Accents are set with wintry tweed, wool in Donegals and houndstooth, herringbone patterns, glen checks and suede. Marled looks are complemented with soft vintage corduroy, while washed twill is used alongside quilted nylon. Leather is key for trimmings or buttons in all product groups.

Silhouettes Natural casualness with a twist and functional urbanity combine to form a characteristic style for the modern man.

Prices Prices remain the same.

BRUTUS

  • Jonathan Freedman, Owner/creative director

Brutus

Brutus

Design We created the Outfit shirting range, which uses heritage tartan checks from our archive, but we’ve softened the look by brushing the cotton and relaxing the fit, giving it a more 1990s grunge feel. We’re also bringing back the original Brutus Gold Jean. We’ve chosen to release a good, honest man’s jean - great quality denim at a good price. Clean washes and good fits. Nothing too skinny! Our archive is the place we always start looking for inspiration and we try not to stray too far from it. We are always about creating timeless classic looks inspired by genres, especially music.

Colours Blues, reds and greens.

Fabrics Soft, brushed cotton to give a relaxed, comfortable feel.

Silhouettes Trimfit range has the slim 1969 silhouette - very sharp, smart, British suedehead look we are known for. The Outfit shirting range has a relaxed fit, giving it a more 1990s grunge feel.

Prices No change.

MARSHALL ARTIST

  • Neil Maloney, Partner and creative director

Marshall Artist

Marshall Artist

Design The main concept for autumn 13 focuses on fusing different genres of British menswear. I was really inspired by opposite ends of the spectrum for this collection: on one hand it is focused on very wholesome, rustic, traditional fabrics like the speckled wool we’ve developed, and on the other it’s about clean, technical outerwear such as the laser-cut rain mac with bonded seams.

Colours Winter staples - navy, charcoal, black, stone and burgundy. Woodland tones and military-inspired palettes. Splashes of colour lighten the mood.

Fabrics The highlight is the outerwear component - dogtooth tweeds, speckled wools, beeswax canvases, vegetable tan leathers and heavy brushed cotton twills work well alongside a whole host of technical outerwear fabrics.

Silhouettes Blazers are cut in warm fabrics and well-tailored for a slim silhouette paired with roomier, comfortable outerwear.

Prices We’ve developed an entry price garment in each category: button-down shirts and sweats start at around £21.50 and basic jackets at around £30. We’ve introduced a 3x mark-up across the board.

EDEN PARK

  • Jennifer Le Cann, Collection manager

Eden Park

Eden Park

Design Our Club collection is inspired by city skylines seen through the trees of a park. The look is sharp, chic and effortless. Our Heritage capsule collection is influenced by vintage photographs and reinvents classic rugby pieces.

Colours For autumn 13, the colour range plays with a mix of mineral and floral tones. Deep hues like black and indigo are embraced by splashes of tonic colours like myrtille and sauterne. Classic greys are the palette’s spine.

Fabrics Cashmere, boiled wool and herringbone are played in, mixed and matched with flannels, heather jerseys and mini corduroy.

Silhouettes Preppy is the core of the brand, but the silhouettes keep evolving. For autumn 13, the collection features shawl-collar sport jackets, military-style coats and rugby-collar knitted sweaters with an emphasis on layering.

Prices The range of prices is in harmony with the styles, details and quality.

LYLE & SCOTT

  • Carolyn Massey, Head of design

Lyle and Scott

Lyle and Scott

Design Key individual themes include a ‘Scott’ tartan story, Fair Isle, repeat eagle embroidery and a technical story for braving the British weather. Our archive is a huge wealth of inspiration. From modern classics in the 1950s and 1960s, our golfing heritage and through to the casuals’ appropriation of the brand in the 1980s and 1990s.

Colours We’ve looked at good strong preppy tartans, as well as the pop highlights we’re so well known for.

Fabrics I wanted to focus on strong classic knitwear with a challenging, innovative offer. Similarly with wovens, it’s a balance of a great commercial offer, yet getting toward the more forward techniques in fabrication and construction.

Silhouettes The fit and silhouette have been addressed and modernised. We are well known for our slim fits; it was a case of sense checking the relevance of that. All styles have been reconsidered, even our iconic V-neck lambswool.

Prices Wholesale prices remain in line with spring 13.

MERC

  • Eunju MacMahon, Head of design

Merc

Merc

Design Merc’s Heritage Collection has been updated with two distinguished themes: Prohibition and Highlands. There is a lot of excitement around our melton pea coat, tweed blazer and smart parka. Our paisley shirts will also be popular.

Colours Deep greens, inky blues and shades of chocolate, which will be highlighted using warmer rusts and mustards.

Fabrics Outerwear will feature waxed cotton and wool tweed. Knitwear will include cashmere and angora mixed wool, as well as chunky knits with flecks. We’ve added corduroy and velvet trims on outerwear.

Silhouettes Merc offers a slim but comfortable fit.

Prices Through great sourcing efforts we are able to offer great pricing for autumn 13.

SKOPES

  • Nick McGlynn, Buyer

Skopes

Skopes

Design A broad suiting range will always be key to our offer. For autumn 13 our town and country theme will see increased options in a slimmer cut, while in our kingsizes theme we introduce new cloths at all prices.

Colours Colours and designs are classic city staples such as navy blue fine herringbone and charcoal birdseye, plus a beautiful black shadow effect and a dark grey multi-stripe.

Fabrics We’ve developed a Luxury Collection lining in high-definition viscose twill which really gives a sense of quality. The consumer really latched on to extra detailing last year such as linings, elbow patches and built-in pocket hankies, and we’ve concentrated on developing this theme.

Silhouettes Mix to fit has been an integral part of our sales growth, and it allows our retailers to fit nine out of 10 customers that walk through their door.

Prices Pricing seems to have stabilised.




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