Interesting advances in trends and fabrics turned buyers’ heads in the German capital.
Despite concerns over Bread & Butter’s plan to add an extra two days next season to invite consumers, brands exhibiting at the autumn 14 edition were upbeat. “It has been as good as previous seasons,” said Ash Kumar, founder and creative director of men’s young fashion brand Native Youth. At the other Berlin shows, Premium was busy throughout, with buyers from Northeast designer retailer Jules B and Irish mini-chain Louis Copeland among the visitors. At Seek, Stefano Cardoni, director of Backstage Fashion Agency, said the contemporary fair had been “fantastic”. Streetwear show Bright’s new Brunnenstrasse location proved popular with brands and buyers, while the more mainstream Panorama, although crowded, was lacking in UK buyers according to Daniel Gottesdiener, director of womenswear label Oui.
“I went to Bread & Butter and Seek this season and thought they were both very good. I thought Seek was a bit bigger than last time, I like the venue and the open-plan layout. Sportswear seems to be a story for autumn 14, but it doesn’t really seem to have moved on from autumn 13 in regards to trends.”
Rob Adams, buyer at lifestyle retailer The Hambledon in Winchester
Buyers in Berlin said they were looking for fresh, interesting product, although Bread & Butter visitor Elvis Masterson, buyer at Philip Browne in Norwich, said that while there were a “few nice pieces, nothing totally jumped out at me”. However, Drapers noted several established brands moving their product on with better-quality fabrics and details such as fur and leather trims, or adding to their offer with capsule collections or new lines.
Bread & Butter
Chunk unveiled a new 22-piece limited-edition forward-order collection for autumn 14. It includes zip-through hoodies and T-shirts which wholesale from £11 and sweatshirts and smart polos for £16. The bike polo-inspired brand has also introduced a new theme into its collection of short-order graphic T-shirts, sweatshirts and hoodies, a tongue-in-cheek play on children’s books with slogans such as ‘My First Rave’ or ‘My First Space Cakes’.
The T-shirts in this collection wholesale for £11, sweatshirts for £20 and hoodies for £22.
020 7609 6758 www.chunkclothing.com
The brother brand of women’s label Louche, Hymn unveiled its first collection in Berlin, offering a short-order spring 14 range and forward orders for autumn 14. The spring collection features short-sleeved shirts in checks, polka dots and bandana prints, as well as waxed macs and chino shorts, while the autumn range includes Christmas jumpers, lumberjack shirts and a coat with a detachable inner gilet - the brand’s bestseller in Berlin. Wholesale prices start at €16 (£13.33) for a T-shirt to €85 (£70.80) for outerwear.
020 7091 1898 www.hymnlondon.com
- Billionaire Boys Club
The menswear brand, founded by rapper Pharrell Williams and BAPE founder Nigo in 2005, has evolved its fabrications to
a more premium level this season. Jersey quality is improved, sweaters are now fleece-lined and graphic-printed neck taping has been introduced across most pieces. This has not affected pricing, which starts at £19 for T-shirts, rising to £326 for autumn’s standout piece, a down-filled leather-trim parka with a coyote fur-trim hood. For spring 15, the brand is looking to grow its shirting offer and introduce jeans and smart trousers to increase the formal options.
020 7033 6718 www.bbcicecream.com
- La Cie Vantis
This unisex outdoor brand from France started in 2011 with a range of umbrellas and the motto ‘Live with rain!’ It has since evolved into T-shirts and knitwear too, with grey, teal, yellow and white among the colours this season. Fun graphics include slogans such as ‘Plyi’, which is phonetic for pluie, the French for rain. This season, the label has introduced on-trend coated nylon raincoats, all made in France. Wholesale prices range from €18.85 (£15.54) for T-shirts to €112 (£92.35) for raincoats. 00 33 06 58
12 44 05 www.lacievantis.com
- April 77
France’s April 77 has expanded its denim range for autumn 14, introducing ready-to-wear for the first time. The music-inspired denim label now offers a range of outerwear, shirts and tops alongside its skinny jeans, which all feature a plectrum holder.
For men, key pieces include printed shirts, blazers and bomber jackets, while women get faux-fur jackets and silver silk blouses.
Wholesale prices for jeans are about €48 (£39.99), T-shirts start at €20 (£16.66) and outerwear goes up to €250 (£208.32).
00 33 1 43 38 42 11 www.april77.fr
- Plastic Guns/PGC
Streetwear label Plastic Guns launched a more premium, mature sub-brand at Capsule called PGC. The 16-piece range has T-shirts (from £14.50) with graphic prints, a tie-dye option inspired by artist Jackson Pollock and a bold blue and white houndstooth style, as well as sweatshirts (from £26) and a hat. The short-order Plastic Guns range includes a standout pink flamingo and tropical-print T-shirt and the brand’s staple Pistol T-shirt. Wholesale prices for Plastic Guns from £11 for a T-shirt to £14 for sweats.
- Boys Don’t Cry
For its second season this Parisian menswear brand has introduced trousers to its 11-piece range, which previously only featured T-shirts. The woollen trousers come in two colours - navy and mustard - with a contrast burgundy trim, and wholesale for €54 (£44.96). Elsewhere, inkjet-print cotton and viscose blend T-shirts at €26 (£21.65) feature bold colours and are all made in France. A 3D-texture T-shirt in plain burgundy is also new this season, giving the range some more pared-back options in solid block colour.
00 33 06 03 08 35 73 www.boysdontcry.fr
London-based Nocturne debuted at Premium in a bid to build its presence in countries outside of the US, currently its biggest market. For autumn 14 it has cemented the revamped contemporary look it showed off for spring 14 after Catherine Milner joined as head of design from Paul Smith. The range is inspired by the Far East and features intricate embellishment - with dresses adorned with beads - printed geometric-pattern shirts and an eye-catching woven multicoloured jumper. Knitwear is new for this season. Wholesale prices from €70 (£58.30) for a polyester shirt to €315 (£262.43) for an embellished sequin dress.
07506 413191 www.nocturne.co.uk
Bread & Butter
- Aigle x Nigel Cabourn
Aigle’s autumn 14 collaboration with British outerwear specialist Nigel Cabourn launched in Berlin. The 10-piece men’s and women’s collection includes six garments, three pairs of boots and one bag, which incorporate waxed canvas, aged cotton, wool, leather, rubber and felt. Standout pieces include a heavy-duty cropped women’s fishing jacket with removable hood and a cotton and wool men’s donkey jacket in dark navy. Wholesale prices start at £118 for leather boots to between £260 and £450 for jackets.
01608 813860 www.aigle.com
On the stand with:
Claudia Büter, head of sales at German contemporary womenswear brand Gelco
Why have you chosen to show at Panorama?
It’s our first time here and we want to show the world what Gelco looks like in a branded, retail environment, as opposed to a rail full of samples in a showroom. We like the Mall [hall at Panorama], because it is showing concepts. For us it is important; we’re in a commercial section of the market, contemporary fashion for normal women. We’re not providing looks for teenagers, it is for women aged 40 or 50-plus.
How has the show been?
Very good. We’ve had customers from Germany, Austria, Ireland and Holland, but not many from the UK. We’re showing autumn 14 alongside our spring 14 collection here too and the reactions to that have been really positive.
What’s new in terms of product for autumn 14?
Imitation leather, studs, and the rock ‘n’ roll look, but always adapted in a feminine way. That’s very important for us, showing feminine and softness.
You’ve got your spring 14 collection here too. Is that because you tend to work more in season?
We have four collections a year and a delivery every month. The reason we’re also showing spring 14 is to show off the brand and how it should look in store now. The concept we work in with our customers is called consignment. It’s effectively like an unstaffed concession.
You get a basic stock level and bestsellers are replenished and pieces that aren’t selling are taken out.
Wholesale prices range from €13 (£10.84) for T-shirts, €20 (£16.66) for knitwear, €25 (£20.83) for trousers and €60 (£49.99) for jackets.
020 7580 3202 www.gelco.de
Highlights from Bright
Show to Watch
Streetwear favourites Hype and New Love Club debuted new additions to their collections at Bright, demonstrating how both the show and its brands have developed their offers. Hype (right) has introduced cut-and-sewn pieces for the first time for autumn 14, including printed shirts (£24), bombers (£37.50) and embroidered-sleeve sweatshirts (£37.50), which add a more premium feel to the range. Meanwhile, New Love Club has expanded into accessories and collaborated with bag brand East Street to produce a range of backpacks with prints to match its clothing (£10).