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Copenhagen Fashion Week

Gallery, CPH Vision, CIFF Spring 11

Mads Nørgaard

Cotton jersey and sweatshirt are the key fabrics used by Mads Nørgaard. The label offers both men’s and women’s collections, with the latter the strongest in terms of design. Injections of fuchsia lift a womenswear collection dominated by polka dots, and block colour contrast sleeves add punch to striped blazers. Ribbed jersey vests are good quality. Mads Nørgaard owned an eponymous multi-brand indie in Copenhagen before launching its own wholesale label in 1995.

Prices: £10 to £217
Contact: 00 45 33 32 01 39
www.madsnorgaard.com

5Preview

Provocative and eye catching, T-shirt brand 5preview is inspired by propaganda posters and parodies some of fashion’s iconic logos. Marc Jacobs, Chanel and Comme des Garçons all get sent up via black-on-white or white-on-black prints. For spring 11, the brand has added more T-shirt logo designs, as well as short-sleeved T-shirt dresses and vests. New categories have been added in the form of offbeat moulded acrylic jewellery and soft bags.

Prices: £20 to £35
Contact: 00 46 72 21 03 655
www.5preview.com

Lysgaard

A contemporary hybrid which marries Cath Kidston-type styling with Darling-inspired product, Lysgaard is a feminine brand perfect for yummy mummies. Polka dots and folk-inspired lace trims on summer dresses predominate, and a palette of peppermint greens and nautical stripes add freshness to the collection. Sequin appliqués on lightweight knits create a strong transitional element, while pink tribal-print scarfs and cute cropped jackets also stand out.

Prices: £6 to £110
Contact: 01428 641884
www.bylysgaard.dk

Samsøe & Samsøe

Danish brand Samsøe & Samsøe also operates a chain of multi-brand stores across Denmark and Scandinavia under the same name. The stores sell other brands including 5preview (left),but its own brand is the best-seller and is also available at wholesale. The collection has a cool, contemporary design aesthetic and nails a few of the key spring 11 trends including 1980s-inspired mohair jumpers and bright geometric-print harem trousers.

Prices: £16 to £131
Contact: 00 45 35 37 11 66
www.samsoesamsoe.dk

Rika

Former fashion stylist Ulrika Lundgren set up Swedish brand Rika as a bag brand in 2005. It moved into clothing three years ago and UK stockists include The Shop at Bluebird in London. Star prints and tough leather jackets and bags are the signature look, but for spring 11 romantic sheer blouses and ditsy floral prints create a feminine feel. Rika also backs 1980s-inspired mohair knits.

Prices: £33 to £74
Contact: 00 31 20 73 70 279
www.rikaint.com

2Or + byYat

Aside from its peculiar name, this brand could have commercial potential with contemporary womenswear indies in the UK. Feminine draping and intelligent pattern cutting are key to the collection and give the brand a creative yet functional aesthetic. Feather-trimmed, long-line vest tops and loose cotton floral blouses tied at the midriff stand out. The brand has no UK stockists as yet.

Prices: £16 to £245
Contact: 00 35 44 05 22 94 65
www.2orplus.com

Back by Ann-Sofie Back

Perhaps Back by Ann-Sofie Back’s strongest USP - other than its innovative designs - is its chunky black Back logo. The black-on-white text will stand out in any store, as will its intriguing clothing. The label plays with interesting fabrics to create a romantic floral-print georgette blouse, a viscose dress run through with sparkling threads and a poplin poncho. Body-con jersey dresses also make a statement.

Prices: £16 to £100
Contact: 00 46 84 03 90 148
www.annsofieback.com

A Question of

Another standout black-on-white printed T-shirt brand is A Question Of. One of the few examples of ethical fashion in the market today that actually has commercial potential and real fashionability, the brand is already sold in the UK via etailer Asos and department store Liberty. It is on the hunt for more UK stockists for its Tanzanian-made, sustainable cotton short-order printed T-shirts. A new print is added to the collection each month.

Prices: £27 to £32
Contact: 00 45 31 32 23 22
www.aquestionof.dk

Billy and I

Now in its second year, Billy and I exhibited outside its native Sweden for the first time at Gallery this season. Almost every garment has an intentionally imperfect finish, with raw-edged silks and satins giving tops and camisoles a beautiful tactile quality while silk-spun short shorts inject a youthful edge. A pretty peach silk jacket and short suit are perfect transitional day to evening wear, while a muted sea blue cotton version is more casual.

Prices: £16 to £122
Contact: 00 46 73 94 43 621
www.billyandi.com

Phobia

Owned by Danish clothing giant CNS Group, Phobia started life a year-and-a-half ago as a short-order brand. However, a lack of take up from stockists saw the brand revert to a forward-order model this season. The cuts and silhouettes are highly commercial, with good examples of surefire spring 11 hits such as slim-fit tregging cargo pants and sheer blouses. The colour palette hinges on khaki, emerald green and white.

Prices: £12 to £82
Contact: 00 45 76 32 52 00
www.phobia-fab.com

Bolongaro Trevor

The brand founded by All Saints creators Kait Bolongaro and Stuart Trevor serves up possibly its strongest collection to date for spring 11, including Alexander McQueen-inspired reptile-print silk dresses in khaki, and a print inspired by forest animals is employed on harem trousers and blouson jackets. A 1950s feel comes through via a polka-dot dress with ruffle detail, and a pillarbox red body-con jersey dress catches the eye.

Prices: £16 to £160
Contact: 020 7502 5502
www.bolongarotrevor.com

Best Behavior

Sold by Maverick Agency in the UK, Danish brand Best Behavior is inspired by the bright colours of South America, with grass green, coral and peach the key shades. Loose-fit boyfriend blouses stand out while harem trousers - a style long backed by Best Behavior and the Danish market - is a major look, with UK buyers buying into the silhouette for spring 11. Cropped jackets with paper plane-like front folds add structure.

Prices: £18 to £55
Contact: 020 7739 6002
www.bestbehavior.dk

American Retro

French brand American Retro was one of the most on-trend brands at Gallery. Peach and coral shades are key for spring 11, as are ditsy floral prints on a cap-sleeved jumpsuit with a V-neck. A jersey T-shirt with raw edges and bandana-print neck panelling looks unique, as does a punched suede, A-line pink dress with tassels. Knitwear comes in tight weaves with brown suede elbow patches and loose cobweb weaves.

Prices: £20 to £237
Contact: 00 45 33 91 01 15
www.americanretro.fr

Religion

Although Drapers viewed Religion’s collection at Bread & Butter Berlin this season, under the lights of Gallery it took on a more directional look. For spring 11, explosion-like embellishment on shoulders stands out as silver frosting with spikes add toughness to bubble party dresses. Florals are given a darker edge with the use of dead carnation prints on dresses and loose boyfriend shirts, while a cobweb-knit scarf attached to a peach T-shirt offers the ultimate in draping.

Prices: £18 to £100
Contact: 07710 211745
www.religionclothing.co.uk

Edith & Ella

Founded in 2004, this Danish brand’s spring 11 range is sophisticated and feminine and serves up beige trench coats, a floral-print cap-sleeved jumpsuit, a chambray apron-style dress, and pleat-top trousers in sand-washed linen which play with the harem silhouette. The brand has found success with indies in the Netherlands, Belgium and France, and is looking to replicate that in the UK. IT would be a commercial addition to the shopfloor of a contemporary indie.

Prices: £35 to £199
Contact: 00 45 33 21 42 32
www.edith-ella.com

Epoque

Epoque is the sister brand to Edith & Ella, and is equally compelling but for different reasons. The brand was launched to offer indies an edgier and more directional alternative to Edith & Ella and is cleaner in its aesthetic and more ambitious in its design. High-waisted silk rose pink shorts stand out and are styled with a black lace body, while a leather tasselled skirt and biker jacket with fringing detail add a rock ‘n’ roll element.

Prices: £35 to £250
Contact: 00 45 33 21 42 32
www.edith-ella.com

Morphe

Drapers first came across Morphe at Barcelona trade show The Brandery last year, and the brand showed at Gallery for the first time this season. The collection has moved on for spring 11 and marble-print silks are employed on light summer dresses, while other dress styles tap into the layering trend. Morphe’s signature silk-covered aluminium buttons still feature. Prices have risen 10% against last season due to rising import costs and currency fluctuations.

Prices: £106 to £205
Contact: 020 8908 0238

Bøgelund-Jensen

Designer Signe Bøgelund-Jensen worked under John Galliano as a haute couturier at Christian Dior and launched her own label in 2006. It is sold in New York, Frankfurt and Amsterdam and is targeting premium UK indies for spring 11. The designer’s sculptural handwriting shows through on structured puff-sleeve dresses and sharp tailored jackets. The spring 11 collection focuses on rigid shapes and structures.

Prices: £80 to £400
Contact: 00 45 21 70 88 00
www.bogelund-jensen.com

Cacharel

With a new design team now in its third season, Cacharel has firmly found its footing for spring 11. This collection could well see the brand return to the heady heights of success it experienced in 2005. A beautifully made selection of all-in-one short suits in nude and chartreuse, utilitarian-inspired royal blue dresses with drawstring waists and floor-sweeping fuchsia maxi dresses stand out.

Prices: on application
Contact: 020 7352 0002
www.cacharel.com

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