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Autumn 13 preview - Womenswear

Vintage, monochrome, 1940s Paris and A Clockwork Orange are among the influences in next season’s ranges

YUMI

  • Clare Nepal, Creative director

Yumi

Yumi

Design One of our strongest key themes is called Fantasy Land. This trend lends itself perfectly to our Yumi customers, whose quirky individualism we always wish to encourage. Key commercial items include our oversized printed knitwear pieces and our classic lace party dresses. We like to pull influences from vintage icons whose style always seems to hold relevance. It’s not always about retro but echoing the best parts
of vintage in a classic way which transcends seasons.

Colours We’ve been attracted to earthy colours this season, rich greens and jewelled tones, accented highlights of bright kiwi, true red and metallics.

Fabrics As well as outerwear, we’ve also extended our knitwear range with fabulously soft lambswool and angora blends.

Silhouettes On outerwear our ladylike tulip coat is key as well as all our fitted indoor jackets. Oversized knitwear is a new area for us but is an area we strongly believe in for autumn 13, since it is so easy to throw a chunky cardigan over any smart dress for that dressed-down look.

Prices They’ve stayed the same.

By Malene Birger

  • Malene Birger, Founder and designer

By Malene Birger

By Malene Birger

Design This collection is all about getting to the core of By Malene Birger. It is the essence of my eternal inspirations. My love for men’s tailoring, interior decoration, foreign cultures and of course the ever-present black and white universe - a place where contrasts meet and the eternal symbol of the balance between the feminine and masculine - which is an important counterbalance in my work.

Colours Black and white are essential in this collection but also a symbol of the play between light and darkness, be it shades of white, a soft, light palette of pink, peony and peach paired with a dark plum accent, or black, greys and dark indigo with highlights of emerald, cobalt, pale blue and cream.

Fabrics A few key words would be: luxury, an upgrade on fabrics; modern wool qualities and new silk blends. We want character not stiffness - soft, comfortable surfaces.

Silhouettes This collection is all about balance - in colour, volume and proportion, all things that make the silhouette sharp and modern.

Prices No change.

RELIGION

Mette Gaughan, Creative head of womenswear

Religion

Religion

Design Our autumn 13 collection has been inspired by cult 1970s film A Clockwork Orange. Influence can be seen in the industrial feel that runs throughout the designs; we’ve interpreted the film’s iconic use of shadow into our signature dark shades, and tie-dye effects are what we are known for so it is a perfect fit.

Colours The colour palette is mostly monochromatic with dark, rich shades of avocado, blood red and majolica lifted by bright injections of fluoro paradise pink and hot coral.

Fabrics Both the double-sided wool and reverse leather that has been used in the patchwork design serve to create subtle colour and texture contrasts. Lace has been reworked the Religion way; netting gives the fabric a tougher feel, almost military, which can also be seen in the burnout detailing. Our new rubber printing technique
on the jerseys adds further texture.

Silhouettes Coats feature slimmer lines to previous seasons with the introduction of a cigarette pant adding to this feminine tailored story. Draping has been pared back and tops have been designed in the boxy shape mentioned earlier in line with the 1990s style reference.

Prices No change, but we have reintroduced our premium Black Label line to the womenswear collection.

ST JOHN

  • Greg Myler, Senior vice president of design

St John

St John

Design The collection this season was inspired by US artist Dan Flavin’s neon light installations.

Colours Shocking pink, vivid blue and neon yellow are among the bold colours for pre-fall 13.

Fabrics Our signature Milano knit, Venetian wool, double-face cashmere, tweed knit, jacquard, liquid satin and details of nappa leather and sequins.

Silhouettes Linear, strong and architectural. Colour blocks and mixed media are updated with texture and novelty.

Prices No change.

TRAPPER QUEENS

  • Klaudia Kosse, Head of production
  • Trapper Queens

    Trapper Queens

Design The theme of the new collection is Evolution of Leather. The design is minimalistic with well-balanced detailing such as accentuated collars, quilting, coloured trimmings, rivets, material mix and fur trimmings. The most commercial styles will be the rabbit fur and shearling styles.

Colours The Designer Selection range uses charismatic colours such as petrol, shades of red, purple and light grey. The Queens collection covers the classical spectrum from cool grey shades all the way to black.

Fabrics We use eye-catching features such as material mix, for example leather and real fur; leather and wool; leather and bouclé .

Silhouettes The silhouettes are commercial because themes like oversized, floor dusters etc don’t work well in leather.

Prices The core range is from €299 (£243) to €499 (£405).

MONTIQUE

  • Leisa French, Designer

Montique

Montique

Design We’ll see a return to the popular 1950s-style flared skirt and fitted corset in sumptuous jacquards in rich colours. Main inspirations were taken from the 1954 classic film Rear Window. Grace Kelly had an incredible wardrobe of superb tailoring and demure, dressy pieces. All the styling is designed to flatter the woman. Formal styles are offered with matching fur capes, jackets and boleros.

Colours Winter white with contrasts of jet black, and attention-grabbing blue hues. A sophisticated tone of mocha highlighted with metallic silvers and citrus.

Fabrics Intricate embroidered organzas with details of matt sequins. Heavy laces in vibrant hues. Metallic-foiled miniature-pleated stretch knits. It is all in the detail for autumn 13. There are a multitude of interesting fabric finishes.

Silhouettes These are either nipped-in waists with full A-line hems or body-skimming shifts.

Prices We’ve kept the same price structure.

Lavenham

  • Olivia Bassett, Designer

Lavenham

Lavenham

Design We’ve used street style imagery to inspire the autumn 13 looks. We continue with our classic styles but also add in younger-feeling pieces such as bomber jackets.

Colours Rich oranges, sparking off deep navy and a natural palette of brown, khaki, beige and tan. Also Lavenham Blue, a colour drenched in history from the wool mills of Lavenham.

Fabrics British wool in herringbone and shepherd check exclusively for Lavenham maintains the heritage feel, and we introduce a printed wool camouflage and leather trims. We’ve also used a technical fabric, a rubberised cotton. A mixture of Shetland wool alongside flat, smooth meltons completes the ‘very woolly’ collection.

Silhouettes The women’s designs finish at the hip - roomy enough to fit a chunky knit underneath.

Prices No change.

Twenty8twelve

  • Elsa Elphick, Creative director

Twenty8Twelve

Twenty8Twelve

Design André Zucca propaganda photographs of occupied Paris in the 1940s provide the backdrop for autumn 13. For the second part of the delivery we look to the Parisian 1940s sub-culture, Zazou. Typical was the zoot-style suit, which saw extreme oversized long-line jackets, baggy peg trousers and full skirts.

Colours Zucca used Agfacolor film to create the images; these are translated to become a fresh trans-seasonal palette of navy, whites, bright blues and propaganda pop red.

Fabrics Double-faced wool mimics a faded reverse side on coats and casual jackets, with an added trim of nepped blue and white mélange slub. Slub bouclé is joined in panels to ultra-stretch ceramica twill on tailoring. Mixed classic men’s striped shirting is complexly panelled on shirts and dresses, with felted knit jumpers adjoined to fluid silk panels to create assemblage dresses.

Silhouettes The 1940s aesthetic and silhouette is studied to identify key features, such as the angular shoulder sleeve seam, padded shoulder, and nipped-in waist.

Prices We’re holding prices steady.

AG Adriano Goldschmied

  • Sam Ku, Design director

AG Adriano Goldschmied

AG Adriano Goldschmied

Design Inspiration has been taken from New York in the 1980s and modern military.

Colours Oxblood/boysenberry, navy, mocha, military green, sulphur grey.

Fabrics AZB (Amaze Hyper Stretch Blue Denim), GOJ (Geo Jacquard) and Opulent Stretch Velvet are all new key fabrics. For autumn AG has also developed more coating, spray, and overdye techniques on denim that we’re excited about.

Silhouettes The Nikki and Beau are both boyfriend-inspired fits that we feel are big trends for the season. The Absolute Legging and the Supply Legging are both new fits and the legging continues to stay strong. Skinny isn’t going away,
but we’re seeing interest in slouchier silhouettes as well. We’re continuing to develop fabrics for skinny/legging fits that have an incredible amount of stretch, yet look like normal denim. Some of these fabrics stretch nearly 100%, and have amazing recovery so the fabric does not bag out.

Prices Costing has not been done yet, but the prices will remain more or less the same.

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