Jacket Required was a happy hunting ground for the latest menswear looks.
Neither rainstorms nor transport issues deterred buyers from visiting the latest edition of Jacket Required at new location the Old Truman Brewery in east London on February 5-6.
“It’s a very authentic show,” said Michele Malenotti, marketing and business expansion director of Matchless London, which was showing at Jacket Required for the first time after launching for autumn 13. “We’ve seen mostly local buyers, but from as far as Scotland and Ireland.”
Stefano Cardoni, director of agency Index London, which represents brands including Baracuta and Spiewak, said: “People are here genuinely looking, it’s a positive atmosphere and the location is much better. Most of the key UK independents have been here, as well as multiples.”
This season was particularly notable for the number of new brands that had been attracted to the show, proving that despite the menswear buying season being well under way, there are always opportunities to spot something fresh.
Danish footwear label Garment Project launched in its homeland for autumn 13 and debuts in the UK for autumn 14. The men’s shoe range, created by a former Nike designer, focuses on classic styles with signature Scandi sleekness, featuring clean lines and a pared-back aesthetic that blends smart and casual. A capsule clothing range includes shirts, jumpers and T-shirts in indigo, black, white and grey, with some featuring prints of polka dots, florals and sharks.
Represented by Sewn Agency,wholesale prices range from £36 to £64 for footwear and £20 to £40 for clothing.
020 3603 9253 www.garmentproject.com
The debut 18-piece collection from Leicester-based Edmund Hillary aims to evoke the spirit of the legendary mountaineer’s Everest expedition but with a modern twist, so key pieces such as over-the-head smocks are brought up to date with structured and slimmer silhouettes. Outerwear is the focal point, with Teflon-coated hunting jackets and down-filled parkas, although merino knitwear, which comes in cardigan, jumper and roll-neck styles, completes the range, which is manufactured in the UK. Represented by The Gallery Agency, wholesale prices from £46 for knits to £222 for parkas.
020 7636 6088 www.edmundhillary.com
Denim is Everything
Former Replay boss and Denham managing director Terry Bates’ new label, Denim is Everything, offers a full 70-piece range for autumn 14, its first full wholesale collection. Aimed at indie retailers, the jeans are designed with the average British male body shape in mind, so are slightly looser high on the leg for a more forgiving fitted look. The tailored aesthetic continues with herringbone sb blazers and shirts, while jersey sweatshirts and printed T-shirts are more casual options.
Wholesale prices range from £12 for T-shirts to £76 for outerwear.
020 7636 6088 www.denimiseverything.com
In time for its 110th anniversary this year, Spiewak has relaunched its consumer outerwear lines after a four-year hiatus.
The collection is split into a mainline for men and women and a premium range, Golden Fleece, for men only. Highlights from Golden Fleece include an MA1 jacket (wholesaling at £144) made from dead stock 40-year-old fabric, of which only 600 have been made, as well as parkas and jackets designed with Spiewak’s exclusive unissued military woodland camouflage. Wholesale prices range go up to £769 for a top-end parka with racoon fur-trim hood. In the mainline wholesale prices range from £58 for a bomber to £525 for parkas, with details such as detachable inner linings, pad pockets and faux fur trims. The brand is represented by agency Index London.
020 7636 7058 www.spiewak1904.com
New to the UK this season, German outerwear label G-Lab’s autumn 14 collection fuses a biking aesthetic
with a smart urban twist. Historically, G-Lab was a clothing design agency for the likes of Harley Davidson, before launching its own jacket label 10 years ago. It focuses on workmanship, with taped seams and three-layered constructions .The range is made up of 13 jacket styles. Represented by The Gallery Agency, wholesale prices range from £140 to £250.
020 7636 6088 www.g-lab.com
Todd Snyder + Champion
An initial collaboration between former J Crew designer Todd Snyder and classic sportswear label Champion for autumn 13 has developed into a full label for autumn 14, with Snyder as creative director. The collection features classic jersey hoodies, T-shirts and sweatpants, as well as some more formal pieces. The brand is aiming for a premium positioning in the UK market and was targeting independents at Jacket Required. Represented by agent Polly King & Co, wholesale prices range from £14.81 for T-shirts to £35 for sweatshirts and £50 for reverse-weave jumpers.
020 3747 9530 www.toddsnyder.com
‘Sanders footwear looks great this season and really stood out here. Hentsch Man was lovely too and offers some really great price points for the quality of cut and fabrication’
- Daniel Peters, buyer at etailer BBS Clothing Clothing
‘I placed orders on Champion + Todd Snyder and Stighlorgan accessories, which are beautiful. Other favourites have been Parka, Veja and Pointer’
Stephen Monaghan, buyer at etailer The Great Divide
‘I’ve liked Farah Vintage this season, especially the tops. They’re good value for money and show attention to detail. The block has been changed this season so the tops are fitted, but not too fitted’
- Alan Hodgkiss, managing director at men’s young fashion chain Scotts
‘We already buy 15 brands that exhibit here, so it’s been great to catch up with them. It’s been a really strong show, much better in this bigger venue and there’s been such a buzz about it, which has made a great atmosphere. really liked Beeline and Juniper Ridge’
- Tim Williams, assistant buyer at Asos