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Copenhagen Spring 09

Rest in peace the dress was the refrain in Copenhagen as directional brands focused on selling separates for spring 09.

With tops and bottoms the focus for most collections it was the humble trouser that took centre stage with the Danes maintaining their confidence in the quirky by placing the harem pant centre stage. Almost every Scandinavian brand at Gallery featured at least one version. Looks ranged from the low hanging crotch pant which cut off with wrinkly scrunches of jersey at just above mid calf to ones with a full length draped leg pulled in at the ankles to form that distinctive belly dancer look. Fabrics ranged from simple draped cotton viscose jersey to silk jersey. On the catwalk this garment was teamed with tucked in blouses or long fluid draped tops.

Harem pants are not an easy look to pull off and the genes that blessed Danish women with a propensity for long legs may give them an advantage over other less fortunate European nations so the more practical and commercially minded Danish brands had offered a slightly easier to wear jodhpur style or pegged trouser as alternatives.

Elsewhere elements of the harem pant were put to use in all-in-one jumpsuits with brands featuring full length and cropped versions. This trend was also taken up by more directional younger mainstream labels that mostly stuck to a more utilitarian look via denim boiler suits.

 The 1980s trend for oversized mannish jackets  –think Bananarama – was taken for a spin by many brands that teamed them with flowing or draped short silky dresses to femme them up.

 Tops were either long length draped and fluid or squarer simple tabards that end at mid thigh and could be belted to accentuate the waist. More mainstream or contemporary brands aimed at the 30 plus market had taken to that square boxy shape in tops but softened it by using linen mixes, silks and cheesecloth and elasticating waists and adding kimono style sleeves.

There was plenty of colour on offer in collections with coral tones the first choice for most brands as it lifted both grey and black although there was also plenty of hot pinks and deep royal blues as well as a slight hangover of purple from autumn sometimes toned down to lighter washed out lilacs.

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