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Copenhagen Fashion Week: Q&A

Lucy Favell, managing director and buyer at premium etailer Ursa Loves

What brands have you been most impressed by?

In terms of the staples for our website it’s Henrik Vibskov, Peter Jensen and Stine Goya.

What are you on the lookout for in Copenhagen?

Things that are distinct and have a signature that is personal to the designer.

How is your area of the market at the moment?

I think the middle market has been suffering because the high street has been copying it. But I think the brands are waking up to this and are starting to source locally and give that luxury you don’t get with ‘Made in China’ labels.

What trends have you spotted?

On menswear there’s a twist on preppy this year. There’s lots of detail and an emphasis on trims. There’s also lots of loud pattern and a play on textures. But I don’t think about trends when I buy, we’re not trying to be a trendsetter, we just offer new looks which may or may not be a trend.

What are your favourite trends?

Wood Wood, another key brand for us, is revisiting the 1990s rave culture with the use of bright colours and neoprene. I think there will be really good editorial coverage on that so I’ve bought into a few neoprene pieces for next season.

What do you think of spring 13 as a whole?

I’ve noticed a lot of the collections don’t feel very summery because people have lost a lot of money on shorts this year. T-shirts sell all year round but people in the UK are much more likely to buy trousers. There is also a lot more knitwear in the collections.

What other shows will you go to this season?

I did Capsule in Paris and went to Berlin Fashion Week.

It was really good to catch up with the labels I already work with but a lot of the collections weren’t ready so I only saw small capsule collections. I’ll only be at Gallery [in Copenhagen] for one day though.

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