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Copenhagen Fashion Week Autumn 14

Copenhagen’s gathering of Nordic labels warmed the hearts of buyers.

The mood across Copenhagen’s three trade shows was mixed, with Gallery and CIFF attracting international and UK buyers from the likes of Urban Outfitters, House of Fraser, Topman and Asos, while Vision had a poorer turnout. A representative from one Italian brand at Vision called it “a complete disappointment”.

Soren Mejer, group commercial director of Dutch womenswear brand house VeldhovenGroup, said the upbeat atmosphere at CIFF had showed “there’s light at the end of the tunnel now”. He added: “The mood is more optimistic among brands and buyers than we’ve seen for the last two years.”

In terms of product, Gallery and CIFF both demonstrated there are new discoveries to be made in Scandinavia, with Danish brands looking particularly strong, while larger names such as Gérard Darel, Swims and Part Two unveiled new concepts or lines.

The key trends continued to include oversized outerwear, leather and fur.

CIFF

  • Part Two

For the past few seasons Part Two has had a younger, more trend-led look, but that has changed for autumn 14 after customers requested a return to the more classic designs the brand is known for. Aimed at women aged 35-plus, the refresh looks strong, with coats and separates standing out. Wholesale prices range from DKr 180 (£19.96) for knits to DKr 900 (£99.80) for coats.

07852 205880 www.parttwo.com

  • Pieszak

Launched in 2007, Danish short-order brand Pieszak delivers monthly drops. It caught the eye at CIFF with its strong range of denim and knitwear - denim anchors the offer, with a vast range of styles available from boyfriend fit, to leather effect, dungarees and combat pockets. Key details across knitwear and outerwear, such as leather trims and zips, set the brand apart and the overall look epitomises the young, laid-back Scandinavian style. Wholesale prices from €20 (£16.46) for a T-shirt to €40 (£33) for jeans and €180 (£148) for coats.

00 45 88 33 88 55 www.pieszak.eu

  • Weekend

Unisex Danish streetwear brand Weekend launched for spring 14 and was immediately picked up by Urban Outfitters. The brand works on a quick turnaround with between four to six drops per year - it showed its May delivery at CIFF. Relaxed, youthful pieces such as T-shirts (wholesaling at £11), sweaters (£25) and bombers (£30) form the basis of the range, which has the theme of Scandinavian rock ‘n’ roll and ‘living for the weekend’. The first collection was all black, but greys and whites have been introduced for the 20-piece May drop.

00 45 26 11 26 46 www.weekendcph.com

  • NYDJ

US denim brand NYDJ (Not Your Daughter’s Jeans) has added ready-to-wear tops to its wholesale offer for the first time for autumn 14. Silky blouses, embellished jersey sweatshirts, smart blazer-like jackets and heavier wool outerwear are all designed to complement the core denim offer, which this season includes a new coated style wholesaling for €72 (£59) alongside various jean cuts, shorts and skirts. Wholesale prices for the new tops range start at €30 (£24) for a basic T-shirt, rising to €107 (£87) for a heavy wool jacket, all with a three-times mark-up.

020 732 36652 www.nydj.com

  • Panuu

Launched in 2006, Danish brand Panuu’s latest range has a street-meets-sportswear vibe, a key look for the young fashion market. Its use of logos has been reduced, making for a cleaner feel. Sporty styles take an ice hockey direction with printed mesh, spongy neoprene and quilted layers with appliqué. T-shirts wholesale at €13 (£10) and go up to about €40 (£33) for outerwear.

00 45 76 30 70 02 www.panuu.com

Gallery

  • Soulland

This Danish menswear brand heads into space for autumn 14, as its signature statement sweaters and shirts are embroidered and printed with planet patterns and space-age graphics.

A flecked wool jacket and trousers resemble a starry sky, while reflective stripes lend a sporty vibe to smart separates such as tailored trousers and utility jackets. Wholesale prices start at €20 (£16) for a printed T-shirt, €44 (£36) for a shirt, up to €216 (£178)for a trench coat in premium jacquard.

07740 112501 www.soulland.com

  • Baum und Pferdgarten

The broad-ranging collection from Baum und Pferdgarten will appeal to a wide market. There is a new focus on fabric and texture, with the introduction of alpaca yarns for super-soft knitwear, fuzzy mohair blends on outerwear and an intriguing heat-treated and embossed, lace-like fabric for dresses, skirts and tops. Wholesale prices range from €55 (£45) for a top to €180 (£148) for outerwear, with a 2.7 mark-up.

07861 785763 www.baumundpferdgarten.dk

  • SuperTrash

This womenswear brand ticks off all the trends for the new season. Outerwear was especially strong, with directional oversized silhouettes and fuzzy faux-shearling styles on offer next to more commercial biker-style jackets. Smart evening blazers proved popular, while leather lent a premium edge. Basics such as tops start at £12, rising to £104 for premium leather trousers.

00 31 20 764 0000 www.supertrash.com

  • Journal

Futuristic architecture inspired the autumn 14 range from Danish menswear brand Journal, which launched for autumn 13. The 40-piece collection is particularly inspired by the Paläon research centre in Schöningen, Germany. Shrunken images of the building work as prints across shirts, while 3D knits tie into the architectural theme. Boiled wool bombers and brushed denim pieces complete the offer, making for a strong collection. Wholesale prices range from €43 (£35.40) for shirts and €46 (£37.87) for trousers, up to €148 (£121.50) for a coat.

00 45 71 99 00 16 www.from-a-journal.com

  • Naja Lauf

Balancing an easy and relaxed wearability with a smart, dressy edge, Danish womenswear brand Naja Lauf mixes the super-feminine with an on-trend masculine look. Top buys this season include a fuzzy oversized grey coat and minimalist pink jacket featuring hidden closures, fluffy knit jumpers with washable leather elbow patches, metallic items such as an asymmetric wrap skirt and shiny pencil skirts, all alongside the brand’s signature 100% cashmere basic knits. Wholesale prices start at £20 for a T-shirt to £118 for an oversized mohair blend coat and the brand is represented by agents Winnie and Ed’s in the UK.

020 8964 0482 www.najalauf.com

  • Swims

Previously, Norwegian brand Swims - known for its galoshes - had only made its outerwear range available in Norway, Denmark and Sweden, but it is now open to all and a 12-piece autumn 14 outerwear collection was exhibited at Gallery. It features four styles for women and eight for men, including cropped quilted jackets and streamlined raincoats in a range of colours from bright yellow to teal and black. All products are 100% waterproof. Wholesale prices range from €96 (£71.81) for a quilted jacket to €192 (£157.62) for a down-filled parka.

00 45 47 47 24 10 97 www.swims.com

  • Lee

Lee celebrates its 125th anniversary in 2014 and is marking the occasion by reintroducing various archive styles into its autumn 14 range. Classic pieces such as men’s western shirts and jackets are refreshed in darker charcoal and indigo washes, while for those feeling braver, women’s retro overalls are another key piece. Also for women, a new super-skinny fit is added and flares have been dug out of the archive. Wholesale prices start at around £10 for T-shirts, rising to £28 for jeans and up to £50 for outerwear.

0845 600 8383 www.lee.com

Vision

  • Gérard Darel

Change is afoot at Gérard Darel, as the Paris brand’s autumn 14 collection has a younger aesthetic under new creative director Brigitte Comazzi Duval. Its branding has been changed to a sleek black and gold label, and silhouettes and fabrics updated. Dresses are looser with more emphasis on lightweight styles, and while tailored pieces still feature, raw edges create a less formal look. The bestsellers so far are oversized knits. Wholesale prices start from €54.40 (£44.66) for shorts, to €106.50 (£87.43) for dresses and €184.80 (£151.71) for coats.

00 33 1 55 80 55 20 www.gerarddarel.com

  • Peacock Blue

Deliveries can be as short as four weeks from Italian brand Peacock Blue’s collection of fun, embellished women’s basics. With more than 100 designs in rotation including sequined slogans, embroidered patterns and beaded panels, buyers can choose a design on a T-shirt, vest or knit for a short-order delivery in time for spring, but also get the same design on a parka on a forward-order basis to be delivered in time for autumn 14. Wholesale prices from €49 (£40.50) for basic knits to €200 (£165) for a parka.

00 49 221 250 898 www.peacockblue.it

  • 10 Feet

Dutch womenswear brand 10 Feet has continued its repositioning over the last three seasons, taking on a more sophisticated look for autumn 14. Top buys include a wide-striped fuzzy wool jacket, faux-fur coats and printed tops, which are given a more feminine and premium update when sprinkled with sequins and beads. Knitwear is also strong, with fluffy yarns in both chunky jumper shapes and long-line cardigans fulfilling the season’s knit trend. Wholesale prices range from €20 (£16) to €200 (£165) with a 2.7 mark-up.

00 31 20 447 1100 www.10feet.nl

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