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Copenhagen

Laura Weir

Draped silhouettes and a dark palette were typical of the womenswear on show at Copenhagen Fashion Week, while the heritage trend kept its grip on menswear

The autumn 11 line-up at Gallery, the directional jewel in Copenhagen Fashion Week’s crown, felt rather samey this season as menswear brands continued to push the highly commercial heritage trend. Buyers are bemoaning the fact heritage is everywhere, but according to brands, none of them are actually sticking their heads above the parapet and asking for anything different.

As for womenswear, Scandinavian brands seemed to do an about-turn from spring 11’s super-inspiring and exciting selection of product to a more sober and signature offering for autumn 11 of draped silhouettes and a dark palette.

However, there was a little newness to raise the pulse rates of buyers in the Gallery halls. Tobacco shades pushed through into almost every brand’s collection, tapping into the 1970s story that originated for spring 11. Eye-catching panels of clashing fabrics on garments offered a fresh take on the use of leather, velvet, silks and chiffon. Knits were either bright and bubbly or fluffy and soft.

At contemporary exhibition CPH Vision, womenswear brands pushed their own individual trend agendas, making for an eclectic mix. Meanwhile, over at mainstream show Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF), the number of visitors from non-Nordic countries increased by 5% against the same edition last year.

There was plenty of inspiration for those willing to seek it out on the streets of Copenhagen, with stores such as Storm on St Regnegade presenting premium labels with a streetwear-style punch, and the small but perfectly formed Wardrobe 19 on Larsbjørnsstræde 19 flying the flag for Scandinavian menswear.

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