Drapers outlines the highlights from Panorama, Seek, Premium, Show & Order and Bright, all held across the German capital last week.
J Lindeberg all aflutter (Premium)
J Lindeberg separated out its women’s and men’s collection at the Premium trade show for the first time this season to capitalise on the fair’s strong reputation for womenswear. However, despite the physical separation, an overriding bird theme draws both collections together. On womenswear this manifests itself in a mauve feather-print silk jumpsuit (£69), a cream leather jacket with fringing along the arms to resemble wings (£138) and a full-length silk kaftan in nude with a white bird print (£61). The men’s collection features a standout casual bomber jacket with a monochrome feather print (£96).
+46 8 5068 5017
Trend watch: tribal takeaways
African-style tribal prints cropped up across a number of women’s brands, including German label Drykorn, where they were paired with black or white separates such as this statement cotton and linen knitted belted cardigan at around €150 (£106) wholesale and a black, brown and gold cropped cotton jacket (€130/£92). Belgian womenswear brand Essentiel Antwerp offers a boxy denim jacket with an African-inspired cotton lining (€75/£53), while contemporary label IQ Berlin’s spring collection features a vibrant orange, blue and gold knitted cotton sleeveless and belt-tied cardigan (€92/£66) and cropped jacket (€115/£83).
Fynch-Hatton goes decorative (Panorama)
Fynch-Hatton has a strong linen story comprising blues, white and earthy neutrals. This printed paisley shirt is typical of the season’s decorative approach to menswear. Wholesale prices for the range are £19 for plain shirts rising to £23 for print, while the pure linen knit is £38.
Superga steps up its offer (Premium)
Italian trainer brand Superga has ramped up the diversity of its offering this season, including a new unisex real python-skin green shoe with a vulcanised rubber sole (retailing at €350/£252), a rope platform trainer with a polyester floral-print upper (€85/£61) and an Italian silver laminated macramé upper featuring another floral design (€85/£61).
+39 011 2617 259
Trend watch: gilets go long
Long-line gilets were a strong trend across a number of womenswear brands in both suede and woven fabrics, including a goat leather version at Marc O’Polo Pure (€469.90/£333 retail), a nude raffia-weave style at J Lindeberg (£97) and another nude suede take at Nicole Farhi (£331).
MMX goes for print (Premium)
The diffusion line of German menswear brand Meyer, MMX has added vibrant patterned detail to its five-pocket and chino trouser range for spring 16, including floral buttons and linings, as well as camouflage linings and turn-ups. Wholesale prices range from £40-55 for both cotton and denim trousers and £49-85 for wool trousers.
+49 22 96 98120
Trend watch: dusty pinks
Soft and washed-out pinks were a feature for many brands across the Berlin shows, with highlights including this metallic pale pink and gold jacquard dress by Luisa Cerano (£132) these pink dungarees from contemporary women’s brand Ichi (€29.70/£21.30) and Yaya’s boxy knitted cotton jumper (€55/£39.50).
Stutterheim’s perfect pastels (Seek)
Swedish outerwear specialist Stutterheim added an injection of colour to its signature neutral shades by offering unisex rubberised cotton coats in a selection of apricot, pale yellow and mint (£155.92). Buyers also responded well to a printed cream and black houndstooth jacket in a straight, fitted cut (£191.35) based on the label’s original Stockholm fit.
Stutterheim has also introduced a roomier, A-line cut for spring 16. According to sales manager Robin Alexandrie, the new shape appeals to the label’s female customers who are looking for a cut to flatter their hips, while for men it offers an oversized, cape-style alternative (£80.80). Another standout spring 16 style is a grey bomber jacket with a contrast black fabric cuff and collar (£81.50).
+46 73 832 07 09
Marc Aurel goes for glamour (Panorama)
German mainstream womenswear brand Mark Aurel has been making the move from classic to contemporary, with a spring 16 collection that embodies subtle glamour and celebrates individuality. Fringing, embroidery, stud detailing and gentle prints present a relaxed, elegant 1970s vibe. Pictured here is a leopard-print faux suede fringe jacket priced at £120, a cream silk top with tassel detail at £80 and grey wide-leg trousers at £65.
+49 5241 945 187
VOX POP: Verena Malta, chief executive of Show & Order
“We want to build on our partnership with Sophie Guyot, known for working with Who’s Next in Paris, who created an area of 20 exclusive French collections and we hope to extend this further for next season. Buyers seem almost too careful at the moment, but if you take a risk and do it well, it can really work.”
Dr Martens embraces Scandi chic (Bright)
Dr Martens took a new direction for spring 16, showcasing a Scandinavian-inspired sneaker-style shoe in soft suede. Available in nude or black, this menswear-only style features Dr Martens’ signature chunky sole and matching colour laces (£42.50). The shoe label also went big on monochrome, a trend best shown in its minimalistic strappy unisex sandal, available in all-black or all-white with air-cushioned soles and a buckle-ankle strap (£48.90). A tassel-fronted slingback loafer in cherry red (£45.35) also seemed to strike a chord with buyers.
Trend watch: paint splashes
Paint splashes and strokes added a playful element across many womenswear collections, including green strokes featured on a silk and cotton-mix jumpsuit by Essentiel Antwerp (€87/£62) and a viscose pink kimono with black and grey splashes (€25/£18) by Ichi. Meanwhile, ethical shoe brand Toms used red and blue paint to customise nude canvas shoes live in front of buyers.
Arrogant Artists maps out its past (Seek)
Danish men’s streetwear brand Arrogant Artists paid homage to its roots by creating a camouflage based on the map of Denmark. Hidden within the camo design are small icons of foxes, stags and birds. “The choice of animals was a nod to our ancestors’ history as hunters,” explains brand co-founder Louise Stevnhoved, who chose the camouflage for a casual jacket with a press stud front (£45.35) and a statement anorak with a gold zip (£45.35). Both pieces are emblazoned with Arrogant Artists branded patches to give the camo a real street edge.
+45 22 469514/22 1411818
Print defines Ana Alcazar (Show & Order)
With a strong heritage in eye-catching prints, Munich-based Ana Alcazar provides a fresh update to dresses and coats with a modern take on hippy and ethnic styles. Key pieces are a striped coat priced at €89 (£64) and a denim short-sleeved dress with woven Aztec detail at €60 (£43).
+49 895 21180
PRODUCT FOCUS: Parajumpers (Premium)
At Premium, Italian outerwear specialist Parajumpers showed a white nylon shell over a simple green base that created a practical and stylish lightweight rain mac for spring 16, wholesaling at £119.
0207 012 1428
VOX POP: Bruce McLaren, owner of Dalziel Kingsize Menswear in Woking, Surrey
“I came to Panorama last season and wanted to come again – it is great to be able to walk around and really get a feel for the new collections with no pressure. It’s good to get my eye in and it’s also good to get some ideas for visuals and some of the shopfit design features that you can take away.”
Yaya has the feminine touch (Panorama)
Yaya has split its spring collection, called The Heroines, into three drops. The Individuals, which will be delivered in January, is defined by clean boxy shapes creating a tough feminine aesthetic, with plenty of metallics such as a gold Lurex boxy cardigan (€42/£30) and a reversible grey scuba unstructured coat (€42/£30). The Dreamers, released in February, has a 1970s vibe and is more girly and soft, including flared white jeans (€37/£26.50), and a waterfall real suede jacket with cross-stitch seams (€122/£87.50), while The Drifters for a March drop features a more relaxed silhouette resembling a nomadic gypsy-look and includes a dusty pink pair of dungarees (€34.40/£24.70).
PRODUCT FOCUS: The Hundreds (Bright)
Borrowing technology normally reserved for the outdoor sector, Californian streetwear label The Hundreds is offering a range of garments treated with a nano-tech finish, which when applied to cotton fabric creates a waterproof and stainproof surface. The application of this special treatment adds versatility to shirts, like this heavyweight blue and black buffalo check, which can also double as outerwear pieces (£35.44).
+1 213 663 1113
Blissed-out summer style from Liberty Garden (Show & Order)
LA-based Liberty Garden takes the bohemian look and infuses it with luxe details in silk, cotton, lace and embroidery. The feminine yet playful spring 16 collection includes gypsy-style bell-sleeve tops in lace and eco-suede and maxi dresses with crochet-detail back designs in muted shades. Tops are priced at €70 (£50) on average, while dresses come in between €90 (£64) and €140 (£100). For each item sold, Liberty Garden will donate one malaria treatment for someone in need through its Buy One Piece, Change One Life campaign.
+32 2521 0130
Fluid feeling from Laurél (Panorama)
Contemporary German womenswear brand Laurél focused on fluid lines, soft drape and simple construction for its spring 16 offering. Key pieces include a long line unstructured vest jacket (£110.96) and modern short-cut culottes, which are given an added fluid feel thanks to a diagonal drape of fabric from hip to hem (£64.43). Other standout looks include a double V-neck jumpsuit, available in red or black (£121.70), with a drawstring waist and slit-back detail, and a waffle fabric swing coat printed with an abstract floral pattern, which also sports satin detailing around the neck and hidden press studs (£150.33).
+49 89 99 888 333
Don’t miss all the latest videos from the Drapers team in Berlin, including a Draper Talks on the demise of Bread & Butter, an interview with Zalando’s vice president of womenswear Dalbir Bains about the future for Bread & Butter, an interview with Jörg Wichmann, founder of Panorama, and a snapshot of views from exhibitors taking part in the shows.
VOX POP: Thomas Herter, sales manager for Marc Cain, at Panorama
“We have no clothes at all on the stand. We are just showing our film about our new themes. We will take the orders in the showroom.”
VOX POP: Bob Fenner, north German agent for John Smedley
“We have seen very few people; this is not like the Bread & Butter we used to know. Retailers don’t come to shows like they used to – they look for brands on the internet. Next season we may not show anywhere because Berlin has too many shows now.”
VOX POP: Jörg Wichmann, founder of Panorama
“This has been the best show ever, attracting lots of visitors from more than 90 countries. In fact our exhibitors have been very excited by the number of international visitors. More than 50% of visitors come to Panorama from outside Germany. However, going forward we would like to grow both the number of international exhibitors and buyers still further.”
VOX POP: Alan Chapman, agent for Casa Moda
“I don’t understand why more UK buyers don’t come because there’s a real buzz about Panorama.”
Digel on the move (Panorama)
Now in its fifth year Digel Move - the diffusion line from German mainstream menswear brand Digel – stood out from the crowds at Panorama with a lightweight nylon parka in a rich, lustrous khaki, featuring wide front pockets, black press stud buttons and a generous hood (£71.59). The fabric interest continues on the inside of the parka, which incorporates a bright yellow and digitally printed cosmos style print mesh lining. This same mesh fabric is used to line Digel Move’s lightweight and breathable ‘Air’ suit (£85.91), which is made from a Teflon coated polyester, wool and Lycra cloth, as well as a black polyester and wool stretch blouson jacket (£80).
+49 (0)7452 604 115